Closeup on a Caribbean Reef view of St. Croix and the reef areas, take the Construction of a typical aquatic housing Surpassing even the familiar beauty of the Virgin trail to the top of Buck Island. The National project begins when the free-swimming coral Islands is the world of the tropical reef. At its Park Service provides picnic tables, charcoal larva attaches itself to some firm surface, be­ best, this world is incredibly colorful and varied. grilles, a small house for changing clothes, a comes a full-fledged polyp, and begins secreting Intensely alive, the reef is nothing less than a sheltered pavilion, and restrooms. its own limy exterior skeleton. This single polyp joy to the senses. Swimming and snorkeling in and all its many descendants, building on one the crystal-clear lagoon just off Buck Island The Coral Reef another, budding new members as they go, near St. Croix is an ideal way to see one of the Of all the reef residents, the corals have the erect their communal skeleton outward and up­ best Caribbean reefs firsthand. Well suited to most extraordinary habits; these are the archi­ ward toward the all-important rays of the sun. beginner and expert alike, Buck Island Reef tects, the builders, and the landlords of the reef. Colony after colony in hundreds of shapes and offers shallow water snorkeling above the inner Ranging in size from a pinhead to a raindrop, sizes ultimately create the reefs that decorate reef and deep water exploring along the outer billions of tiny master builders, called polyps, the ocean floor—spires, trees, shrubs, stone- barrier. erect the dazzling array of reef forms that give hard staghorns, huge boulders that appear to quarter for all other life in the coral community. be designed after the cortex of a monstrous Getting to Buck Island Reef requires only a visit As architects of the reef, they must follow nat­ brain belonging to some supersized being. Each to one of the skippers who operate small boats ural, but nonetheless strict, "building codes" shape and design represents a species of coral. between St. Croix and the island. All boatmen that keep them within tolerances of light, tem­ furnish snorkeling equipment. The adventure perature, salinity, oxygen, motion, depth, and The larger, more rigid structures become the begins in the morning with a trip directly to the firmness of the base on which they build. "buildings" of the coral community. Among reef for an hour-and-a-half of swimming and World geography even dictates site selection them, surrounding them, are the plantlike shapes snorkeling. Arrow markers and signs on the for coral structures. of near relatives—the gorgonians, sea whips, ocean floor guide snorkelers along the Buck and sea fans. Only a small percentage of grow­ Island Reef nature trail. By following the under­ Usually associated with the shallow waters of ing things in the reef community are true plants. water signs you can snorkel the trail in about offshore tropical islands, coral reefs are seldom Reef ecology is one in which the animals far 30 minutes. found farther than 22° north or south of the outnumber the plants—the reverse of lush land equator. They occur only off the east coasts of communities where plants outnumber animals. At lunchtime, the boats stop at Buck Island. the world's continents, where prevailing winds Here you may eat, swim, or take a walk on the and the earth's rotation push tropical waters Even as the polyps erect their dwellings, multi­ primitive hiking trail through the tropical vege­ north and south toward the poles. Reef builders colored fishes and other marine creatures tation that covers the island. For a spectacular reject, as substandard, building sites along already are moving in. These residents comprise deeper western continental shores; there cold a second category of reef inhabitants. To the upwelling currents move toward the equator still backdrop of coralline shapes, they add life and preclude their growth. and motion and color. The third major group of creatures at the reef are those which come Most of us, if given a free Here in the Caribbean, waters are clear, maxi­ to feed upon its inhabitants. Sharks, snappers, choice of places to dive mum light is available, and temperatures meet and barracudas, among others, cruise slowly would pick the coral reef polypean standards—rarely falling below 20°C among the corals, seeking the opportunity to for several reasons. It (68°F). Currents move gently, bringing the plank­ flash toward unwary prey. For every creature possesses by far the ton—microscopic animals and plants—on which there is a role to fulfill and a purpose unique gaudiest, most varied, and the nocturnally-feeding polyps subsist. In these most luxurious fauna of to its own kind. any place where life