Navajo Textiles: 1840 - 1910 Nov. 6 - Dec. 16, 1994 Johnson County CommunityCollege • Galle1yof A.11 Navajo Weaving the Spanish settled in the Rio Grand e Valley in 1598, they brou ght with them By the time the Spanish explorers the long , silky-fleece d churro sheep , discove red the American Southw est native to south ern Spain, to provide in 1540, the Pueblo Indian s had been food and wool for weaving on their weavers of cloth for well over a own version of the Europ ean treadle thou sand years. The Navajo Indians , loom . It wa s not long before yarns wh o had arrived only a hundr ed years spun from Spanish sheep's wool were or so before the Spanish, were not yet wov en into Pueblo cloth on their weavers, but before the advent of the wide, ve,tical loo m and dyed blue 18th centu1y, they too were destined with indigo dye, which the Spanish to beco me renowned for the produ c­ also introdu ced. tivity of their loom s. The Spanish, who Pueblo weaving was forever brou ght their own tradition of wea v­ chang ed. Brazilwoo d, logwood and ing to the Southwest in 1598, forever cochineal dyes came later, but threads altered the course of Pueblo weaving raveled from fine English and Spanish and were instrum ental in shaping the comm ercial cloth provid ed rich, deve lopm ent of that of the Navajo. cochine al-dyed crimson yarns that the Through time, Pueblo, Spanish and Pueblos used to deco rate their cloth in iVJokiSe rape , 1860-1870, 71" x 51", hand-spun avajo each influenced the other in weave , embroide1y and brocade. No native woo l; the blue is dyed with indigo , the materials and dyes, in techniqu es and more beautiful cloths have eve r been black is of und etermined dye, the reel is Bayeta. in design; and all achieved the summit cut from Southw estern loo ms than the of their art during the 19th centwy. Pueblo-embroid ered manta-dresses or with an unbrok en surface, but the The earliest wea ving of the Pueblo shawls of the mid-19th centwy. Navajo woman knelt in front of her was done with the fingers alone, but The comin g of the Spanish had loo m and wove her cloth in segments, by A D. 800 they had developed a true anoth er effect on Southwe stern leaving diagonal joints called "lazy loom upon which they wo ve a wide wea ving. Many Pueblo Indian s, fearful lines" in the web. Where the Pueblos variety of cloths from cotton. When of repress ion by the Spaniards , fled used three cords of two-ply each for to the Navajo homeland in the their selvages, the Navajo began to use mountain ous area north and wes t of two cords of three plies, and w here Santa Fe and , through the 1600s, we re the Pueblos tended to tie off the incorporat ed into the burg eoning corners loosely, if at all, the Navajo Navajo tribe. came to tie the corn ers tightly and When the Navajo first app eared in sew on an extra tassel to protect the histo1y, they were hunt ers, farmers corner. More and more, probabl y and raiders, not wea vers of cloth. But influenced by Spanish weaving, the sometime, probably about the middl e Navajo wove in tapest1y techniqu e, in of the 17th centu1y, the avajos which the warps wer e hidd en by the learned to weave from the Pueblos, weft. It was the tapest1y weave that and by the beginning of the 18th made possible the developm ent and centu1y, the Navajo had adopted the efflorescence of Navajo pattern and Pueb lo loom and we re weaving design, for they seemingl y never enough cloth and garm ents for their adopted the brocad e weave or the own use and tradin g their surplu s to embroid e1y that the Pueblo used for Spanish and Pueblos alike. their most effective decoration. Among the Pueblos, exce pt Stripes we re the most common possibly Zuni, the wea vers we re men, form of decoration in early but , among the Navajo, women Southw estern weaving - Pueblo, Serape Style Ponc ho, circa 1840, 79" x 52", became the weave rs. The Pueblo Spanish and Navajo alike. Stripes hand-spun native woo l; the white is natur al, th blue is dyed with indigo, the gree n is a weaver passed the weft completely might be narrow or wid e, simple or vege table dye, the reel is Bayeta. from edge to edge, leaving the cloth compound , evenly spaced over the fabric or clustered into zon es, but they formed a simp le and pleasing decoration. Early colors were largely confin ed to the