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| FRIDAY, AUGUST 10, 2018 | THE STRAITS TIMES | happenings life D5 Tan Hsueh Yun Food Editor recommends DELICIOUS AND VEGETARIAN Picks Have you got friends who go meatless on Mondays? I do and, for many years, I would wonder – why? Now I kind of, sort of, get it. As I get Food older and want to be kinder to my body, it makes sense to, as American author Michael Pollan writes in his 2008 book, In Defence Of Food: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” I’m not ready to give up meat, but a vegetarian meal once a week is not difficult, especially when I can go to La Bussola in Portsdown Road for vegetarian and vegan Italian food. The restaurant opened about three months ago and the people behind it are the owners of Pietrasanta, just across the courtyard. Chef Loris Massimini, 45, of FLAVOURFUL SOYA SAUCE As with all things delicious, fat is the Pietrasanta, was inspired to open CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS key. There is enough of it in the filling La Bussola because he saw the good The good thing about hawker centre to make every bite swoonworthy. healthy eating can do. dining is that if the dish you set out to Better yet is the Soya Sauce Chicken La Bussola’s chef, Carlo Alberto eat is disappointing, there are plenty Noodle (from $4, above right). A sign on Castellini, 36, went vegan six months of other choices. the stall suggests you order mee pok, ago and his blood pressure went And that is how I discover Xiang but I prefer mee kia, and pay an extra $1 down. Massimini’s brother, Giuseppe, Jiang Soya Sauce Chicken at for a chicken drumstick. The flavourful 51, cut out red meat, started eating Alexandra Village Food Centre. braising sauce and meat that is just a more vegetables and seafood, and The noodle dish I’d gone there to little blush pink near the bone make saw his blood pressure levels eat was unimpressive. I join the queue this one of the best versions of soya improve too. in front of Xiang Jiang because I walk sauce chicken I have tasted. A meal at the restaurant does not past a couple, see giant shrimp My mother and I tuck in. Silky have to be austere. dumplings winking at me from their chicken flavoured with cinnamon and Ravioli di Burrata ($22, right above) bowl and ask where they are from. star anise. Noodles with bounce. comes with six plump pasta “There,” she says, pointing at the Our heads bob up in happy surprise. dumplings filled with creamy buffalo stall. “Wow,” we say in unison. milk cheese and a fresh-tasting and herb, but it works very well here. made with butter and the rice ST PHOTOS: The wait is interminable, even on a Why didn’t I order half a chicken? light tomato sauce. The pasta is a For dessert, Pistocchi Classica ($15) pudding needs a bit more sugar TAN HSUEH YUN quiet Sunday, but the big, beautiful Or a whole one? little too thick, but I love the contrast is rich enough to be sinful. But the so that it is identifiable as a dessert. dumplings (80 cents each, above left) WHERE: Xiang Jiang Soya Sauce between rich filling and zesty sauce. dark chocolate cake, really more of Perhaps next time, I’ll opt for the are worth queuing for. I love that the Chicken, 01-77 Alexandra Village Food Even better is Funghi Alla a ganache, comes in a small enough cheese platter ($24), panna cotta filling is not too tightly packed, Centre, 120 Bukit Timah Lane 1 Cacciatora ($23), a crock of fresh serving that I don’t feel guilty ($14) or chestnut cake ($17). despite the fact that there is a lot in MRT: Queenstown OPEN: 7.30am to monkey head mushrooms stewed polishing off the whole thing. I share it WHERE: La Bussola – by Pietrasanta, there – minced pork, prawns and 2.30pm (Wednesdays to Mondays), with tomatoes, celery, carrot, olives with a friend, but really want to have it 01-04, 5B Portsdown Road strips of black fungus. closed on Tuesdays and perfumed with rosemary. The all. MRT: one-north TEL: 9114-5087 mushrooms are thick and have Budino di Riso ($14), a rice pudding, OPEN: 11.45am to 2.30pm, 5.45 to a meaty texture and the dish is comes in a crisp tart shell. And here is 10.30pm (Wednesdays to Mondays), so