is waters too, polyps find solid foundations at found on earth. In its acceptable depths. Reefs seldom develop in The overall effect is one of pure fantasy. A never-ending nooks and water deeper than 45 to 60 meters (150 to 200 world so sensate, so unmercifully beautiful, crannies, innumerable feet), and soft or shifting bottoms have poor could not have been created by the richest of animals make their homes, coral formations or none at all. imaginations. In the coral reef, the gifts of life animals which quite frequently have extra­ and beauty are concentrated as they are no­ ordinary habits. where else in nature. Porkfish (Antsolrmmus v„ff„„cus; - , Hjnw L itt From Pastureland to Parkland: Another animal associated with man—the rat— Safety on the Reef Help Protect the Park and Yourself Buck Island's History indirectly created a separate ecological prob­ Sunburn is the greatest single threat to your You may take part in many activities at Buck Buck Island, beautiful as it is, bears the scars lem in the early 1900s. Bubonic plague, which physical well-being here. Popular lore concern­ Island, but to protect the natural values of the of long habitation. Since the 1750s, the island is spread by rats, was epidemic in Puerto Rico ing ferocious sharks, moray eels, and barra­ island, a few regulations are necessary: has been used for a residence, and for agri­ at that time. Declaring war on rats, officials cudas notwithstanding, sunburn causes far more culture, pasturage, and lumbering. In 1948, introduced mongooses in many areas, including discomfort than any other hazard. Visitors Fires are permitted, but only in the picnic Buck Island became a park and was adminis­ Buck Island. Because mongooses forage during snorkeling on the surface with their backs ex­ area grilles. tered by the Virgin Islands Government; in 1961 the day, and rats are nocturnal animals, the posed to the tropical sun too frequently forget the area was transferred to the National Park strategy failed. The mongooses prey primarily that the combination of bright sun and seawater Camp overnight on board your boat—not on Service. on the island's native birds and reptiles, and the can quickly cause sunburn. For this reason we the island. rats continue to survive. recommend short periods in the sun and the Foureye Butterflyfish use of protective waterproof lotions. Enjoy the underwater wildlife, but remember IChaetodoa aapddalusl . Despite the continued presence of some intro­ that possession of a speargun within park Queen Angelfish duced animals, Buck Island belongs more to Second to caution under the sun comes caution boundaries is prohibited. nature today than at any time in its recent his­ in the water. Cuts from coral can inflict painful tory. The return to nature began with the elimi­ wounds that may be slow to heal. The common Please do not remove any natural features nation of the goats in the 1950s. Overgrazing spiny sea urchins are a particularly sharp haz­ from the park. When whites first set eye on Buck Island in the had by that time reduced the island to a more- ard. Jellyfish, the Portuguese man-of-war, and or-less desertlike appearance. As the vegetation fire corals can sting and burn, some severely. Use litter barrels for trash or, better yet, take Administration 1700s, it was covered with Lignumvitae trees, locally called Pokholdt trees. The island took returned at a quickening pace, Buck Island A good practice is to enjoy the reef by watch­ all your trash back with you. Buck Island Reef National Monument is admin­ again became home to a variety of native spe­ ing, touching nothing unless you're sure of it. istered by the National Park Service, U.S. De­ its name from these trees. Corrupted by usage, cies. The island is now one of the important Never reach into a dark hole: the moray that Boats should be maneuvered slowly through partment of the Interior. The superintendent of the name changed from "Pocken-Eyland" Caribbean nesting sites left where the pesticide- may be residing there has not been known to park waters. Water skiing, speeding, and Virgin Islands National Park, Box 806, Charlotte, (Dutch) to "Bocken" and finally to "Buck." The latter two names refer to goats which were ridden brown pelican isstill producing live young. attack a human swimmer outright but would reckless boating are prohibited. Amalie, St. Thomas, V. I. 00801 has general likely strike at an intruding hand and inflict a supervision of the area. A superintendent for pastured on the island beginning in the 1750s. painful wound. Treat all underwater creatures Leave Buck Island as you found it. Buck Island is stationed at Fort Christiansvaern, Sometime during the 19th century, the Lignum­ French Angelfish (juvenile) with respect. P.O. Box 160,Christiansted, St.