• 2002 AUG. #47 DevilsDevils TowerTower Management Plan to be revised your climbing future Access Fund negotiates for HorseHorse PensPens 4040 Climbing access endangered at CaveCave RockRock Note from Sam Davidson, Executive Director I have always believed that climbing is about more – much more – than simple physical exertion in high places. LETTER FROM THE For many climbers, our experience on the EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR . p. 2 boulders, crags and mountains is enhanced by contact with wildlife, by glimpses of POLICY UPDATE Cave Rock, NV and Rescue secret treasures and by an awareness of Fees . p. 3,7 those who came before you. Many of our best and most famous climbing areas have AREA REPORTS Regional access news significant historic, archeological, and cul- across the nation . p.4-5 tural values. Since our inception, the Access ADOPT-A-CRAG DAY . p.6 Fund has worked to preserve climbing oppor- tunities in such areas. However, climbing is LETTERS Response to Access Fund name not appropriate everywhere or always. So we change . p. 8 have worked to support management policies that balance climbing access with protection CORPORATE PARTNERS Access Fund Corporate Partners. p. 9 of historic resources and cultural values. This is why we support the “voluntary PLANNED GIVING. p.10 closure” of Devils Tower to climbing in the month of June, to respect American Indian EVENTS PINNACLE AND beliefs and ceremonies. It is why we contin- THANK YOUS. p. 11 ue to work with the Texas Department of Parks and Wildlife on educational initiatives The Access Fund is a national, nonprofit to protect rock art at Hueco Tanks, and why organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open & conserving the climbing envi- we support the 50-foot “No Climbing” zone ronment. Since its incorporation in 1990, the around rock art at Red Rocks. Also, it is why Access Fund has provided more than $1 mil- we will challenge a Forest Service decision to lion for climbing conservation and education prohibit all climbing at Cave Rock. across the US. We’ve paid for land purchases, climbers’ campgrounds, educational brochures, So why doesn’t the Fund simply withdraw toilets, signs, and scientific research on from the Cave Rock conflict since there are climbers’ impact on birds of prey and cliff- other good crags in the area? The answer is dwelling plants. For more information, please more a matter of precedent than access to a contact us. single crag. There is a growing bias against www.accessfund.org climbing in areas with historical, archeologi- phone: 303-545-6772 cal, or cultural values. Increasingly, land address: P.O. Box 17010 managers are using hypothetical impacts to Boulder, CO 80308 justify closing climbing areas. The Constitution says the government Vertical Times is the membership newsletter cannot prohibit any interest group from of the Access Fund published six times a year using public lands because another interest in February, April, June, August, October, and December. Authorizing organization: group objects for religious reasons. The Fund The Access Fund, 2475 Broadway, supports progressive management that hon- Boulder, CO 80304. ors American Indian beliefs and protects his- This issue date: August 1, 2002. Volume #47. toric resources; however, climbing need not Price: $30/year. Editorial Director: Sam Davidson be eliminated to achieve these goals. Editor: John Heisel To prevent wide- spread closures, Cover: There is no mistaking the awesome monolith of Devils Tower. A “voluntary closure” the Fund is fight- each June successfully preserves cultural values ing for this princi- and climbing opportunities, but this policy could ple. We need your change as the Park Service revises the Climbing help—now—to Heisel John Management Plan. succeed. Please read our Action (photo by Bill Hatcher) Alert on Cave Rock on the next page The “Stary Eyed Man” at Hueco Tanks, TX and take action. 2 Cave Rock, NV Cave Rock, a well- known crag on the south shore of Lake Tahoe in Nevada, will likely be closed to climbing some- time this year. A strong and rapid response from climbers is required to stop this closure. The Access Fund has been working to keep Cave Rock open Paul Minault collection Minault Paul for climbing since 1995. Cave Rock has been popular with climbers for more than 20 years, and provides sport climbing opportunities even in winter, when most other local cliffs are unclimbable. Cave Rock straddles US Highway 50 (four lanes tunnel directly through the formation) so local climbers never imagined there would be a problem with climbing there, other than Cave Rock, Nevada. The climbing area is above the possible safety issues. It was a surprise when westbound lanes of Highway 50. the Washoe tribe complained about climbers The Fund believes that the vast majority to the US Forest Service, which owns the of climbers in the United States are sympa- portion of