Papua New Guinea Huon Peninsula Extension I 25th to 30th June 2019 (6 days) Trip Report Huon Astrapia by Holger Teichmann Trip report compiled by Tour Leader: Adam Walleyn Rockjumper Birding Tours www.rockjumperbirding.com Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea Huon Extension I 2019 2 Tour in Detail Our group met up in Port Moresby for the late morning flight to Lae’s Nadzab airport. Upon arrival, we transferred to our comfortable hotel on the outskirts of Lae city. A walk around the expansive grounds turned up some 23 species to get our lists well underway, including Orange-bellied and Pink-spotted Fruit Dove (the latter of the distinct and range-restricted plumbeicollis race), Torresian Imperial Pigeon, Eclectus Parrot, and Yellow-faced Myna, not to mention perhaps 1,000 Spectacled Flying Foxes creating quite the sight and sound! Early the next morning we were back at Nadzab airport, where a quick scan of the airfield produced some Horsfield’s Bush Larks and also excellent looks at a male Papuan Harrier that did a close flyby being bombarded by numerous Masked Lapwings! We were soon boarding our charter flight Pink-spotted Fruit Doves by Holger Teichmann over the rugged Huon mountains, although we quickly entered dense clouds and could see nothing of these impressive mountains. After some half an hour of flying through thick cloud on the plane’s GPS track, we suddenly descended and made an uphill landing at Kabwum airstrip! Our land cruiser was there, waiting for us, and after loading bags and ourselves onboard we made the bumpy drive up many switchbacks to reach the high ridge above Kabwum. We were extremely fortunate to be the first-ever group to arrive at the newly built Huon Birding Camp near Satop village. Here, we were greeted by Cheyne and also a fly-by Greater Cuckoo Dove. After dropping off our gear in our comfortable stand up tents and having a hot drink, we were itching to get birding and started off with some roadside birding in the mid-morning sunshine. We encountered a couple of small flocks and kicked off our lists with Brown- breasted Gerygone, Island Leaf Warbler, Papuan White-eye, Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Canary Flyrobin, Friendly Fantail and both Brown-backed and Regent Whistlers, while Mountain Swiftlets flew overhead. Entering some old-growth montane forest, the sweet song of Mottled Berryhunter was soon heard at close range and, we had a pair flying circles around us although never really settling down. A Mountain Kingfisher called loudly nearby but we could not locate it. We were then happily distracted by a female Huon Astrapia, our first of the Huon endemics. We returned to the camp with a good start under Regent Whistler by Holger Teichmann our belts and in time for a tasty lunch. For the afternoon, we headed along a narrow forest track where a pair of beautiful but shy Spotted Jewel Babblers were seen by some. Arriving at a forest clearing, we noticed there were several fruiting trees and set up for a couple hour’s vigil. A pair of Spangled Honeyeaters were on display for almost the whole time we were there, trying to guard the fruiting trees and showing extremely well. Huon Astrapia females Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Papua New Guinea Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea Huon Extension I 2019 3 regularly visited the fruiting trees, including prolonged eye-level views, but our collective breaths were taken away when the long-tailed male turned up and fed for ages just in front of us, an absolutely stunning sight. In the same tree a Mottled Berryhunter showed up and allowed exceptional viewing for some time. That was a good tree! Other species seen while we waited included Hooded Cuckooshrike, Amboyna Cuckoo Dove, quick flybys of Papuan and Yellow- billed Lorikeet, Red-collared Myzomela, Rufous-backed Honeyeater, a brief Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, Buff-faced Scrubwren, Black-breasted Boatbill, Mountain Peltops, Black and Dimorphic Fantail, Black Monarch and Blue-faced Parrotfinch. In short, it was an almost overwhelming pulse of birds! We had been contentedly standing around for more than an hour when a massive Pesquet’s Parrot suddenly flew a short distance from where he must have been hiding the whole time. It gave an incredible view before flying off and then, Pesquet’s Parrot by Holger Teichmann over the next half hour we had a loose flock of 7 of these endangered and spectacular parrots flying overhead, squawking loudly and occasionally landing to check us out before noisily flapping off again – absolutely amazing stuff. As the light started to fade, a pair of female Wahnes’s Parotia briefly visited one of the fruiting trees although, we certainly