TemaNord 2014:538 TemaNord Ved Stranden 18 DK-1061 Copenhagen K www.norden.org Towards a Nordic textile strategy Collection, sorting, reuse and recycling of textiles Towards a Nordic textile strategy This report is the primary outcome from Part I of the project “Towards a Nordic textile strategy - Collection, sorting, reuse and recycling of textiles” initiated by the Nordic Waste Group (NAG). The report for Part 2 will be published in December 2014. This report summarizes the work carried out in 2013. The three sub- reports will be the basis for the work to be performed in 2014. The reports for 2013 are: • International market survey of textile flows in the Nordic region and the market for collection, sorting, preparing for reuse, reselling and waste management of textiles. • Collection and sorting systems A total of 19 collection systems are compared for collection flows, contamination levels, cost, suitability of collected textile and availability for the consumer. Four sorting systems are described. • Technology review of sorting and recycling of textiles that describes available and future technology. The report is part of the Nordic Prime Ministers’ overall green growth initiative: “The Nordic Region – leading in green growth.” Read more in the web magazine “Green Growth the Nordic Way” at www.norden.org/ greengrowth. TemaNord 2014:538 ISBN 978-92-893-2794-7 ISBN 978-92-893-2795-4 (EPUB) ISSN 0908-6692 TN2014538 omslag.indd 1 27-05-2014 14:17:03 Towards a Nordic textile strategy Collection, sorting, reuse and recycling of textiles David Palm, Maria Elander, David Watson, Nikola Kiørboe, Hanna Salmenperä, Helena Dahlbo, Katja Moliis, Kari-Anne Lyng, Clara Valente, Stefán Gíslason, Haben Tekie and Tomas Rydberg TemaNord 2014:538 Towards a Nordic textile stra-tegy Collection, sorting, reuse and recycling of textiles David Palm, Maria Elander, David Watson, Nikola Kiørboe, Hanna Salmenperä, Helena Dahlbo, Katja Moliis, Kari-Anne Lyng, Clara Valente, Stefán Gíslason, Haben Tekie andTomas Rydberg ISBN 978-92-893-2794-7 ISBN 978-92-893-2795-4 (EPUB) http://dx.doi.org/10.6027/TN2014-538 TemaNord 2014:538 ISSN 0908-6692 © Nordic Council of Ministers 2014 Layout: Hanne Lebech Cover photo: Johannes Jansson This publication has been published with financial support by the Nordic Council of Ministers. However, the contents of this publication do not necessarily reflect the views, policies or recom- mendations of the Nordic Council of Ministers. www.norden.org/en/publications Nordic co-operation Nordic co-operation is one of the world’s most extensive forms of regional collaboration, involv- ing Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, and the Faroe Islands, Greenland, and Åland. Nordic co-operation has firm traditions in politics, the economy, and culture. It plays an im- portant role in European and international collaboration, and aims at creating a strong Nordic community in a strong Europe. Nordic co-operation seeks to safeguard Nordic and regional interests and principles in the global community. Common Nordic values help the region solidify its position as one of the world’s most innovative and competitive. Nordic Council of Ministers Ved Stranden 18 DK-1061 Copenhagen K Phone (+45) 3396 0200 www.norden.org Content Key messages ........................................................................................................................................... 7 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 9 Background ....................................................................................................................................... 9 The project ..................................................................................................................................... 10 Summary of the reports .................................................................................................................... 11 Sammanfattning av rapporterna ................................................................................................... 15 International market survey ........................................................................................................... 19 1. Introduction and aim .................................................................................................................. 21 2. Overview of textile flows in the Nordic region.................................................................. 23 2.1 Denmark ............................................................................................................................ 23 2.2 Finland ................................................................................................................................ 24 2.3 Iceland ................................................................................................................................ 25 2.4 Norway ............................................................................................................................... 26 2.5 Sweden ............................................................................................................................... 28 3. The Nordic market for used textiles and textile waste for recycling ........................ 31 3.1 Denmark ............................................................................................................................ 31 3.2 Finland ................................................................................................................................ 37 3.3 Iceland ................................................................................................................................ 42 3.4 Norway ............................................................................................................................... 45 3.5 Sweden ............................................................................................................................... 50 3.6 Summary of Nordic Flows and Markets ................................................................. 59 4. The European market for used textiles and textile waste for recycling .................. 65 4.1 German market for used textiles............................................................................... 66 4.2 UK market for used textiles ........................................................................................ 67 4.3 Europe in general ........................................................................................................... 68 5. The global market for used textiles and textile waste for recycling .......................... 69 5.1 Actors in the market for collecting and sorting used textiles ......................... 69 5.2 Global trade patterns of used textiles ..................................................................... 70 5.3 Global recycling of used textiles ................................................................................ 71 6. Summary of main drivers and barriers for development of markets for used textiles ................................................................................................................................... 73 6.1 Main drivers ..................................................................................................................... 74 6.2 Main barriers.................................................................................................................... 76 References ............................................................................................................................................. 81 Collection and sorting systems ...................................................................................................... 85 1. Introduction................................................................................................................................... 87 2. Collection systems ....................................................................................................................... 89 2.1 Operational collection systems ................................................................................. 89 2.2 Pilots and future possible collection systems .................................................... 101 2.3 Summary of benefits and disadvantages for collection systems ................. 108 3. Sorting systems .......................................................................................................................... 111 3.1 Manual sorting............................................................................................................... 111 3.2 Semi-automated sorting ............................................................................................ 113 3.3 RFID sorting ................................................................................................................... 114 3.4 NIR-sorting ..................................................................................................................... 116 3.5 Summary of benefits and disadvantages for sorting systems ...................... 117 4. Conclusions and recommendations .................................................................................... 119 References ........................................................................................................................................... 121 Technology review of sorting and recycling of textiles ......................................................