the rock where the climbing thetic to Native American concerns and will routes are located. sacrifice climbing opportunities to respect Since that time the Fund, working with Native American religion without the burden local climbers, has tried to negotiate a com- of exclusionary regulations. This belief is promise, which would keep Cave Rock open substantiated by the results of the voluntary for climbing on a limited basis. We have closure at Devil's Tower, which has led to a repeatedly suggested solutions similar to remarkable 85% (or more) decline in climber that in effect at Devils Tower - "voluntary visitation during the month of June. closures" for limited time periods. We agreed The Fund believes that climbers will and to remove some routes and that no new should support a similar policy at Cave Rock, routes should be established. and that the Forest Service should make a Despite our efforts, the Forest Service voluntary closure their preferred planning threatened to close Cave Rock several years alternative. The Fund will continue to work ago. At that time the Fund was successful in to convince the Forest Service to adopt a convincing the agency that Cave Rock should more progressive policy for Cave Rock, but remain open to climbing, but that a joint we need your help. Please write the Forest education effort would encourage climbers to Service and tell them that a voluntary clo- climb elsewhere out of respect for Washoe sure at Cave Rock is the best way to balance religious beliefs. recreational and Native American interests. However, in May 2002 Regional Write to: Coordinator Paul Minault (former recipient of the Mark Bebie Award, the Access Fund's Maribeth Gustafson, Forest Supervisor highest honor for climber activism) met with United States Forest Service a high-level Forest Service official with the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit. This 870 Emerald Bay Road, Suite 1 official informed Minault that Cave Rock will South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 likely be closed to climbing because of the religious concerns of the Washoe. See our website at The Fund works to educate climbers about Native American religious beliefs and cere- www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_tool_cav monies, where these affect climbing erock.html for a sample letter to the Forest resources or access. This is consistent with Service on the Cave Rock issue. For more the Access Fund's policy of developing coop- information, call Jason Keith, AF Policy erative, non-regulatory solutions to compet- Analyst, at 303-545-6772 x102. ing uses of public lands. •Policy Update continued on page 7 3 SOUTHEAST containing the Boat Rock boulders. Boat Access Fund Rock is home to the best rock climbing in Negotiates for the metro Atlanta area. The purchase of this Southeast Climbing tract will prevent the land from being sold to In late May, Shawn developers. Tierney, Access Fund Access and Horse Pens-40, one of the finest boulder- Acquisitions Director, met with ing areas in the Southeast was closed last local climbers at Boat Rock, GA fall when the owners of the privately owned and Horse Pens-40, AL to make “park” ran into financial difficulties. Two progress on preserving access to days prior to the Access Fund visit, the prop- these regionally significant boul- erty was sold to a local businessman who dering areas. AF board member Gene Kistler intends to keep the area open for festivals, also made the trip to Horse Pens. The Access events, and climbing. Local climbers and the Fund recently provided a $10,000 grant to Access Fund will work with the new owner the Southeastern Climbers Coalition to be who has expressed a willingness to keep the used toward the purchase of 7.7-acres of land area open for climbing. photos by John Heisel, Brad McLeod, Shawn Tierney Heisel, Brad by John photos Upper photos: Atlanta skyline, Boat Rock parcel that the Access Fund helped purchase, and demolition of near- by boulders for housing development. Lower photos: Horse Pens 40 sign, barn, boulders, and Gene Kistler, Access Fund Regional Coordinator sampling some Southeast Sandstone at HP-40. Kistler joined Shawn Tierney in a recent site visit to HP-40. 4 Shawn Tierney Shawn Tierney 51 students from the Golden High School/American Red Cross Youth Corps volunteered for a Golden High School “signature project” at the Access Fund’s North Table Mountain property in May. independently, motivate others and follow WEST through to completion. If interested, contact Golden Cliffs Paul Minault at: [email protected] Preserve, CO In early May, 51 ALASKA students from the Golden High School/ Clean Mountain Can Project American Red Cross Youth Corps completed a (Report submitted by Roger Robinson, National Golden High School “signature project” at Park Service) the Access Fund’s North Table Mountain I would like to report that the Clean property near Golden, CO.