Images Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 185 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 186 IMAGES Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented. Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924) 187 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolite Photo by Keith Miller Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger Cratchley Photo by Grahame Budd 188 IMAGES Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter. Photo provided by Jon Stephenson 189 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo by Jon Stephenson 190 IMAGES Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya 191 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 192 IMAGES Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue. Photos provided by Dorothy Brown Image 4.1b 193 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 4.2. A young Geoff Wayatt climbing in Yosemite National Park, California, USA, 1969. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt Image 4.3. Geoff Wayatt guiding on Mt Sefton, Southern Alps, New Zealand, 2007. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 194 IMAGES Image 5.1. The Mulkila expedition team at base camp, 1975 Photo provided by Dorothy Brown 1. Michel Altmann. 2. J.P. Sharma (Indian Army Liaison Officer). 3. Warwick Deacock. 4. John Ryder (or Gary Ash). 5. Peter Morris (Doctor for trip–now an ACT orthopedic surgeon). 6. Jim Dorrington. 7. John Dorrington. 8. Dorothy Brown. 9. Derek Lucas. 10. Adrian Blake. 11. Josephine Flood. 12. Harry Aldridge. 13. Gary Ash (or John Ryder). 14. Keith Seddon. 15. Terry Jack. 195 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 5.2. From left: Warwick Deacock, Derek Lucas and Jim Dorrington at base camp on the glacier, Mulkila, 1975. Photo by Dorothy Brown 196 IMAGES Image 6.1. A training climb at Booroomba Rocks near Canberra. Tim Macartney- Snape on “Morning Thunder”. Photo by James Press 197 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 6.2. Climbing the ice cliffs at Blue Lake, Snowy Mountains, NSW, a training climb for the ANUMC Dunagiri expedition, as reported in the Sydney Morning Herald, 1977. Photo provided by Ken Baldwin 198 IMAGES Image 7.1. Dunagiri (7066 m), India, the first major Himalayan peak climbed by an Australian expedition. The route went up to the snowy col at the left of the photo, up the rock buttress, and then along the skyline ridge to the summit. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 7.2. The Dunagiri team at base camp. Front row, left: Captain Niyogi, Ken Bell, Theo Hooy, John Finnigan, Ken Baldwin, Martin Stone, Kundan Singh. Back row, left: John Armstrong, Sher Singh, Tim Macartney-Snape, Ganga Singh, Peter Cocker, Charlie Massey, Ben Sandilands, Keith Burns, Andrew Blakers. Seated in middle, left: Lincoln Hall, Andrew Bond, Mark Podkolinski. Photo by Andrew Blakers 199 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 7.3. Dunagiri expedition leader Peter Cocker at base camp. Photo by Andrew Blakers 200 IMAGES Image 7.4. Tim Macartney-Snape climbing along the summit ridge of Dunagiri. Photo by Lincoln Hall Image 7.5. Lincoln Hall at the start of the summit ridge of Dunagiri, with still almost two kilometres before the summit. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape 201 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 7.6. The rescue of a frost-bitten Lincoln Hall on the lower slopes of Dunagiri. Climbers rendering assistance are Ken Bell, Mark Podkolinski and John Finnigan. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 7.7. Weary Dunagiri climbers after the expedition. From left: Sher Singh, Martin Stone, Charlie Massey, Theo Hooy, Ken Bell, Keith Burns (back turned to camera), Andrew Bond. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape 202 IMAGES Image 7.8. The 25-year reunion of the Dunagiri expedition, Charlotte Pass, Snowy Mountains, NSW, 2003. Back, from left to right: Theo Hooy, John Armstrong, Andrew Blakers, Ben Sandilands, Ken Bell, Peter Smith. Middle, from left: Martin Stone, Peter Lane, Will Steffen, John Finnigan, Bill Packard. Front, from left: Peter Cocker, Ken Baldwin. Packard was patron of the Dunagiri expedition. Lane and Steffen were members of the 1988 Baruntse expedition; Smith was a member of the trekking party to Baruntse. Photo by Ken Baldwin Image 8.1. Climbing in New Zealand’s Southern Alps. Tim Macartney-Snape at the base of the south face of Mt Hicks. Photo by Lincoln Hall 203 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 9.1. Andy Henderson climbing on fixed rope high on Ama Dablam, Nepal. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 9.2. On the summit of Ama Dablam. From left: Tim Macartney-Snape, Andy Henderson and Lincoln Hall. