DOSSIER The Wine Roads of Northern Greece take in spectacular alpine roads, ancient monuments, top restaurants and unique wineries. The Wine Roads of Northern Greece Few places in the world combine wine and culture as well as the wine roads of northern Greece. Pick any road, and discover not just unique wines and indigenous grapes, but spectacu- lar nature, historic villages, and the wonders of the ancient world. he immense bronze Derveni krater re the wine roads of northern Greece, which the idea of wine tourism in Greece. Now, the- in the Archaeological Musem of pass by the doors of some of Greece’s best re are guided wine tours, restaurants, degus- TThessaloniki is proof of the sacred wineries. tations…” place that wine has held in Greek culture. Kechris is an old name in Greek wine and The 40-kilo funerary urn was modelled on THE WINE ROADS Stelios Kechris joined the family business in a ‘krater’, the wine vessel used at anci- 1984, after studying in Greece and France. As ent symposia, or drinking parties, where In 1993, 13 wineries came together to well as producing highly-awarded wines from young men came together to debate over create the Wine Roads of Macdeonia. In both international and indigenous varietals, wine diluted with water. The wine was 2002, the Association expanded and became he is known as the ‘father of retsina’, thanks clearly excellent, if someone loved it so The Wine Roads of Northern Greece. Today, it to his high-quality approach that has brought much they insisted on being buried in a has 29 members. the unique wine back to glory. wine jar. “It has developed into a much bigger Stelios Kechris Domaine is in Macedonia, And yet the world is only now waking up organisation than we expected,” said Stelios northern Greece’s largest region, bordering to Greek wine, largely because of the 1950s Kechris, during a tasting at Stelios Kechris Albania, the Former Yugoslav Republic of and ‘60s migrations, when waves of Greek Domaine, outside Thessaloniki. He explained Macedonia and Bulgaria. It has a continental migration took place. Unfortunately, the wines that the Wine Roads consist of eight routes, climate with hot summers that are moderated of the time that Greeks took with them could taking in monasteries, restaurants, museums by cool nights, and cold winters. The same re- be poor quality, creating an image that persists and significant sites. While the wine routes gion is home to another famous name, Ktima today. After Greece joined the European Union are named after their respective areas – Ste- Gerovassiliou, which makes both Greek and in 1981 and the economy improved, however, lios Kechris Domaine is on the Wine Route of international wines. Those seeking something there was more money for wine and quality Thessaloniki – northern Greece is divided into unique should try the Avaton, a blend of Mav- rose. Today, Greece is dotted with state-of-the- four geographical regions: Epirus, Macedo- roudi, Mavrotragano and Limnio, a wine men- art wineries that produce innovative riffs on nia, Thrace and Thessaly, within which there tioned by Aristophanes in 5BCE. Ktima Gero- classics like Syrah and Pinot Noir, along with are different appellations. Kechris says it’s a vassilious also has a wine museum – exhibits crisp blends of Assyrtiko and Sauvignon Blanc, testament to the enthusiasm of the wineries include more than 2,000 corkscrews. Wine & or wines made from indigenous grapes. that the wine routes have come into being so Spirits magazine named Ktima Gerovassiliou The best way to discover them is to explo- quickly. “Twenty years ago, there wasn’t even as Winery of the Year four times, while others 37 DOSSIER have named Vangelis Gerovassilious among production, and by encouraging the develop- the world’s best winemakers. ment of other winemakers: Yiannis Boutaris is often called the ‘Robert Mondavi of Greece’. THE WINE ROUTES OF THE His son Stellios founded Kir-Yianni Estate LAKES in 1997, in Yianakohori, the highest point of Naoussa, on a 50 ha estate the family acquired Travel around the lakes for bright blue in the 1960s. From the beginning, the estate skies, tortoises trying their luck on the roads, planted Xinomavro in double vertical shoot and shimmering water. At Voyatzi Estate, a positioning vineyards, a technique unused in Pavlidis Estate modernist white building at the foothills of Greece at the time. Today, Xinomavro is the the Pieria Mountains, the waters of Lake Poly- flagship of the northern wine roads, and Kir- fytos practically lap at the vineyards. Originally Yianni is one of Greece’s largest vineyards, co- wine merchants, the Voyatzi family settled in INDIGENOUS VARIETIES vering 60 ha. Among the winery’s many offe- the developing town of Katerini and ran a rings are the popular Akakies rosé and Akakies wine cellar until 1922. Third-generation Yan- Debina sparkling, from 100% Xinomavro. nis Voyatzi studied oenology in Bordeaux be- Used for dry, sparkling and semi- Also in Naoussa is Vaeni Naoussa, showca- fore returning to the region and establishing sparkling wines. Given the internati- sing a traditional co-operative with more than a vineyard with his father and brother; the onal surge in sparkling, the charming 200 members. Of particular interest is their vineyards were planted between 1991 and wines, and the catchy name, Debina is Xinomavro, which literally means ‘acid black’. 