Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. April 2013 Volume XVII, Number 7 Cooperative Supper Theme: CALENDAR CHoW Meetings “Medieval Food History” April 14 Sunday, April 14 Cooperative Supper 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. (Note: time change (note time change) 4:00 to 6:00 p.m.) Alexandria House 400 Madison Street Plates, cups, bowls, eating Alexandria, VA 22314 utensils, and napkins will be provided. t the March CHoW meeting, members But please bring anything voted for “Medieval Food History” as the April supper theme. The Middle needed for serving your A Ages or Medieval period is a stretch of Euro- contribution, as well as pean history that lasted from the 5th until the a copy of your recipe, 15th centuries. It began with the collapse of the the name of its source, Western Roman Empire, and was followed by and any interesting the Renaissance and the Age of Discovery. The information related to the Middle Ages is the middle period of the tradi- recipe you have chosen. tional division of Western history into Classi- cal, Medieval, and Modern periods. The period May 5 is subdivided into the Early Middle Ages, the Program High Middle Ages, and the Late Middle Ages. Up to the start of the Middle Ages when Wil- Amy Riolo and PHOTO: John, Duke of Berry enjoying a grand liam the Conqueror and the Normans invaded Sheilah Kaufman meal. The Duke is sitting at the high table under a England the only real influence on the types “Turkish Cuisine and the luxurious baldaquin in front of the fireplace, tended to by several servants including a carver. On the of food consumed had been from the Romans. Ottoman Culinary Legacy table to the left of the Duke is a golden salt cellar, The violent times of the Dark Ages led to a in the Arab World” or nef, in the shape of a ship; Très Riches Heures du primitive society lacking in elegance or refine- Duc de Berry, ca 1410. ment. Early Middle Ages Food was basic and the ingredients were home grown. 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. This all changed in 1066 with the Norman Conquest and between 1095 - 1270 when Eu- Bethesda-Chevy Chase ropeans looked to the Eastern World and joined in the crusades. The Normans were in- Services Center, fluenced by French and Scandinavian food. The Normans were known to document reci- 4805 Edgemoor Lane, pes although generally they passed form the master cook to the apprentice. The tastes Bethesda, MD 20814 of the Norman nobility were far more sophisticated than the English. The Normans also enjoyed feasts and special occasions when lavish meals and food could be served. The influence of the Crusades had a startling effect on Middle Ages Food. Kings, Knights, Lords and other crusaders had travelled 3000 miles to reach the Holy Lands. And during their travels they were introduced to the spices which were added to differ- ent foods by different cultures. These new ideas about Middle Ages food were brought back by the Crusaders and new foods and spices were introduced to the European menu. For more background and references on food during the Medieval period, see page 7. Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC) www.chowdc.org founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization Dues to: Bruce Reynolds dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, cuisines, and culi- 6804 Hampshire Rd. nary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the McLean, VA 22101 world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law. What Happened at the Sunday, March 10 CHoW Meeting? President CiCi Williamson called the meeting to order at 2:43 p.m. There were 35 attendees plus one visitor. Though “Civil War Bake Ovens in the the meeting was posted in The Washington Post, there were U.S. Capitol Building in D.C.” no additional visitors. When Fort Sumter was attacked ANNOUNCEMENTS: To reach a wider audience on your in April of 1861, President Lincoln announcements of events, symposiums, culinary tours, sent out a call for troops. Four blogs, exhibits and other CHoW related matters, members thousand were quartered in the are reminded and encouraged to submit the information in Capitol, among them, a brick mason advance to CHoW Line Editor Dianne Hennessy King or in the Massachusetts 6th Regiment, CiCi for the [email protected]. volunteers in the Senate, who or- ganized the building of ovens and Francine Berkowitz advised that American Institute of running the bakery. Food And Wine events will extend the member rate to The huge amount of flour needed CHoW members to its activities posted on the google to make up to 58,000 loaves a day, group. The next event will be the “Taste of Argentina” on was purchased from local mills and March 23 at Tango Pastry in Alexandria. further north, and stored in “Wash- ington’s Crypt” and in the hallways. When needed, the FIELD TRIP: Quentin Looney, Secretary for Membership, 195 pound barrels were rolled down planks on the main arranged for a tour of Smithsonian’s “FOOD: Transforming staircase. To make a batch of 1,392 loaves of bread, they the American Table” with curator Rayna Green on March used 24 gallons of yeast, 36 gallons of cold water, 6 barrels 19, 2013. of flour, and 13 ½ pounds of salt with a total of six hours of risings. ELECTIONS: At the April meeting, the floor will be open for nominations for the Board, and the slate of officers and After a few weeks, most of the soldiers were transferred directors will be presented to the membership. Voting will from the Capitol, but the ovens and bakers remained. Fur- be held at the annual meeting in May. Board members will ther months of political wrangling were necessary before serve a one-year term. the ovens were removed and the baking was done at other facilities. During the four years of the war, the Capitol APRIL COOPERATIVE SUPPER: CiCi distributed ballots Bakery and its successor on G Street (behind the Water- listing members’ suggestions from the February meeting gate) produced fifty million loaves of bread. for voting on a theme for the supper. The winning theme is Medieval Foods/European Food pre-new-world. Resourc- By Patricia Bixler Reber es will be listed in the April newsletter. http://researchingfoodhistory.blogspot.com CHoW BROCHURES: CHoW has updated its tri-fold brochures with membership information for distribution. REFRESHMENTS: Thank you to our members: Members can contact CiCi for copies to distribute to your Francine Berkowitz: Girl Scouts cookies, 101st year of groups or individuals. Scouting Felice Caspar: Southern black cake (American Harvest) WHATZIT: Judy Newton brought in a ceramic look- Beverly Firme: Lavender brownies ing tea pot with two handles at right angles on the rotund Claudia Kousoulas: Anadama bread (James Beard) and body, a lid and a truncated spout. No one guessed that it rum raisin butter was a tea pot for a disabled person. Quentin Looney: Almond and pistachio biscotti Jane Olmsted: Tapenade PROGRAM: Vice President Katy Hayes introduced Pat Reber: Pumpkin pickles (sweet) CHoW member Pat Bixler Reber whose presentation was on “Civil War Bake Ovens in the U.S. Capitol Building.” Anne Whitaker for her continuous and generous monthly (See summary at right.) contribution of providing beverages and supplies. We were glad to see Anne return after a family emergency. DOOR PRIZES: Members attending the monthly meet- ings can enter for for a door prize. Thank you to Claudia The meeting adjourned at 4:22 p.m. Thank you to the Kousoulas for donating the cookbooks. members who volunteered to reset the meeting room. Respectfully submitted, Audrey Hong, Recording Secretary 2 CHoW Line NOMINEES FOR 2013-14 BOARD OF DIRECTORS CHoW Programs 2012-2013 September 9, 2012. Deb Peterson, “Packaging in the 18th In the March CHoW Line, we had room to include the bios Century: What Came in What?” of only three CHoW members nominated for the 2013-14 Board. Following are two additional bios. The remaining October 14, 2012. Jim Gibb, “Making Cheese: Cheese two will be in the May CHoW Line. Factories and the Transformation of New York State” President - Katy Hayes (bio in March issue) November 11, 2012. (Veteran’s Day). Shirley Cherkasky Vice President - Sheilah Kaufman (bio in March issue) & Claire Cassidy, “More Than Bars, Brats, and Beer: Wisconsin’s Traditional Foods“ Treasurer - Stacey FitzSimmons (in May issue) Recording Secretary - Beverly Firme December 9, 2012. Michael Olmert, “The Architecture of Membership Secretary - Quentin Looney (in May issue) Taste: Building, Working, & Living in the 18th Century Director - Claudia Kousoulas (bio in March issue) Kitchen“ Director - Bruce Reynolds Past President - CiCi Willliamson (ex officio) January 13, 2013. Regina Newport & Evelyn Bunoan, “Philippine Cuisine: History and Culture in a Caldero” Candidate for Recording Secretary: Beverly Firme February 10, 2013. Scott Seligman and Sasha Gong, “A Revolution is Not a Dinner Party: The Cultural Beverly works for WealthEngine, a local Revolution and the Cultural Revolution Cookbook” software company and is a food blogger with an interest in culinary history, nu- March 10, 2013. Pat Reber, “Civil War Bake Ovens in the trition and global cuisine. Her 2011 col- U.S. Capitol Building in D.C.” umn for AOL’s Bethesda Patch, ‘Green Around Town’ gave Beverly the oppor- April 14, 2013. Cooperative Supper, Alexandria House. tunity to write about her interest in local Theme: “Medieval Food History.” farms, organic food and healthy eating. Amy Riolo & Sheilah Kaufman, “Turkish Cuisine Since becoming a member of CHoW three years ago, Bev- May 5, 2013.