SOUTH AFRICA: THE SOUTHWESTERN CAPE & KRUGER AUGUST 17–SEPTEMBER 1, 2018 Leopard LEADER: PATRICK CARDWELL LIST COMPILED BY: PATRICK CARDWELL VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM SOUTH AFRICA: THE SOUTHWESTERN CAPE & KRUGER AUGUST 17–SEPTEMER 1, 2018 By Patrick Cardwell Our tour started in the historical gardens of the Alphen Hotel located in the heart of the Constantia Valley, with vineyards dating back to 1652 with the arrival of Jan van Riebeeck, the first Governor of the Cape. Surrounded by aging oak and poplar trees, this Heritage Site hotel is perfectly situated as a central point within the more rural environs of Cape Town, directly below the towering heights of Table Mountain and close to the internationally acclaimed botanical gardens of Kirstenbosch. DAY 1 A dramatic change in the prevailing weather pattern dictated a ‘switch’ between scheduled days in the itinerary to take advantage of a window of relatively calm sea conditions ahead of a cold front moving in across the Atlantic from the west. Our short drive to the harbor followed the old scenic road through the wine lands and over Constantia Nek to the picturesque and well-wooded valley of Hout (Wood) Bay, so named by the Dutch settlers for the abundance of old growth yellow wood trees that were heavily exploited during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Our skipper was on standby to welcome us on board a stable sport fishing boat with a wraparound gunnel, ideal for all-round pelagic seabird viewing and photographic opportunity in all directions. On the way out of the shelter of the harbor we encountered Cape Fur Seals sunning themselves on the mooring buoys in the company of Cape and White-breasted cormorants loafing about on their favored day roosts. Soon after leaving the shelter of the bay, the swell picked up noticeably, making for a ‘bumpy’ ride out to sea as the skipper negotiated his way across the incoming swells and around rafts of floating kelp ripped up by a cold front earlier in the week. Swift Terns, or Great Crested Terns as they are also known, were evident in number, consorting with feeding flocks of Hartlaub’s Gull, a cold-water species associated with the Atlantic, on the outer reefs. Soon afterwards, as we headed out to deeper water, our first true pelagic sighting of the day hove into view as a Sooty Shearwater crossed the bow on silvery wings in frenetic flight. This relatively common Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 South Africa: The Southwestern Cape & Kruger, 2018 shearwater is found throughout the southern seas with large breeding concentrations in New Zealand where the species is regarded as a traditional delicacy under the commercial descriptive of Mutton Bird. Hartlaub’s Gull By now wavering flight lines of Cape Cormorant and the occasional Cape Gannet were regular sightings as we headed out to warmer water along the current line, and soon thereafter the first of many White- chinned Petrels careened across the bow and swept up the wake for all to see the key identification features in excellent light. Our pelagic objective ahead of the approaching frontal system was to secure an ‘albatross’ sighting, if at all possible, for the iconic worth the albatross enjoys in poetry and literature dating back through the ages to the early seafaring days of exploration in the southern seas. Shy (White-capped) Albatross Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 South Africa: The Southwestern Cape & Kruger, 2018 In this we were not to be disappointed as the first of several Shy Albatross swept into view over our wake and around the boat in seemingly effortless flight so distinctive of these benign ocean wanderers. From this point on as we headed further out to sea, we were accompanied by an entourage of White- chinned Petrels to the current line as our intended ‘chumming’ destination in the absence of a working trawler or pole fishing boat. Chopped sardine floating back in the wake of the boat soon had the desired effect of creating an oil slick and with it increasing numbers of pelagic species including a Northern Giant Petrel, several Shy Albatrosses, and a mix of Sooty Shearwaters and White-chinned Petrels with Cape Gannet and Kelp Gull in attendance. White-chinned Petrel By now wind speeds were picking up, and we turned for home with a ‘bonus’ sighting of a Sunfish (Mola mola ), a truly bizarre looking fish in a class of its own, lolling about on the surface next to the boat. Soon thereafter another surprise encounter presented itself as a Bryde’s Whale, breached on several occasions for all to see the sickle-like dorsal fin as a distinctive identification feature. No sooner had we started our outboard motors for the final run back to harbour, when we were literally surrounded by a school of well over two hundred Dusky Dolphins, a relatively small and highly acrobatic dolphin that simply delights in ‘bow riding’ whenever a boat opportunity presents itself. True to form we enjoyed their antics around us for an extended period for the delight of all on board before heading back to calmer waters inside the bay. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 South Africa: The Southwestern Cape & Kruger, 2018 Pelagic trips are the marine equivalent of the classic safari ‘game’ drives in the bush where you are never quite sure what or when something new and unexpected will suddenly appear to make for a great and memorable occasion, as was the whale and dolphin encounter we all enjoyed… Dusky Dolphin With an extra few hours of daylight in hand, we decided to incorporate a whistle-stop tour of Cape Town into the afternoon’s program as a cultural experience before heading for the Milnerton Lagoon as our next birding destination. This tidal estuary supports a wide variety of water associated birds, and in this we were not to be disappointed, as the back-end of the afternoon provided scoped views of African Spoonbill, Long-tailed Cormorant, Grey Heron, Egyptian Goose, Cape Shoveller, Yellow-billed Duck, and Grey-hooded and Hartlaub’s gulls. Reedbeds held both Southern Masked and Cape weavers, as well Southern Red Bishop- all in resplendent breeding plumage. Here we encountered our first ‘warbler’ in the form of a pair of Le Vaillant’s Cisticola, displaying to one another. Other notables included Giant as well as Pied Kingfisher, Cape Spurfowl, and Blacksmith Lapwing. All in all, an amazing day across the bird sighting spectrum from albatross to reed warbler! DAY 2 Our day got off to an early start at gate opening time for the botanical gardens at Kirstenbosch. Rain the night before ignited bird activity. All around, birds were in conspicuous and vocal evidence in keeping with the austral Spring breeding cycle. Southern Double-collared Sunbirds in full nuptial plumage flitted about the flower beds in concert with Forest and Cape Canary. Cape Sugarbirds, one of the most sought- after endemics, with their resplendent long tails, dominated the stands of flowering protea and brightly colored pincushion, while Cape Spurfowl and Helmeted Guineafowl strutted their stuff on the open lawns in association with flocks of brightly colorful Swee Waxbills of diminutive proportions. Herbaceous borders were home to Olive Thrush, Cape Robin Chat, Cape Bulbul, and Cape White-eye, while an eye to the sky picked up on African Goshawk displaying above the more wooded section of the gardens and a Forest Buzzard circling lazily above the lower gardens. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 South Africa: The Southwestern Cape & Kruger, 2018 Also present were flocks of Red-winged Starlings feeding in fruiting trees and numbers of the highly vocal Hadeda Ibis creating a racket as they passed overhead. Sombre Greenbul maintained a constant refrain from within their favored call sites but proved frustratingly difficult to see until taped into the open. Highlight for all was a Spotted Eagle Owl located in a day-roost for all to see and photograph. Cape Sugarbird With some reluctance and after a visit to the well-stocked book and gift shop, we set off for the Cape of Good Hope situated on the southwestern tip of the African continent at the point of convergence between the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. Following an excellent seafood lunch at the ‘Two Ocean’s’ restaurant overlooking False Bay, we set off in search of new species. Cape Bunting and Red-winged Starling dominated the parking area, making the most of handouts provided by the passing parade of tourists. Cape Grassbird Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 South Africa: The Southwestern Cape & Kruger, 2018 Leaving the main arterial for the quieter side roads proved productive with a highly vocal and surprisingly conspicuous Cape Grassbird providing riveting views from the top of a bush within touching distance of our bus. Other notables included a male cock African Ostrich in full breeding dress on the beach, with breaking waves behind it as a unique photo opportunity. Other notables included African Black Oystercatcher, Sacred Ibis, White-fronted Plover, and Cape Wagtail on a sheltered section of beach. Our search down a quiet track to Olifantsbosch at the start of the shipwreck trail produced Yellow Bishop, Cape Weaver, Rock Martin, Blacksmith Lapwing, Familiar Chat, and Karoo Prinia. A group of previously endangered Bontebok, an antelope species hunted to the very brink of extinction early in the 20 th century, were finally found after an intensive search as the mammal of the day. Chacma Baboon (image by Rosanna Lane) Surprise of all, and certainly a delightful photographic opportunity of note, was a family of Chacma Baboons attending to the needs of a newborn infant in a most touching and almost human-like manner that delighted us all… With sunset and gate closing time approaching, we headed back to the main arterial encountering a herd of stately Eland, by far Africa’s largest antelope, with gamboling calves providing amusing entertainment as they romped about in what resembled a game of ‘tag’ reminiscent of lambs at play.