UNIVERSITY OH CALIFORNIA SAN OIEGO MEEV M E B V A STORY OF ADVENTURES AND CAPTIVITY EPITOMISED FROM 'THE MEEV OASIS' BY EDMOND O'DONOVAN SPECIAL COKRESPON'DEXT OP 'THE DAILY SEWS' WITH A PORTRAIT LONDON SMITH, ELDER, & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE 1883 [All riylitt referred] ADVEETISEMENT. THE account of Mr. O'Donovan's Travels East of the Caspian, with his five months' residence among the Tekkes of Merv, having been published in two large volumes, which of necessity places it beyond the reach of many readers, it has been thought desirable to give an epitome of the work, which, leaving out political matters, presents the marvel- lous story of his adventures and captivity in a concise and popular form. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAOE Across the Steppe Delays in landing The Troika The Steppes Eussian stations A sporting country Thievish Tartars The Grand Hotel General Lazareff A dreary ride Beaching Baku . 1 CHAPTER H. A petroleum city Petroleum Fire worship A strange rite The Turcomans Chatte Flies and mosquitoes A reconnaissance In gorgeous array Caucasian horsemen The kandjar . .12 CHAPTER III. Searching for sulphur mines A desert post Bitter waters The Black Gulf Sulphur Mountain Turcoman steeds A night alarm The attack A race for life Worn out 22 CHAPTER IV. Waiting to advance Water snakes Quaint humanity Caucasian cavalry Uniforms Ideas and fashion Punishment of the knout An angler's paradise 32 CHAPTER V. Sickness The death of an old friend Funeral at sea General Ter- gukasoff Notice to quit A start for Persia A slimy waste A home for reptiles Eobber Turcomans The faithful dog A Jack-of-all-trades Night alarms An unpleasant welcome Asterabad . 39 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. PAGE A Persian town Wild boars Sanitary features The bazaar Manu- factures Felt-making A finished carpet Persian costume A story-teller Persian pottery A lost art 52 CHAPTER VII. Humours of activity A fresh venture Another dismissal A snow- storm Severe losses Fresh plans General Skobeleff . .63 CHAPTER VIII. Persian boatmen A Persian river Sturgeon and silkworms The ' ice torture Venomous serpents A ghastly burden The Bite the ' Stranger Effects of a bite The kanots The Shah's capital His Majesty's servants Court splendour Flower-scatterers . 70 CHAPTER IX. Important telegrams Visit to a magnate The Towers of Silence Fortifications Dwellers in the tombs A false alarm Beauty of villages Bitten A human churn <..... 8& CHAPTER X. Female pilgrims Dervishes A strange escort Joining the hadjis A night march A council of hadjis A skirmish A threatened massacre Eesults of the fight An awkward position A weird procession A dangerous ravine A fresh halt . .92 CHAPTER XI. The caravanserai Flies and scorpions A Persian residence Offer of an escort An act of lunacy Insect pests Fond of the sword An awkward look-out The Emir's palace An Eastern dinner- table The Emir of Kuchan A banquet The following of a feast Critical illness After the fever Abundance of fruit Beauty of Meshed Bazaar inmates Persian officials Ancient coins My bedroom Meshed water 105 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER XII. PAGE Persian obstruction Opening communications Turcoman heads Persian ruins Tarantulas and snakes A strange drink Kurdish castles Beauty of mountains A border chieftain The Khan's kiosk A Turcoman raid Held to ransom Brigandage . .128 CHAPTER XIII. A Persian passion play The theatre The drama An apology for grief A stage combat A stirring scene Sanguinary performance A religious dance Convenient pigtails Doing penance Dis- plays of grief The drama murdered, 141 CHAPTER XIV. Fresh obstacles Taken in ambush Fall of Geok Tepe The Russian advance The Tejend swamp Objects on the march SkobelefFs contribution Invited to Merv The Russian agent . .153 CHAPTER XV. Onward to Merv Atmospheric deceptions The Merv Tekkes Taken for a spy Insect torments A meeting in the desert Turcoman wigwams A prisoner The Tejend river Boars and lynxes A wet night 162 CHAPTER XVI. ' The ' Queen of the World My personal appearance Reception by the Mervli An awkward position A sanguinary threat First impressions of Merv My residence Under inspection An eager audience The Merv chiefs Showy costumes A Merv Israelite The Ichthyar Petty persecutions -A mischief-making servant A formidable examiner Result of the council Held a prisoner . 173 CHAPTER XVII. My new home A hut interior The Turcoman costume Merv forti- fications Captured cannon Quaint ideas on artillery The great earthwork A weak defence A tour of inspection A naive pro- posal My purpose at Merv My servant's departure . .191 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. PAGK The waterworks Holding the stirrup The guest-chamber How to show gratitude Delights of a siesta A generous host The Benti dam The sluice An awkward crossing A dainty dish Porsa Kala Snakes in the desert Hunting a runaway Glimpse of the old cities Homeward bound . 