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape 204 IMAGES Image 10.1. Annapurna II (7937 m), as seen from low in the foothills near Pokhara, Nepal. The Australian expedition climbed the prominent spur sweeping down to the right from the summit. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 10.2. The Annapurna II expedition team, post-ascent at a jungle settlement below the mountain. From left: Narayan Shresta (in blue), Andy Henderson, Durga Rai, Lincoln Hall, Tim Macartney-Snape, Greg Mortimer and Tenzing Sherpa (Missing: Mike Groom, Ong Chu Sherpa). Photo from the Tim Macartney-Snape collection 205 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 10.3. At the snow cave (camp two) about 6600 m high on Annapurna II. The two climbers are Greg Mortimer and Andy Henderson (with beard). Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 10.4. A bivouac high on the ridge below the summit of Annapurna II. The climbers are Andy Henderson (left) and Greg Mortimer at the top, and Lincoln Hall below. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape 206 IMAGES Image 11.1. The team members of the 1984 Australian Everest expedition, at the Channel 9 studios in Sydney prior to the expedition. From left: Greg Mortimer, Andy Henderson, Geoff Bartram, Tim Macartney-Snape and Lincoln Hall. Photo by Steve White Image 11.2. The north face of Mt Everest (8850 m), Tibet. The Australian team made the first ascent of the Great Couloir, the prominent gully on the left side of the face. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape 207 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 11.3. Greg Mortimer climbing steep snow on the bottom section of Everest’s north face. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 11.4. Geoff Bartram in the snow cave at camp two on Everest’s north face. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape 208 IMAGES Image 12.1. Slowly climbing up the Great Couloir on the north face of Everest. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 12.2. Greg Mortimer traversing through the yellow rock band high on the north face of Everest. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape 209 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 12.3. Greg Mortimer on the summit of Mt Everest, October 1984. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Image 12.4. Greg Mortimer and Tim Macartney-Snape in China after the first Australian ascent of Mt Everest, October 1984. Photo from the Tim Macartney-Snape collection 210 IMAGES Image 13.1. Bernie McGee and Steve Kennedy on the traverse of the Mt Walter/Mt Green ridge traverse, with the Tasman Glacier below, Southern Alps, New Zealand, 1979. Photo by Zac Zaharias Image 13.2. Brian Agnew, Dave Sloane and Phil Pitham (from left) on a grand traverse of Mt Cook, Southern Alps, New Zealand, January 1981. Photo by Zac Zaharias 211 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 13.3. RMC (Royal Military College) Mountaineering Club adventure training activity, near Blue Lake, Snowy Mountains, 1977, standing on top of the (now demolished) Soil Conservation Hut, below Mt Twynam. Back row, from left: WO2 Clem Dwyer (SASR), John Trevivian, Peter Lambert, John Cashman, Lester Cornall, Mal Alexander, Stefan Fuchs, (Unknown), Paul Van den Berg, Fritz Schaumberg; Squatting: Steve Kennedy, Jim Truscott, Bernie McGee, Brian Fuge. Photo by Zac Zaharias Image 13.4. Zac Zaharias, John Trevivian and Jim Truscott (kneeling) above the Sentinel, Snowy Mountains, during an RMC (Royal Military College) Mountaineering Club training exercise, 1977. Photo from the Zac Zaharias collection 212 IMAGES Image 13.5. The Ganesh IV team photo at Kingsford Smith Airport, Sydney, prior to flying an RAAF 707 to Butterworth Air Force base. From left, Colonel Roy Macdonald, LT David Sloane, John Cashman, LT David Simpson, CAPT Jim Truscott, CAPT Zac Zaharias, CAPT Brian Agnew, SPR Phil Pitham and (kneeling) LT Rob Phillpot. Photo from the Zac Zaharias collection Image 13.6. The Ganesh IV team at base camp. Standing, from left, Temba Sherpa, Brian Agnew, John Cashman, David Simpson, Gyalchen Sherpa, David Sloane, (Unknown), Jim Truscott, Maila Pemba (sirdar), Rob Phillpot, Fritz Schaumburg, (Unknown). Sitting, from left: Dr Roy Macdonald, the Liaison Officer, Phil Pitham. Photo by Zac Zaharias 213 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 13.7. David Simpson returning exhausted to camp one after a carry to camp two, Ganesh IV. Photo by Zac Zaharias Image 13.8. The fatal avalanche on Ganesh IV, seen from camp one, as it broke and swept over camp two on 23 April, killing David Sloane and destroying the camp, leaving Pemba, Simpson and Truscott stranded without equipment and lucky to be alive.