6 CONTENTS Overview map 4–5 Introduction 10 Contents 7 First edition 2010 Published by Blue Guides Limited, a Somerset Books Company THE GUIDE Winchester House, Deane Gate Avenue, Taunton, Somerset TA1 2UH www.blueguides.com The Argo-Saronic Islands Astypálaia 311 ‘Blue Guide’ is a registered trademark. Introduction 11 Chálki 319 Text © Blue Guides Limited 2010 Aegina 13 Kárpathos 324 Hydra 26 Kasos 336 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by Poros 33 Kastellórizo 341 any means—photographic, electronic or mechanical—without permission of the publisher. Salamis 38 Symi 347 ISBN 978–1–905131–35–8 Spétses 44 Tilos 357 Nísyros 364 A CIP catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library. The Cyclades Kos 371 Introduction 49 Kálymnos 395 Distributed in the United States of America by W.W. Norton & Company, Inc. Northern & Central Cyclades Leros 409 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110. Syros 55 Patmos 416 Delos & Rheneia 64 Lípsi, Arkí & Agathonísi 427 The Greek islands were originally included in Blue Guide Greece (Stuart Rossiter 1st edition Mykonos 83 1967, 2nd 1973, 3rd 1977, 4th 1981) and Robin Barber (5th 1988, 6th 1995, revised 2001). This practice ended with the 7th edition (Sherry Marker and James Pettifer, 2006). This book Tinos 91 The Eastern Aegean Islands on the Aegean islands draws on previous editions but is largely new material. Andros 100 Introduction 430 Paros 109 Chios 432 The editors and publisher have made reasonable efforts to ensure the accuracy of all Southern & Eastern Cyclades Foúrni 457 the information in Blue Guide Greece the Aegean Islands; however, they can accept no Naxos 127 Ikaría 459 responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. Ios 155 Oinoússes 469 Santorini 161 Psará 471 Statement of editorial independence: Blue Guides, their authors and editors, are prohibited Anáphi 181 Samos 473 from accepting payment from any restaurant, hotel, gallery or other establishment for its Amorgós 184 inclusion in this guide, or on www.blueguides.com, or for a more favourable mention than would otherwise have been made. Lesser Cyclades 195 The Northern Aegean Islands Western Cyclades Introduction 499 All other acknowledgements, photo credits and copyright information Kea 200 Lesbos 501 are given on p. 680, which forms part of this copyright page. Kythnos 210 Lemnos 525 Sériphos 214 Ághios Efstrátios 537 Siphnos 219 Samothrace 539 Your views on this book would be much appreciated. We welcome not only specific Milos 229 Thasos 551 comments, suggestions or corrections, but any more general views you may have: how this Kímolos 240 book enhanced your visit, how it could have been more helpful. Blue Guides authors and Folégandros 244 The Sporades editorial and production team work hard to bring you what we hope are the best-researched Síkinos 247 Introduction 573 and best-presented cultural, historical and academic guide books in the English language. Please write to us by email ([email protected]), via the comments page on our website Skiáthos 575 (www.blueguides.com) or at the address given above. We will be happy to acknowledge The Dodecanese Skópelos 579 useful contributions in the next edition, and to offer a free copy of one of our titles. Introduction 251 Alónnisos 585 Rhodes 257 Skyros 590 8 CONTENTS CONTENTS 9 Euboea 597 Chronology 636 Euboea: Eretria 613 Samos: Heraion 490 Glossary 647 Euboea: Lefkandí 610 Samothrace: Sanctuary of Practical Information 631 Index 660 Kos: Asclepeion 385 the Great Gods 545 Lemnos: Polióchni 535 Santorini: Akrotiri 178 MAPS & PLANS Mytilene: Castle 507 Santorini: Ancient Thera 172 Paros: Ekatontapylianí 112 Siphnos: Ághios Andréas 225 Island groups Patmos 416 Patmos: Monastery of St John 420 Thasos: Agorá 556 Aegean overview 4 Polýaigos 240 Rhodes: Kameiros 291 Thasos: ancient Liménas 560 Argo-Saronic overview 11 Poros 33 Rhodes: Lindos 301 Cyclades overview 49 Rhodes 258 Dodecanese overview 252 Salamis 38 Eastern Aegean overview 430 Samos 474 About the author and editors Northern Aegean overview 499 Samothrace 540 Nigel McGilchrist has lived in the Mediterranean region for over 30 years, working for the Sporades overview 573 Santorini 161 Italian Ministry of Arts and then as Director of the Anglo-Italian Institute in Rome. He has Sériphos 214 taught at the University of Rome, for the University of Massachusetts, and was for seven Individual islands Síkinos 247 years Dean of European Studies for a consortium of American universities. He lectures Aegina 13 Siphnos 220 widely in art and archaeology at museums and institutions in Europe and the United States. Amorgós 185 Skiáthos 575 Andros 101 Skópelos 580 Heinrich Hall is an Athens-based archaeologist specialised in the Neolithic. He has been Antíparos 110 Skyros 591 involved in archaeological excavations and surveys in several countries, with a special focus on Crete. He is also the archaeological correspondent for the English-language Athens Astypálaia 312 Symi 347 News. He organises and leads archaeological and cultural tours in Turkey and Greece for Chálki 319 Syros 56 Peter Sommer Travels. Chios 433 Thasos 551 Tilos 357 Euboea 598–99 Dr Michael Metcalfe also organises and leads cultural and archaeological tours for Hydra 27 Tinos 92 Peter Sommer Travels. He lives in Sicily and is a specialist in Ancient History and Greek Ikaría 460 Epigraphy. He has taken part in several archaeological projects in Greece and Turkey, and is Ios 155 Town plans currently preparing the early 19th-century notebooks of a British archaeological mission to Kálymnos 395 Aegina Town 15 the Eastern Aegean for publication. Kárpathos 325 Chios Town 435 Kasos 336 Ermoúpolis (Syros) 58 Kastellórizo 341 Kos Town 374 A note on transliteration Kea 201 Mykonos Town 85 The editors’ aim has been to find transcriptions that help with pronunciation without Kímolos 240 Mytilene (Lesbos) 504 stripping words of their character or creating semantic confusion. The resulting system Kos 372 Naxos Town 131 is personal rather than ruthlessly consistent. Names familiar from the Classical world are Kythnos 211 Rhodes Old Town 262 spelled in the way most familiar from literature (Daedalus, not Dhaidhalos). The same is Leros 410 Rhodes outside the walls 280 true of well-known names from art and history (Lysippus; Michael Palaeologus). Accents Lesbos 502 on place names indicate the stressed syllable in modern Greek. On ancient place names, Lemnos 526 Site plans and in cases where the pronunciation is either obvious or very familiar (e.g. Mykonos), the Milos 230 Aegina: Palaiochóra 19 accents are omitted. Mykonos 83 Aegina: Temple of Aphaia 22 G or Gh (used as the transliteration for C) should be pronounced soft, almost like the ‘y’ Naxos 128 Amorgós: Minoa 187 in ‘young’. D (for D) sounds like the ‘th’ in ‘then’; Ch (for V) is pronounced like the Scottish Nísyros 364 Chios: Néa Moní 442–43 ‘loch’. The diphthong ai is like the ‘ai’ in ‘paid’; ei is pronounced ‘ee’, as is ‘oi’. Paros 110 Delos 68.