COMMERCIAL HAND DRAWN BATIK APPAREL AND ITS MARKET POTENTIAL WITH YOUNG MALAYSIANS PEGAH JAHANGIRI CULTURAL CENTRE UniversityUNIVERSITY OF of MALAYA Malaya KUALA LUMPUR 2017 COMMERCIAL HAND DRAWN BATIK APPAREL AND ITS MARKET POTENTIAL WITH YOUNG MALAYSIANS PEGAH JAHANGIRI THESIS SUBMITED IN FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY CULTURAL CENTRE UNIVERSITY OF MALAYA KUALA LUMPUR University of Malaya 2017 UNIVERSITI MALAYA ORIGINAL LITERARY WORK DECLARATION Name of Candidate: Pegah Jahangiri Registration/Matric No: RHA090001 Name of Degree: Doctor of Philosophy Title of Project Paper/Research Report/Dissertation/Thesis (“this Work”): “Commercial Hand Drawn Batik Apparel and Its Market Potential with Young Malaysians” Field of Study: Visual Arts I do solemnly and sincerely declare that: (1) I am the sole author/writer of this Work; (2) This Work is original; (3) Any use of any work in which copyright exists was done by way of fair dealing and for permitted purposes and any excerpt or extract from, or reference to or reproduction of any copyright work has been disclosed expressly and sufficiently and the title of the Work and its authorship have been acknowledged in this Work; (4) I do not have any actual knowledge nor do I ought reasonably to know that the making of this work constitutes an infringement of any copyright work; (5) I hereby assign all and every rights in the copyright to this Work to the University of Malaya (“UM”), who henceforth shall be owner of the copyright in this Work and that any reproduction or use in any form or by any means whatsoever is prohibited without the written consent of UM having been first had and obtained; (6) I am fully aware that if in the course of making this Work I have infringed any copyright whether intentionally or otherwise, I may be subject to legal action or any other action as may be determined by UM. CandidateUniversity’s Signature of MalayaDate 8/6/17 Subscribed and solemnly declared before, Witness’s Signature Date 8/6/17 Name: Farshad Parsa Designation: Husband ii ABSTRACT The purpose of this study was to seek a better understanding toward commercial hand-drawn batik apparel design and dress practice in the Klang Valley. This thesis looks into hand-drawn batik apparel from four perspectives. First it explores into contemporary hand-drawn batik developments, design and technique and related issues. Second it analyzes the youth perceptions and ideas toward hand-drawn batik specifications, design and influences of fashion and media. Third, it evaluates clothing values of the research sample and its relation with wearing hand-drawn batik apparel. At last it investigates the dress practice of youth in a batik context. This thesis is emphasizing on the ideas of youth about hand-drawn batik as a fashion wear and what influences them to wear batik or not. Lots of efforts have been put in bring batik back to mode; but how often do we see people especially youngsters wear hand-drawn batik apparel? An introductory pilot study was done by researcher to support the significance of this research and showed that the total of 84% agreed that younger generations prefer to wear other garments rather than batik. So, it is necessary to define the reasons that influence the popularity of hand-drawn batik as a dress practice in young generation. This study used mixed methods research which combines quantitative and qualitative approaches. Qualitative phase is an exploratory research and the instrument used in this part was semi-structured interviews with open-ended questions, sampling methodUniversity was non-probability sampling ofpurposive Malaya sampling plus saturation and respondents were expert individuals in the area of batik. Quantitative phase used explanatory survey design method which describes and define trends in the population; dependent variable (DV) in this study is the selection and use of hand-drawn batik clothing which is influenced by independent variables that include hand-drawn batik specifications, aesthetic in design, fashion influences, media influences and clothing values. The instrument used was a Likert scale questionnaire in this phase. The iii questionnaire validity was fully investigated and accepted by consulting with research experts (n=5) and among internal consistency methods the Cronbach's coefficient alpha was chosen to check the reliability of the instrument and the reliability test result was (α = 0.913). Research sample were young individuals aged 19 to 25 from undergraduate students from University of Malaya; both genders, ethnic groups and racial composition were included. The sample size was (n=375) defined by Morgan table for determining sample size from a given population. Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (SPSS) is used in this phase of the research. The findings provided the factors and reasons which shaped the process of development, influenced the popularity of batik dress practice in youngsters and defining the related issues of hand-drawn batik in fashion designing; it is hoped that the outcomes of this study can improve hand-drawn batik apparel in order to satisfy the taste and need of young fashion consumers of today. University of Malaya iv ABSTRAK Tujuan kajian ini adalah untuk mendapatkan pemahaman yang lebih baik ke arah reka bentuk komersial dan amalan pemakaian pakaian batik lukisan tangan di Lembah Klang. Tesis ini menjurus kepada pakaian batik lukisan tangan dari empat perspektif. Pertama ia meneroka ke dalam perkembangan batik lukisan tangan kontemporari, reka bentuk dan teknik dan isu-isu yang berkaitan. Kedua ia menganalisis persepsi dan idea belia ke arah spesifikasi batik lukisan tangan, reka bentuk, pengaruh fesyen dan media. Ketiga, ia menilai nilai pakaian melalui sampel kajian dan kaitannya dengan memakai pakaian batik lukisan tangan. Akhirnya penyelidik menyiasat amalan pemakaian belia dalam konteks batik. Tesis ini menekankan kepada idea-idea belia mengenai batik lukisan tangan sebagai pakaian fesyen dan apa yang mempengaruhi mereka untuk memakai batik ataupun tidak. Banyak usaha telah dijalankan untuk mengembalikan mod batik; tetapi berapa kerap kita melihat pengguna terutamanya anak-anak muda memakai pakaian batik lukisan tangan? Satu kajian rintis pengenalan telah dilakukan oleh penyelidik untuk menyokong kepentingan kajian ini dan menunjukkan bahawa sebanyak 84% bersetuju bahawa generasi muda lebih suka memakai pakaian yang lain daripada batik. Oleh itu, amatlah perlu untuk menentukan faktor-faktor yang mempengaruhi populariti batik lukisan tangan sebagai amalan pakaian dikalangan generasi muda. UniversityKajian ini menggunakan kajian ofkaedah Malayacampuran yang menggabungkan pendekatan kuantitatif dan kualitatif. Fasa kualitatif merupakan kajian penerokaan dan instrumen yang digunakan dalam bahagian ini adalah temu bual separa berstruktur dengan soalan-soalan terbuka, kaedah persampelan adalah bukan kebarangkalian sampel persampelan bertujuan untuk menambah tepu dan responden merupakan individu yang pakar dalam bidang batik. Fasa kuantitatif menggunakan penerangan kajian kaedah reka bentuk yang menerangkan dan menentukan trend dalam populasi v penduduk; pembolehubah bersandar (DV) dalam kajian ini ialah pemilihan dan penggunaan pakaian batik lukisan tangan yang dipengaruhi oleh pembolehubah bebas seperti spesifikasi lukisan tangan batik, estetik dalam reka bentuk, pengaruh fesyen, pengaruh media dan nilai-nilai pakaian. Instrumen yang digunakan dalam fasa ini adalah soal selidik skala ‘Likert’. Kesahihan soal selidik telah disiasat sepenuhnya dan diterima oleh pakar-pakar penyelidikan melalui rundingan (n=5) dan antara kaedah ketekalan dalaman pekali alfa ‘Cronbach’ telah dipilih untuk memeriksa kebolehpercayaan instrumen tersebut dan hasil ujian kebolehpercayaan adalah (α = 0.913). Sampel kajian adalah individu muda yang berumur 19 hingga 25 daripada pelajar ijazah sarjana muda dari Universiti Malaya; dipilih dari kedua-dua jantina, kumpulan etnik dan komposisi kaum. Saiz sampel adalah (n= 375) yang ditakrifkan oleh jadual ‘Morgan’ untuk menentukan saiz sampel daripada populasi yang diberikan. Pakej Statistik untuk Sains Sosial (SPSS) telah digunakan dalam fasa penyelidikan ini. Penemuan memberikan faktor-faktor dan sebab-sebab yang berbentuk proses pembangunan, mempengaruhi populariti amalan pemakaian batik dikalangan anak-anak muda dan menentukan isu-isu yang berkaitan dengan rekaan fesyen batik lukisan tangan; adalah diharapkan hasil kajian ini dapat meningkatkan pemakaian batik lukisan tangan untuk memenuhi citarasa dan keperluan pengguna fesyen generasi muda hari ini. University of Malaya vi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Firstly, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my both supervisors Dr. Sabzali Musa Kahn and Dr. Loo Fung Ying for the continuous support of my Ph.D. study, for their patience, motivation, and guidance which helped me in all the time of research and writing of this thesis. My sincere thanks also go to Dr. Mandana Barkeshli and Mr. Jafari Hanafi whose insightful comments provided me with a better understanding along the way. I would also like to thank the kind and humble experts, who were involved in the process of data collection, also the undergraduate students of University of Malaya who patiently filled my questionnaire. I take this opportunity to express gratitude to all of the Department of Visual Arts, Cultural Centre members and staff, especially Mrs. Noor Fazhilah Mohd Jaapar for their help and support. I would also like to thank all batik designers,