InternationalLiving.com March 2019 Vol.38 No.11 INTERNATIONAL LIVINGSINCE 1979 INSIDE THIS ISSUE PAGE 20 On the Verge of a Tipping Point: Why You Should Consider Belize To d a y PAGE 10 Just Outside the City, Panamá Pacifíco Grows Up PAGE 26 Investments You Don’t Need to Report to Uncle Sam PAGE 32 Mountains and Mosaics in Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor PLUS GLOBETROTTER INCOME OVERSEAS EXPAT STORIES UPCOMING EVENTS SOLUTIONS CLASSIFIEDS travel orning has come to Montenegro, and all is calm on the Bay of MKotor. Emerging from behind a craggy peak, the sun gradually illuminates the steep limestone mountains surrounding the bay. Tiny stone homes, each one different, and packed so close together that their walls are touching, reflect in the glass-like water. Eventually, a fisherman—whose wooden boat is trailed by a mob of intent seagulls scanning for scraps—delicately cuts through the scene. For millennia, diverse groups of people have plied the strategic waters of the Bay of Kotor. Everyone from the Illyrians and the Romans to the Venetians and the Austro-Hungarians have lived here at one point or other. Today, the Boka Kotorska, as it’s known locally, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has the unusual distinc- Despite having only one main street, tiny Perast boasts 16 churches and 17 former grand palazzi. tion of being recognized not only for its cultural heritage, but also for its dramatic natural features. Mountains and Mosaics in Though it’s technically not a fjord, the Bay of Kotor is often described as one, thanks to its steep surrounding slopes that Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor plunge dramatically into the water. Quaint old towns dot the shores of this butterfly- Tricia A. Mitchell shaped bay, inviting history lovers, culture seekers, and people watchers. If you like Kotor—Fortified Walls and Old Palaces boutiques, restaurants, and an abundance active adventures, there are countless Kotor’s triangle-shaped Old Town is of friendly cats. It’s a joy to wander—and opportunities for hiking, sailing, kayak- bordered by water on two sides and by get lost in. ing, swimming, and boating. I’ve been to a rugged mountain on another. Inside Rising above Kotor’s terracotta roof- this enchanting corner of Europe three the town you’ll find white-stone palaces tops is the formidable Fortress of St. John times; most recently, my husband, Shawn, with Venetian-Gothic flair, Orthodox and (Tvrdava Sveti Ivan), part of an extensive and I spent two months in the Bay of Kotor Catholic churches (St. Tryphon’s Cathedral fortification network. Kotor’s walls—per- area. and St. Nicholas are the most famous), fected over the course of about eight cen- PRACTICAL TIPS FOR EXPLORING THE BAY OF KOTOR Currency: Montenegro is not yet a mem- from Dubrovnik to Kotor’s Old Town is extraordinary views of the bay. The apart- ber of the European Union. However, it about 60 miles. ment is family-owned and just a five-minute uses the euro as currency. It also is not part Tr a n s p o r t a t i o n : Buses link towns in the walk from Kotor’s Old Town. It’s listed on of the Schengen Zone, which means it’s Bay of Kotor area, as well as Montenegro’s Airbnb, Booking.com, and Facebook. possible to extend your European stay by main cities. For schedules and prices, see Climate: The bay’s climate is Mediter- taking a “Schengen hop” to the country. Busticket4.me/en. For short journeys around ranean, but because of its mountainous Getting there: Montenegro has two the Bay of Kotor, we used the Blue Line. setting by the water’s edge, it can be wet international airports—one in Tivat and One-way fares from Kotor’s Old Town to during the winter months. Summers are another in its capital city, Podgorica. Fly- Perast, for example, were only $1.15. If you generally hot and dry. ing into nearby Dubrovnik, Croatia, and choose to rent a car, be aware that driving Getting beyond the Bay of Kotor: traveling overland to Montenegro is a conditions can be demanding, given Monte- Montenegro’s Adriatic Coast and beach popular alternative. From Dubrovnik you negro’s narrow roads and “daring” drivers. towns like Budva, Petrovac, and Ulcinj STOCK can either take a bus or drive a rental car. Accommodation: You can find apart- are within a day’s drive, as is glorious Lake i / Be aware that the wait time at the Croatia- ments to rent short-term and hotels in the Skadar National Park. It’s southern Europe’s Montenegro border can vary—particularly Bay of Kotor area. We stayed at the Apart- largest lake and is a haven for freshwater during the peak travel season. The distance ment Emma, which has one bedroom and and migratory birds. © BLUEJAYPHOTO INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I MARCH 2019 32 turies—trail up the mountain and around the town, looking a little like China’s Great Wall, but climbing steeper inclines. If you MEDITERRANEAN DIET—THE BAY’S fancy a bit of exercise, plus marvelous DELICIOUS CUISINE views of the bay, be prepared to tackle 1,350 (or so) stairs. Tickets are $3.50. Once you’ve aving long been at the crossroads are also white varietals such as Krstač. reached the fortress, be on the lookout for of civilizations and a complex Seafood: The Bay of Kotor is well the Lion of St. Mark adorning the top of Htrading network, the Bay of Kotor known for its mussels and oysters. You’ll an entryway. This symbol of Venice was has developed a diverse cuisine over the also find grilled octopus, stufed calamari placed there when Kotor was part of the centuries. Its flavors reflect its geography— on rice, and risotto dishes into which Venetian Empire. a middle point between placid sea and seafood has been incorporated. Bokeški Coffee culture thrives in Montenegro, rugged mountains, and of west and east. Brodet is also popular—it’s a hearty fish so you’ll happen upon many cafés as you For a local twist on the established stew made with vegetables and white wine explore Kotor’s cobblestone lanes. The staples of the Mediterranean diet, here are and served with polenta. Forza Café is on Weapons Square (Trg some traditional Montenegran foods to Ottoman-inspired dishes: You’ll also od Oružja), just around the corner from look out for: encounter food that’s beloved throughout Kotor’s main entrance, the Sea Gate. Njeguški pršut and cheese: Pršut much of the Balkan peninsula. The region Overlooked by the fortress and the square’s is a dried ham similar to Prosciutto. The stretches east from the border of Italy to 17th-century clock tower, this is the perfect ham, together with a semi-soft cow’s-milk Greece, Turkey, and Romania at its outer spot for people watching. cheese, is produced in a mountain village edges, and encompasses a wide range of My preferred restaurant—originally high above Kotor called Njeguši. cultures and cuisines. That said, certain recommended to me by several locals— Olives and olive oil: Some of the best dishes are universal, such as Ćevapi. These is Bastion 3. It’s refreshingly removed come from the coastal city of Bar, on the delicious minced beef, lamb, or pork from Kotor’s popular tourist core, just a Adriatic Sea about 38 miles from Kotor. sausages are served with flatbread and few steps outside the north-facing gate. Wine: Vranac, a dry and delightful red, a helping of ajvar (a roasted pepper and Bastion is casual, and its ample portions is Montenegro’s most famous wine. There eggplant condiment). range from $8 to $15 per dish. I enjoyed the Šopska Salata (a salad of cucumbers, toma- toes, red peppers, and grated soft white There is an additional $1.70 fee to visit the reflects the passage of time, with the art- cheese) as well as the Crni Rižot (cuttle- church museum and it is well worth a look. ist’s hair eventually turning from brown to fish risotto, cooked with red wine). If the Inside, you’ll see magnificent paintings grey. Perast was once a wealthy naval town; weather is pleasant, you can grab a table created by local baroque master Tripo Kunic-Mijovic is said to have been awaiting outside on the terrace. See: Bastion123.com. Kokolja mingling with thousands of silver the return of her seafaring sweetheart. offerings donated by pilgrims. Perast is best enjoyed at the water’s Perast—Pilgrims and Picnics Another highlight of the museum is edge, so either pack a picnic and stake out Perast is one of the most serene spots on an embroidered piece that took a local a bench or dine at one of the waterside the Bay of Kotor. Venetian-style stone woman, Jacinta Kunic-Mijovic, more than restaurants. Shawn and I picnicked, then churches and palaces hold court beside the two decades to make. She fashioned the savored cappuccinos and dessert at the bay. Depending upon the season, some of image of Mary, Jesus, and cherubs out of Hotel Conte restaurant. As we watched the mighty peaks behind Perast may even fine silk and even her own hair. The artwork boats ferry passengers to Our Lady of the be capped with snow. Rocks, Shawn raved about the Peraška tradi- Two islands rise from the water close to cionalna torta (an almond flour cake based Perast’s shore. Saint George (Sveti Dordi) BOSNIA AND on a beloved Perast recipe). I had similar is naturally occurring and is off limits HERZEGOVINA SERBIA praise for my own dessert: vanilla ice cream to visitors, while Our Lady of the Rocks dressed with roasted hazelnuts, pistachios, (Gospa od Škrpjela) is artificial.