ICOM Costume News 2017 September 2017 INTERNATIONAL COSTUME COMMITTEE COMITÉ INTERNATIONAL DU COSTUME Letter from the Chair Dear Colleagues, I am pleased to report on a successful meeting in London. We enjoyed stimulating papers and, of course, the renewal of collegial friendships. I must first thank our British colleagues who stepped in to as- sist with planning this meeting. I do not advise trying to plan a meeting in a short time, at a great distance and without a local committee. However, members of the Board of Officers and members of the Com- mittee made essential contacts which allowed this 2017 meeting to proceed after the unfortunate cancella- tion of the Bangkok meeting due to the death of the king. First, I must thank Matteo Augello who sug- gested the London College of Fashion and made the first contact; Johannes Pietsch who made the contact with the School of Historical Dress; and Alexandra Kim who had contacts at the Fan Museum, the Victo- ria and Albert Museum, Kensington Palace, and contacted Chatsworth and the transportation companies necessary for the post-conference day trip. Through it all Paola Di Trocchio kept sending the e-mails and Meike Koenigstein kept the ICOM Costume Web site up to date. As a result of all of these efforts and more, we had a meeting with 81 attendees, 5 accompanying persons and a program of 46 presentations with 27 countries represented. The committee was able to provide full or partial subventions to nine members. We were very pleased to welcome Lotte van Schellen and Catherine Regout representing the com- mittee organizing our 2018 meeting in Utrecht, The Netherlands. The theme of the 2018 meeting will be innovation and fashion and coordinate with Ninke Bloemberg’s costume and innovation exhibition, “Out of Fashion.” Watch for the call for papers. We also welcomed Yayoi Motohashi who is our liaison with the Japanese organizing committee for the 2019 Triennial in Kyoto. During the Kyoto Triennial, we are organizing a joint afternoon meeting with the International Committee for Museums of Arms and Military History. The Board of Officers is pleased with this prospect as fashion and military dress share many influences. If you are interested in the relationship between fashion and military dress, please watch for a special call for papers for the Kyoto meeting. Alexandra Palmer has graciously agreed to Chair the Nominating Committee and appoint those who will serve with her. This is a critical role as there will be at least three openings on the Board of Offic- ers (Chair, Vice-chair and Secretary). Other current Board members are up for re-election. According to the ICOM Statutes, no one can serve on the Board of an International Committee for more than twelve years, and no one person can hold the same position for more than six years. The Nominating Committee must be approved at the meeting in Utrecht. Members of the Board are nominated and elected via e-mail prior to the Kyoto meeting. Please consider joining the Board as it is a rewarding experience to work with others committed to the future of the Costume Committee. As you think of members who might serve as officers and Board Members-at-Large, please talk to them and to current members of the Board so that 1 names can be forwarded to Alexandra. Members of the Board of Officers must be ordinary ICOM mem- bers. The nominations can be forwarded to Alexandra via e-mail at [email protected]. The Board of Officers is considering what kinds of projects the Costume Committee might pur- sue in keeping with the strategic objectives of ICOM. It was suggested that the two areas that could be emphasized are the Student Day and Clothes Tell Stories. We now have several years of experience with both of these initiatives so developing them further is appropriate. Another area that could be emphasized is that of clothes and sustainability. Over the next months we will solicit your opinions and suggestions about these initiatives so that we can make concrete proposals at the Utrecht meeting. Just to refresh our memories, the 2016 strategic objectives of ICOM are: 1. Enhancing membership value through improved participation, communications, and capacity building. 