desired better views then we got and then, a scarce Madarasz’s Tiger Parrot showed pretty well as it clambered around a viny tree at times hanging upside down. We finally returned to camp at dark, having had a pretty amazing day and Cheyne had a nice dinner prepared for us. After dinner, we took a walk along the road and following a bit of speculative playback soon heard a Mountain Owlet Nightjar calling at close range that was quickly located for wonderful views, rounding off the day on a huge high. Leaving camp well before sunrise, we split up into two groups to visit two different purpose made blinds. Half of the group visited a MacGregor’s Bowerbird bower. Sadly, despite a patient wait the bird never came in. Black-breasted Boatbill by Holger Teichmann The other group had better luck. Even before reaching the hide a Greater Sooty Owl showed very well as it screeched down at us. We then waited inside the blind at a Wahnes’s Parotia dancing court. Viewing conditions were a bit tough as the surrounding foliage was so thick it was hard for everyone inside the blind to see all the birds but there were some excellent ones around! The incredible male Parotia did show itself low over the blind, although it never descended to the court itself. A male Greater Lophorina also showed over the blind and Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Papua New Guinea Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea Huon Extension I 2019 4 both Spotted Jewel Babbler and Forbes’s Forest Rail walked circles around the blind. At one stage the forest rail actually came almost inside the blind, although the foliage was so thick, we only noticed it as it scampered off. Both of the groups then rejoined at a large forest clearing. Huon Astrapias, again, came in and out showing very well and a male appeared here as well giving even better views than yesterday. When the sun hit its green throat and belly it would also cause the thin band of orange feathers to glow iridescence. Other birds noted in the clearing included Pesquet’s Parrot, Dusky Lory, Long-billed Honeyeater, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, and Tit Berrypecker. In the nearby forest a pair of Lesser Melampittas called at very close range although neither could be lured into view, save by Jim who walked inside the forest and got a good look. A bit of late morning roadside birding was productive as we had great looks at a pair of Blue-capped Ifrits and then a skulky MacGregor’s Bowerbird that kept in cover between low flights. We even found an active Canary Flyrobin by Magda Niedzialek nest of a Huon Astrapia! After lunch, we headed down the rough road to Gatop. En route, we paused for a pair of displaying Great Woodswallow and then had our first female Emperor Bird of Paradise fly across the road. A little lower down, we came upon a very active mixed flock of birds. Here we saw several female Emperors along with a male Growling Riflebird and a White-crowned Koel. Numerous species of smaller birds included Northern Fantail, Black-fronted White-eye, Black-headed Whistler, the newly split Sepik- Ramu Shrikethrush and a nice male Frilled Monarch. Interestingly Jim had a quick look at what was probably a male Ochre-collared Monarch as well, strange to see the two sister species within the same flock. Then a mist came in and swallowed up the view, so we carried on down the road. Further along a male Dwarf Koel was scoped for as long as we wanted and then we had to follow a short but slippery trail replete with a rather tricky stream crossing. This brought us to a lek site of Emperor Bird of Paradise, where after a Mountain Owlet-Nightjar by Holger Teichmann patient wait we spotted the staggering male displaying high up amongst some vines. It was a bit distant and partly concealed, nonetheless the scope views were still excellent as the male swung upside down with its white plumes splayed out. We had further views of females and also some Ornate Fruit Doves heading for a fruiting tree before we returned back to our vehicle and all the way up to camp to finish up a very long but productive day in the field! Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Papua New Guinea Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea Huon Extension I 2019 5 We headed out for a final full day of birding in the cloud forest. Off and on rain accompanied us as we made our way towards the clearing that had been so productive on our first afternoon. Between the heavier rain bouts, we recorded some decent bird activity and many of the same species as on our first visit. Spangled Honeyeaters and Huon Astrapias showed very well, and the Pesquet’s Parrots put on another memorable performance.
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