Lifestyle 2 1 THE 1) Roger Dubuis’Dubuis’ ExcaliburExcalibur SpiderSpider Pocket TimeTime Instrumentnt (S$680,000):: Two years ago, the brand launched thehe gravity-defyinggravity-defying Excalibur Quatuor which boasts a movementovement with fourfour sprung balances. Clients were flown firstfirst class to Switzerland to check out the WONDER radical creation.ation. Roger Dubuis says that the watch has sold well. TheThe movement is now fittedfitted into this pocket watch whichch also feature two of RogerRoger DubuisDubuis’’ signature complications:omplications: tthehe ppatentedatented doubledouble OF IT ALL moon-crescentcent powerpower reserve displaydisplay andand its renowned doubledouble flyingflying tourbillon. The hand- BY CHUANG PECK MING wound movementvement is housedhoused in a 48 mm titanium case,ase, andand thethe watcwatchh is llimitedimited WatchesWatches & Wonders (WW) is settlingsettling downdow to be a regular to 28 pieces.s. annual watch show in HongHong KongKong forfor Asian watch sellers and buyers. After a shaky start threethr years ago in the 2) Vacheronron Constantin’sConstantin’s formerformer British colony,colony, the luxuryluxury watch fair appears to Referencee 57260 have finally found its footingfooting whenwh the three-day event (price unavailable):vailable):: “57” was stagedstaged last month at the Hong Kong Convention refers to thee numbernumber ofof and Exhibition Centre. FabienneFabien Lupo, chairman complicationsons in this and managingmanaging director of theth Foundation de la pocket watchch anandd Haute Horlogerie,Horlogerie, the body behind WW, has stated “260” is thee brand’sbrand’s 260th anniversaryiversary onon the eve of this year’s exhibitionexh that Hong Kong this year. Vacheronacheron remains WW’s home, despitedespit rumours to made a similarmilar super thethe contrary.contrary. complicationon 10 yyearsears “Our objectiveobjective is alwaysalways Hong Kong,” she says. ago to celebratebrate its “We have chosen HongHong KongKong from the first time, 250th birthday.hday. But thatthat and we will remain in HongHong KongK for sure.” pocket watchch has onlonlyy 16 Even thoughthough there has beenbe a recent drop in complications.ons. ReReff 57260 is imports of Swiss luxury timepiecestimepi into Hong Kong, certainly thehe most complicatedcomplicated the Special Administrative RegionRegio is still the world’s watch createdted bbyy Vacheron, biggestbiggest watch market. And the biggestbig customers are if not all watchatch brands. The last justjust next door, in China. watch with tthehe most complicationscomplications AccordingAccording to Samuel Lee, CEO ofof Elegant Watch, a Hong – 33 – was CalibreCalibre 89, made in 1989 by KongKong distributor for watch brands owned byb Swiss luxury group Patek Philippe.ppe. Vacheron’sVacheron’s unique piece, orderedordered Richemont, HongHong KongKong will continue to be the mostmo important watch by a customermer whose identityidentity is keptkept secret, is the work ofof marketmarket – especiallyespecially forfor thosethose withwith highhigh value.value. “With“With itsits longlo history of selling three master watchmakers and has taken eight years to finish. watches, strong sales background, abundant funding and centralised location, Apart from the classic complications, Ref 57260 also boasts Hong Kong is believed to have a great advantage over other regions in long- new ones like the Hebraic perpetual calendar and the dual term development,” he says. retrograde rattrapante chronograph. At the heart of the watch When it took off in late 2013, WW was an Asian offshoot of the Salon is a hand-wound movement with 60 hours’ power reserve. International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) – the mega watch show dominated The movement is housed in a 98 mm white gold case. by Richemont brands and held yearly in the Swiss city of Geneva. The exhibitors and timepieces on display at WW were no different from those at SIHH earlier in 3) Officine’s Radiomir 1940 Tourbillon the year. GMT Oro Rosso (S$219,400): The immediate thing you will notice about this complication Some new models – not those already unveiled in SIHH – were launched is the skeletal features on what appears to be in WW last year, but it is only in 2015 that the Hong Kong watch show has a dial-less face. They are actually parts of the started to hold its own. The participating brands are still the same at the two watch’s movement reduced to their essential exhibitions, but they have introduced not only newer but more substantial structure. The hand-wound movement with pieces at WW this year. a tourbillon regulator, resting in a 48 mm There are a fair number of new models for ladies as well as pocket watches red gold case, has three barrels which give and clocks. But what really stands out are several key launches: Vacheron the timepiece a power reserve of six days. The Constantin's most