natural cream y whit e and golden to da rk bro wn of the churro shee p 's wool, enriched by the various shad es of blue derived from indigo. Later, native vegetal yellows , green and black wer e add ed, and reds from raveled cloth or comm ercial yarns widened the color pa lette. About 1870, lavend er, red and orange aniline dyes were introdu ced. Compl ex stripes containing various figures were add ed to make mor e elaborat e patt erns, but stripes have neve r bee n compl etely replaced. The Navajo wo ve many fabrics in the Pueblo wid er-than-long tradition. Paramount amon g these were the Chief Pattern Blanke t, Second Phase, 1865-1875, 57" x 76", hand -sp un native woo l; the reel striped should er blankets or "chief s is aniline clyecl, the white and brow n are unclyecl, the blue is indigo dyed. blankets." During the 18th centu1y , diamonds in the center of each side serapes that are know n," and by 1880 these were deco rated only w ith alter­ and end and quatt er diamonds in they had fully deve lope d the style that nating brown-black and white stripes each corner. The bea uty of the Chief marked the Classic period of weav ing. of various width s. By 1800, the style Blankets lies in the subtle and harm o­ The terraced, or stepp ed-edge triangle, known as the First Phase Chief Blanket nious relation of the simple figures is the hallmark of Classic design, a had made its app earance . The brown and the simple but dignified use of style that app ears to have been adapte d end stripes had been wid ened and color. They we re made to be wo rn , from the designs on their basketty. we re embellished by a pair of dark and the fineness of weave caused Regardless of how com plex a Classic blue stripes, while the black center them to drape around the hum an form blanket design may seem , it is always was made much wider and had two and move as the figure moved. In this composed of rows or stripes of ter­ pairs of blue stripes. In between ends they achieved their elega nce . raced triangles arranged in various and center, the man 's blank et had It was on the serape, wove n in the ways , solid or hollow , emphasized w ide alternating stripes of black and Spanish longer-than -wide tradition, by a rich contrast of colors. A row of whit e, whi le the smaller woman 's that the Navajos lavished their creative triangles arranged base-to-base forms blank et had narrower stripes of black genius. Stripes we re always a part of series of diamonds; arranged point-to­ and gray. Somewhat later, the blue the serape deco rative scheme. On e point, they result in rows of negative stripes were occasion ally bord ered striped pattern that consists of panels diamonds. Offset and opp osed , the by ve1y narrow red stripes. By mid­ of narrow alternating brown and blue triangles create a negative zigzag centu1y , small red rectangles had been stripes separated by wider bands of stripe. Sometimes, hollow diamonds in introdu ced into the ends and centers white came to be known as the white against a crimson groun d are of each of the blue stripes to produ ce "Moki" pattern. The soft, glow ing expanded into a diamond net with or the so-called Second Phase Chief quality of the indigo blue contrasted without smaller diamonds inside. Blank et. Ten years later, the Navajo with the silky natural bro wn wool to Occasionally, the ground consists of began to use terraced triangles in produ ce a fabric of subdu ed richness fine stripes instead of solid color. place of the red rectang les, and by and simple beauty. Usually, the designs are arranged in a 1865 the classic Third Phase Chief Sometime about the midd le of the three-panel layout with large, bold Blank et had emerged. These were 18th centu1y , the Navajo began to figures in the center and smaller, more mark ed by a central terraced diamond break away from stripes for their ordered, complex stripes across the of red, which expanded into the field serapes. According to the Spanish, by ends. Large terraced triangles we re of black and whit e stripes, as did half 1778 they "made the best and finest often superimposed over the corners of the blanket and freq uently in the center of the ends as well. Most Classic serapes we re wo ven in crimson from raveled cloth, indigo blue and white, with rarely a touch of black or native yellow or green.