1994. They’re in the perfect position, being sure to be a hit. While Greek winemakers call Xinomavro the on gentle slopes whose climate is moderated ‘Pinot Noir’ of Greece, thanks to its finicky na- by the nearby water. Assyrtiko ture when growing, but its expressiveness in The wines are proudly Greek in origin: Assyrtiko from northern Greece show the glass, they could also call it the ‘Nebbiolo a straight Xinomavro, and a white blend of great aromatic intensity and weight on of Greece’, given its fine, lingering acidity that Assyrtiko, Chardonnay and Malvasia Aroma- the palate and works well on its own, gives it such good ageing potential. tica. “The plan is to eventually take out the or blended. international varietals,” says Eirini Zande, who THE WINE ROUTE OF is conducting the tasting. “It’s time for us to Malagousia DIONYSUS go back and work with Greek varietals - you When Domaine Porto Carras rescued can find good Chardonnay anywhere in the Malagousia from obscurity in the Drama, one of the country’s most pro- world.” 1970s, wine lovers were astounded by mising wine regions, has many places sac- Alpha Estate is located in northwestern its power and aromatic character. Now red to the god Dionysus. While archaeology Greece, in the heart of the Amyndeon appel- found across Greece. suggests that Drama was a vast vineyard in lation, between lakes Petron and Vegoritis, at ancient times, it’s only relatively recently that an altitude exceeding 600 m, with ideal cli- Roditis viticulturists have recognised the outstanding mate and soil conditions. Vinegrower Makis The most planted white variety in potential of the region, better known for its Mavridis and winemaker Angelos Iatridis aim Greece, Roditis is one of the oldest marble quarries. to produce wines of the highest level from the indigenous varieties known. It can Ktima Pavlidis, owned by Christofors Pav- single block, privately owned 85 ha vineyard. be rich or elegant, but always shows lidis, spreads its white wings spread under The establishment of the vineyard in the late balanced acidity. Mount Falakro. Inside, the winery is clean- 1990s represented a new reference for viti- lined and state-of-the-art. The wine labels are culture in Greece, combining ideal conditions Xinomavro also elegant, clear and easy to recall; there is and scientific vineyard design and manage- Xinomavro is one of the noblest vari- a Thema range, which is all about style – such ment. Recognised by the international wine eties of southern Europe. Capable of as a Syrah and Agiorgitiko blend – and an Em- press, their wines regularly gain high scores, producing wines in a range of styles, phasis range, which is about single varietals, from their entry level Axia Red, (50% Syrah its high acidity ensures that the best such as Assyrtiko. and 50% Xinomavro) to their Xinomavro Re- Xinomavro wines can age for decades. Another memorable winery is the Wine serve Old Vines, from their 93-year-old un- The flagship red of northern Greece. Art Estate, situated opposite Mt Pangaion, the grafted Xinomavro bush vine. centre of the ancient Dionysian cults. Owned Limnio by Yiannis Papadopoulos and Yiannis Kalaitzi- THE WINE ROADS OF Mentioned by Aristotle and Homer, dis, it makes a range of popular wines, of both NAOUSSA Limnio is an ancient variety. Modera- international and local varietals. But what gi- tely high in alcohol, Limnio offers an ves it visual impact is the way the winery is The Boutaris family have played an out- aromatic profile full of fresh herbs and bisected by a road, so when you walk under- sized role in the establishment of the modern red berries. ground from one section to another, you may wine industry, both by trail-blazing high-quality be walking beneath cars. 38 THE WINE ROUTE OF EPIRUS CHALKIDIKI Getting around northern Greece is easy, The hotel that dominates the luxury re- thanks to the new Egnatia Odos highway, one sort of Porto Carras looks like an ocean liner, of the largest and most ambitious civil enginee- recalling Greece’s shipping history. Sitting ring projects in Europe. One of the most beauti- on the western coast of Sithonia, Halkidiki’s ful places served by the road is the alpine village central peninsula, it offer beaches, fine di- of Metsovo, built some time before the Otto- ning, marinas, luxury accommodation – and man empire.