203 CHAPTER XIX. Makdum Kuli Khan Promised gifts A doubtful ruler Another present Small jealousies Signs of the times A Eussian prisoner 218 CHAPTER XX. A fresh council Political questions I become a Khan An expe- dition A visit to Baba Khan Merv vegetables Peculiarities of teeth The ride to the ruins An ancient city Traces of the past Crumbling palaces Old tombs Giaour Kala Rampart and citadel A caravanserai Brazen vessels Manners of prayer Religious customs Traditions of Alexander Treasure-seekers Tomb of Sultan Sanjar Melon-growing Strange offerings The voiceless wilderness 225 CHAPTER XXI. Mad racing Imitation raiders Ready for combat Heat of the desert Hospitable customs A Turcoman belle Danger of whistling An antique lamp Troubles of the night A cure for wounds Value of stones Snake-killing 249 CHAPTER XXII. The revohition Coming of the Khans A singular spectacle Over- throw of Kadjar The triumvirate A theatrical spectacle Dress Differences of clan Making presents Festivities My surprise Playing the host 261 CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER XXin. PAOF. A dilemma Branding horses A Georgian prisoner Other captives Prisoners in chains The black present A camel's bite Dread of poison Turcoman pipers A morning scene My pets An oil mill Offers of hospitality The Khan's vineyards Tea-drinking Tea etiquette The Guinea worm The Russian prisoner Tor- ture of Kidaieff Offers of ransom A cure for fever . 272 CHAPTER XXIV. Bazaar day An accident The market-place Food supplies Pun- ishments Turcoman steeds The town crier Sheep-tail fat Abundance of game Breakfast difficulties Starving out enemies My smnsa stealer Beg Murad's present Turcoman life Cus- toms Cleverness of women Carpets 292 CHAPTER XXV. Religious proposals Generous offers A request to Teheran Russia leather Raiding The Old Man of the Sword Mourning customs Effects of a storm Shampooing 30& CHAPTER XXVI. Diseases Thirst for remedies An unsatisfied patient Plans for the future A fast for liberty The Khan's proposal A change of front Squeezing a Jew Unwelcome visitors Traits of the people The Moullah's watch Ink v. blacking Marriage Settlement of divorce 318 CHAPTER XXVH. Breach of etiquette Important document My ultimatum Sale of a horse The last arrow ! Largess Summoned An imposing spec- tacle A Turcoman joke My advocate 332 CHAPTER XXVIII. Fresh delays Turcoman inertia Final presents Sun-burning The Tandara Pass Down with fever Back to civilisation . 342 THE STOEY OF MEEV. CHAPTER I. Across the Steppe Delays in landing The Troika The Steppes Russian stations A sporting country Thievish Tartars The Grand Hotel General Lazareff A dreary ride Reaching Baku. I LEFT Trebizond at sunset on Wednesday, February 5, 1879, en route for Central Asia. It was my intention to travel to Central Thibet, but subsequent circum- stances obliged me to alter my resolution, and directed my steps to a locality perhaps not less interesting. I ' started by the English steamer Principe di Carignano,' reaching Batoum early on the morning of the 6th. I found that place wonderfully increased in size, even during the short time which had elapsed since the Rus- sian occupation. The number of houses had almost trebled, and, after the fashion of Russia generally, the majority of these consisted of rum and vodka shops. At least one barrel-organ was to be heard grinding in the streets, and, for the first time in the history of the town, public vehicles the Russian phaeton, or gig plied for ' ' hire. The same afternoon, the Principe di Carignano continued her voyage, arriving at the mouth of the Rion river in two and a half hours. Here one became fully impressed with the necessity felt by Russia for a 2 DELAYS IN LANDING. better naval station than Poti on the Southern Black Sea littoral. The extreme shallowness of the water obliged us to anchor at least a mile and a half from the low pebbly beach, and, owing to the violent off-shore wind which prevailed, which would neither allow us to send boats ashore, nor the usual tug steamer, employed for disem- barking passengers, to come off, two days and a half elapsed before the slightest chance of landing occurred. At length some of the fishing luggers ventured to put out from the river's mouth, and brought us and our baggage ashore. Arrived within the mouth of the river, we were taken in tow by a small steamer, which tugged us a distance of two miles, finally landing us at the town of Poti itself. The river banks on either side presented a dismal aspect. Everything seemed but lately to have been inun- ' ' dated. Eotting snags stuck out from the slimy surface of of the semi-stagnant water ; the lower portion those trees which stood along the margin looked black and rotting, and a general odour of decomposing vegetable matter permeated the air.