SKIN AGING HANDBOOK An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry and Product Development Edited by Nava Dayan Norwich, NY, USA Copyright © 2008 by William Andrew Inc. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or me- chanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. ISBN: 978-0-8155-1584-5 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Skin aging handbook : an integrated approach to biochemistry and product development / edited by Nava Dayan. p. ; cm. -- (Personal care and cosmetic technology) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-8155-1584-5 (alk. paper) 1. Skin--Aging. 2. Cosmetics. 3. Dermatologic agents. 4. Cosmetic industry. 5. Dermatologic agents industry. I. Dayan, Nava. II. Series. [DNLM: 1. Skin Physiology--drug effects. 2. Aging--drug effects. 3. Chemistry, Pharmaceutical. 4. Cosmetics--economics. 5. Cosmetics--pharmacology. 6. Cosmetics--therapeutic use. WR 102 S62715 2008] QP88.5.S553 2008 612.7’9--dc22 2008009757 Printed in the United States of America This book is printed on acid-free paper. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published by: William Andrew Inc. 13 Eaton Avenue Norwich, NY 13815 1-800-932-7045 www.williamandrew.com Cover Design by Russell Richardson ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY This book has been printed digitally because this process does not use any plates, ink, chemicals, or press solutions that are harmful to the environment. The paper used in this book has a 30% recycled content. NOTICE To the best of our knowledge the information in this publication is accurate; however the Publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy or completeness of, or consequences arising from, such information. This book is intended for informational purposes only. Mention of trade names or commercial products does not constitute endorsement or recommendation for their use by the Publisher. Final determination of the suitability of any information or product for any use, and the manner of that use, is the sole responsibility of the user. Anyone intending to rely upon any recommendation of materials or procedures mentioned in this publication should be independently satisfied as to such suitability, and must meet all applicable safety and health standards. This book is a memorial to my grandparents Shifra and Yehoshua Hershman, who raised me. They lost their families who were killed by the Nazis during World War II. They will never age. God bless their souls. Nava Dayan Contents Contributors ix Preface xv Part 1 Sociological Implications, Market View and IT Frontiers 1 1 Aging Skin in Sociocultural Perspective 3 Robert L. Rubinstein and Sarah Canham 2 Market Evolution of Topical Anti-aging Treatments 15 Ni’Kita Wilson 3 Computer-Based Age Progression Methodologies 35 Andreas Lanitis Part 2 Biochemical, Pharmacological, and Ethnicity Aspects 53 4 Structural and Biochemical Changes in Aging Skin and Their Impact on Skin Permeability Barrier 55 Rashmi Thakur, Priya Batheja, Diksha Kaushik, and Bozena Michniak 5 Changes in Epidermal Lipids and Sebum Secretion with Aging 91 Philip W. Wertz 6 Skin Disorders of Inflammation and Immune Suppression in Young and Elder: A Special Role for Mast Cells 105 Moran Elishmereni and Francesca Levi-Schaffer 7 Cellular Senescence and Skin Aging 129 Elena Dellambra and Goberdhan P. Dimri 8 Prevention and Treatment of Aging Skin with Topical Antioxidants 149 Karen E. Burke vii viii Contents 9 Skin Aging in the Asian Population 177 Helen Knaggs Part 3 Product Development 203 10 The Use of Natural Compounds and Botanicals in the Development of Anti-Aging Skin Care Products 205 Cindy K. Angerhofer, Daniel Maes, and Paolo U. Giacomoni 11 Approaches to the Development of Cosmetic Products to Counter the Effects of Skin Aging 265 Gopinathan K. Menon, Laurence Dryer, and Robert Kalafsky 12 The Design and Development of Anti-Aging Formulations 291 Domnica Cernasov Part 4 Testing Methodologies 327 13 In Vitro Methods to Screen Materials for Anti-aging Effects 329 Robert W. Holtz 14 Clinical Testing to Uphold an Anti-aging Claim 363 Toni Miller Part 5 Regulatory Aspects 391 15 Cosmetic Anti-aging Formulations—International Regulatory Aspects 393 Azalea P. Rosholt 16 Strategic Regulatory Planning—Key to Success in Anti-aging Cosmetic Product Development 409 Wen Schroeder Glossary 455 Index 483 Contributors Cindy K. Angerhofer Aveda Corporation 4000 Pheasant Ridge Dr. Minneapolis, MN 55449 USA Priya Batheja Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey Piscataway, NJ 08854 USA Karen E. Burke Department of Dermatology Mount Sinai Medical Center One Gustave Levy Place New York, NY 10025 USA Sarah Canham Doctoral Program in Gerontology University of Maryland, Baltimore County 1000 Hilltop Circle Baltimore, MD 21250 USA Domnica Cernasov Coty Inc. Morris Plains, NJ 07950 USA ix x Contributors Elena Dellambra Laboratory of Tissue Engineering and Cutaneous Physiopathology I.D.I.