complicated watch; Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Geophysic line; tourbillon cage completes a rotation in 30 instead Panerai’s latest movement; Piaget’s first complication for women; and A Lange of the traditional 60 seconds – and it rotates on & Sohne’s limited edition timepiece in honey gold. a perpendicular instead of a parallel axis. This What follows, in the first of two parts, are highlights of the timepieces makes the watch more accurate. The complication presented by the 12 brands which took part in WW 2015. theSMEmagazine 25 Lifestyle has two sub-dials – for the seconds and am/pm indicator – decorated with sunny colours. Along with miniature which are an integral part of the movement. The linear hour- paintings and diamonds, it has a buttercup, daffodil and 14) A Lange & Sohne’s 1815 Chronograph markers and numbers, all coated in ecru Super-LumiNova, chickweed engraved on a mother of pearl dial with a bezel (S$67,700), a chronograph with flyback function, are fixed directly to the black flange. made up of three rings of precious stones. is a re-issue of a previous model which boasts black details and blue steel hands. The new version, in 4) Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic True Seconds: 9) A Lange & Sohne’s 1815 200th Anniversary F A a limited 15 pieces, features an argente colour dial Don’t let its simple and uncluttered look fool you. The watch, Lange (S$48,300) celebrates the brand’s founder’s 200th printed with blue Arabic numerals in a 39.5 mm which comes in a 39.6 mm steel (S$13,300) or pink gold case birthday. It appeared earlier in the year in platinum. The white gold case. (S$25,900), is driven by a new sophisticated movement that latest version is in Lange’s proprietary honey gold, which is is constructed to reduce air friction and increase precision. paler but harder than normal gold. The 40 mm hand-wound 15) Cartier’s High Jewellery Cristallin Watch, one Its seconds hand moves in “jumps”, at one jump per second timepiece, in a limited edition of 200 pieces, is only the third of three new high jewellery timepieces, is a unique piece – no ordinary feat for an automatic Lange release in honey gold. The first, issued in 2010, was the that has taken around 1,000 hours to create. The creation mechanical movement. True set which also pays homage to F A Lange. The second was of this white gold, diamond-decked and rock crystal Seconds is also a travelling a very limited (15 pieces) Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le watch involved multiple crafts, of which the rock crystal watch – the crown in Merite Handwerkunst, launched the following year. 5 work remains one of the most complex – both in terms of position one sets cutting and obtaining the desired prism. the jumping hours 10) Piaget’s Emperador Coussin XL Lune 14 17 corresponding to Astronomique (S$183,000): One of 38 pieces in a 16) Baume & Mercier’s Promesse Jade 15 16 the city that you collection called “Secrets & Lights – A Mythical Journey by (S$17,000), a ladies’ timepiece in a limited edition are currently in, and Piaget”, this moon-phase complication showcases the craft of eight pieces, is also made for the brand’s 185th the date. of enamelling and hand-engraving. This is displayed in anniversary. Its standout feature is a jade bezel ringed by the antique map and ocean on its dial, held by a 46.5 mm 61 diamonds. Housed in the watch’s 34 mm steel case is a 5) Baume & Mercier’s Clifton 1830 Five-minute cushion-shaped pink gold case. The map and ocean are quartz movement. Repeater Pocket Watch (S$75,000) is the brand’s first champleve enamelled and decorated with hand-engraving pocket watch, made to celebrate its 185th birthday. Only and miniature enamelled details, like the nautical compass 17) One of nine models in Van Cleef & Arpels’ 30 pieces are produced. The minute repeater’s 50 mm motif. The large moon phase at six o’clock is as accurate iconic Cadenas collection (S$44,800-129,000), red gold case holds a skeleton hand-wound movement as Limelight Stella’s. Pumping the watch is an automatic inspired by the Duchess of Windsor and launched designed by Baume & Mercier. movement with three-day power reserve. 7 in 1935, the Cadenas Sertive Pavee is paved with diamonds on white gold. The timepiece, available in a 6) Piaget’s Limelight Stella is the brand’s first 11) Richard Mille’s Tourbillon RM 26-02 Evil Eye leather strap, is equipped with a quartz movement. complication watch for women – and it got Hong Kong (536,500 Swiss francs or S$780,236) is “a new talisman 18 19 actress Carina Lau to help launch the timepiece at WW. to protect against . negative energies in the 21st 18) Officine Panerai’s Radiomir 1940 3 Days The Limelight Stella comes in a 36 mm white or pink century”. Fashioned from 3N red gold, the flamessa and d 6 Acciaio (S$10,900) and 3 Days Oro Rosso 20 gold case housing an automatic movement.