2. Enhancing ICOM’s international profile 3. Raising the visibility of ICOM 4. Enhancing ICOM’s international role 5. Auditing ICOM’s needs in terms of staff and resources A more comprehensive explanation of these objectives is available on the ICOM Website. We welcome your suggestions for programming that the Costume Committee can undertake to meet these goals. look forward to the 2018 meeting in Utrecht and to hearing from you concerning nominations as well as strategic objectives. With all good wishes, Elisabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch’s Fotoimpressions from the Annual Meeting June 26-29, 2017 in London At the School of Historical Dress At Kensington Pallace Queen Victoria's dress, Kensington In the lecture Hall at LCF At the V&A lecture on Balenciaga 2 Annual Meeting June 26-29, 2017 In London Annual General Meeting International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume 27 June, 2017, 11:15AM, London College of Fashion Minutes by Alexandra Kim I. Call to order (JLD) II. Introduction of new members and first time attendees; apologies from those absent New Attendees Absences Rebecca Devaney June Swann Lotte van Schellen Maria Friend Catherine Regout Eva Ucholova Louise Coffey Webb Gundula Wolter Daniel Drexel Paola di Trocchio Mary-Anne Gooden Sofia Pantouvaki Angelika Riley Jean Loverin Patricia Way Dorothea Nikolai Dennita Sewell Elia Petridou Anne-Mari Lehto Perilla Rasmussen Annelena De Groot Dale Gluckman Draginja Maskareli Ninke Bloomberg Louisa Onuoha Mary Onuoha Tony Njoku Inez Brooks-Myers Kelechi Iroegbu Jasna Gaburova Eva Hasalova from Slovakia Marketa Vinglerova III. Approval of the minutes of the meeting in Milan as published in the Newsletter (JLD) Approval for minutes approved by Vicki Berger and Naomi Tarrant IV. Chair's report (Jean Druesedow) Dear Colleagues, I am delighted to welcome you to London, and I must first thank our British colleagues who have stepped in to assist with planning this meeting. I do not advise trying to plan a meeting in a short time, at a great distance and without a local committee. However, members of the Board of Officers and members of the Committee made essential contacts which allowed this 2017 meeting to proceed after the unfortunate can- cellation of the Bangkok meeting due to the death of the king. First, I must thank Matteo Augello who suggested the London College of Fashion and made the first contact; Johannes Pietsch who made the contact with the School of Historical Dress; and Alexandra Kim who had contacts at the Fan Museum, and the Victoria and Albert Museum, and who contacted Chatsworth and the transportation companies necessary for the post-conference day trip. Through it all Paola Di Trocchio kept sending the e-mails and Meike Koenigstein kept the ICOM Costume Web site up to date. As a result of all of these efforts and more, we have a meeting with 86 attendees and a program of 46 presentations. We have been able to pro- vide full or partial subventions to nine members. We have just introduced our first-time attendees. It seems that the primary activity of the Costume Committee from year to year revolves around planning the next meeting. It is very important to plan at least two years ahead. We will hear plans for the 2018 meeting in Amsterdam and the 2019 Triennial in Kyoto later in this meeting. It is now time to entertain 3 suggestions for the 2020 and 2021 meetings. The additional activities we have undertaken have to do with publishing the meeting proceedings, and soliciting new articles for “Clothes Tell Stories,” as well as en- couraging additional translations of the Vocabulary of Basic Terms. The websites need continuous servicing, and we thank Meike Koenigstein and Lucia Savi for attending to them. Dorothea Nicolai has continued and enhanced our Social Media presence. Lucia will have new re- sponsibilities in the coming year and has asked to be relieved of her work on “Clothes Tell Stories.” Thus, we need a volunteer to replace her in that role. Of increasing importance is the appointment of a Nomina- tions Chair, and we must accomplish this here at the London meeting. If you are interested in volunteer- ing, please talk with me or another member of the Board. There are three current members who must be replaced in 2019: the chair, vice-chair and secretary have served in Board positions for the maximum num- ber of years allowed by ICOM’s internal rules. Professional associations and friendships grow with each exchange of knowledge made possible through our Costume Committee activities. I encourage you to participate in the governance of the Committee, to use our social media, and whenever possible, to attend the meetings to reap the rewards of membership. V. Vice Chair’s report (Bernard Berthod) Mon intervention va rendre compte des travaux de la Réunion du Conseil consultatif à Paris les 7 et 8 juin 2017 SEPARATE MEETING IC Wednesday 7 june (présidence Kristiane STRAETKVERN et Peter KELER) Plusieurs thèmes ont été abordés 1. Problème de la délégation de pouvoir ou d’autorité Demande : La délégation de pouvoir devrait intervenir lors de recrutement de personnel hors de France, lors de réception d’argent donné par un sponsor ; les IC n’ayant pas de personnalité juridique, une déléga- tion de pouvoir sera donnée pas d’une manière générale mais pour une activité bien déterminée ; toute de- mande doit être soumise au Comité central Ce problème se rencontre aussi lors des meeting annuels, lorsque le IC doit avancer de l’argent 2.