-IRCCS Istituto Dermopatico dell’Immacolata Via dei Castelli Romani, 83/85 Pomezia (Roma) 00040 Italy Goberdhan P. Dimri Division of Cancer Biology and Department of Medicine ENH Research Institute, and Robert H. Lurie Comprehensive Cancer Center Feinberg School of Medicine Northwestern University 1001 University Place Evanston, IL 60201 USA Laurence Dryer As of January 2008: BASF Beauty Care Solutions, Inc. 50 Health Sciences Drive Stony Brook, NY 11790 USA Moran Elishmereni Department of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, School of Pharmacy Faculty of Medicine The Hebrew University of Jerusalem POB 12065 Jerusalem 91120 Israel Paolo U. Giacomoni The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. Melville, NY 11747 USA Robert W. Holtz Director of Laboratory Studies BioInnovation Laboratories, Inc. 7220 W. Jefferson Ave., STE 112 Lakewood, CO 80235 USA Contributors xi Robert Kalafsky Avon Products, Inc. Avon Place Suffern, NY 10901 USA Diksha Kaushik Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey Piscataway, NJ 08854 USA Helen Knaggs Nu Skin 75W Center Street Provo, UTAH 84601 USA Andreas Lanitis Department of Multimedia and Graphic Arts Faculty of Communication and Applied Arts Cyprus University of Technology P.O. Box 50329, 3036 Lemesos, Cyprus Francesca Levi-Schaffer Department of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, School of Pharmacy Faculty of Medicine The Hebrew University of Jerusalem POB 12065 Jerusalem 91120 Israel Daniel Maes The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. Melville, NY 11747 USA xii Contributors Gopinathan K. Menon As of October 2007: Global R & D, ISP Corporation Wayne, NJ 07470 USA Bozena Michniak Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey Piscataway, NJ 08854 USA Toni Miller Essex Testing Clinic Inc. 799 Bloomfi eld Ave Verona, NJ 07044 USA Azalea P. Rosholt The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association Washington, DC 20036 USA Robert L. Rubinstein Department of Sociology and Anthropology Erickson School of Aging Studies University of Maryland, Baltimore County 1000 Hilltop Circle Baltimore, MD 21250 USA Wen Schroeder SEKI Cosmeticals 232 E. Carrington Lane Appleton, WI 54913 USA Rashmi Thakur Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey Piscataway, NJ 08854 USA Contributors xiii Philip W. Wertz N450 DSB, Dows Institute University of Iowa Iowa City, IA 52242 USA Ni’Kita Wilson Cosmetech Laboratories, Inc. 39, Plymouth Street, Suite 4 Fairfi eld, NJ 07004 USA Preface Stress, Emotions and Skin Aging The way we perceive or value a person’s physical appearance is very complicated and contains numerous factors such as sociological back- ground, age, personal experience and preferences. It also changes through- out our lifetime as does the weight we attribute to it in our preferential judgment. I remember that as a child I had two very close friends that were sisters. While in the view of many others they were not physically attractive, in my mind they were the most beautiful people I knew. This is because of their sincere care and affection. On the other hand, I had a very close family member that was only centered within her very own issues. Every few years she would perform a different type of plastic surgery, but no matter what the result was, I still never thought of her as a nice or pretty person. In one of the bible books, the book of Kohelet (Ecclesiastes), which is a type of personal biography, the author says: “hevel hachen vesheker hayofi ” meaning (from the Hebrew): charm is deceptive and beauty is vain. In essence, physical appearance may be misleading and illusory. Personally, I know that in time perspective, the way I remember people is not by their appearance, nor by their words, or what they have given or taken from me. In essence, I think and remember them by the way they made me feel. In one of the books I read, I came across an interesting differentiation between public and medical journalism. While the daily public news wishes to bring the shocking, devastating news, medical journals will only rarely publish “bad” unexpected data. If a study failed to prove a hypothesis it will most likely not be published. In this sense, this book is staged beyond pure science–it provides cautious optimism combined with reality. The protestant theologist Reinhold Niebuhr is communicating to God asking him the following: “grant me the courage to change the things I can change, the serenity to accept the things I cannot change and the wisdom to know the difference.” xv xvi Preface I am hoping that this book will provide the reader with a few tools to understand what can or cannot be changed in the process of skin aging and therefore will ease the acceptance of the unchangeable and encourage the further exploring of the processes that may be controlled. In our society there are great social advantages to being attractive. Common stereotypes of elderly people depict them as physically unattrac- tive and sexually undesirable (Koblenzer, 1996).