hearty, I do not miss the meat. the only time I miss richness in the closed on Tuesdays INFO: www. Rosemary is far from my favourite meal. The pastry should really be ristorante-pietrasanta.com DEEP-FRIED TREATS PRESSURE-PERFECT Ngoh hiang guan chiang, that hawker dish of deep-fried There are many places to go for a good meal in Little India, meat rolls, fish cake, sliced pork sausage and prawn but I’ll bet not many are as quiet, cool and serene as Urban crackers, is never on my food radar. But a friend tells me Roti in Syed Alwi Road on a weekday afternoon. about her favourite stall in Sembawang Hills Food Centre Its owners must love hexagons – the shape pops up in with such a gleam in her eye that I have to check it out. the floor tiles and wall hangings. Sin Sin Ngor Hiang Prawn Cracker has been in business But I am there for one dish, Cooker Me Kukkad ($16, right). for over 40 years and a line quickly forms once the It is such a good idea, I wonder why all the main dishes on the signboard lights up – even though the 1.30pm opening menu are not cooked this way. time is usually past the lunch-time peak. Chicken with an aromatic but not too hot gravy is cooked But, oh, the offerings are terrific and miraculously in a mini pressure cooker, and the server appears at the table grease-free despite the double deep-frying. with the pot, releases the steam with a bit of dramatic flair, Zoom in first on the prawn cracker ($1.20), palm-sized, and then diners tuck in. with a tiny prawn embedded in the middle. The filigree Pressure and multi-cookers are all the rage among batter is phenomenally crisp. Another must-have is the home cooks these days and I wish I could get the mini one guan chiang or pork sausage ($3), which comes in shades the restaurant uses. I dream of whipping up stews and of pink not normally found in nature. Sin Sin’s is lean, but flavourful soups in no time at all. manages to be soft and pliant.The classic meat roll ($1.20) They might taste half as good as Cooker Me Kukkad. or ngoh hiang has a decent amount of meat and good Pressure allows the spices to permeate the meat and, spicing, but I’ll save my calories for the prawn cracker. at the same time, makes the chicken tender. As dipping sauces go, this one is good but not Not that chicken needs that much help. I’d like to put mind-blowing. It has the requisite tartness, but needs that cooker to work on mutton. a little sweetness and heat for balance. You can order naan, of course, to mop up the gravy, My friend lets slip that the stall’s fried beehoon ($1) is but I decide to try something different. Appetisingly brown also good. I get it to go and it is; simple and unadorned. Taftaan ($6) and slightly puffy, mint-studded Laccha WHERE: Sin Sin Ngor Hiang Prawn Cracker, 01-21 Paratha ($5) are flatbreads that do the job superbly. Sembawang Hills Food Centre, 590 Upper Thomson Road WHERE: Urban Roti Indian Grill And Bar, 101 Syed Alwi Road MRT: Yio Chu Kang OPEN: 1.30 to 9.30pm (Fridays to MRT: Farrer Park TEL: 6209-5545 OPEN: 11.30am to Tuesdays), closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays 11.30pm daily INFO: urbanroti.com.sg FOOD Morton’s 40th-Anniversary Mini snowskin a green apple filling and a white orders by Aug 31, extra 5 per cent off Menu mooncakes from chocolate core infused with Hua online TEL: 6825-1131/1132 For its 40th birthday, Morton’s of Ting’s premium tea; and the Mini INFO: E-mail [email protected] PROMOTIONS Hua Ting. PHOTO: Chicago is offering a three-course ORCHARD HOTEL Salted Egg Custard, which has a promotion this month at $88++. velvety custard paste and a salted Pasta Frenzy At Blue Potato Diners can choose a starter, a main egg. The traditional baked WINE EVENTS This month, pasta lovers can enjoy course and a side, and dessert. mooncakes include low-sugar the Italian staple prepared in various Starters include Caesar salad and classics such as white lotus paste Acqua E Farina Signatures And styles at Blue Potato. Start your meal prosciutto-wrapped mozzarella. ($69+, box of four pieces), white lotus The Wines Of Frescobaldi with the Artichoke Shell Pasta Salad For mains, choose the 170g filet paste with single/double yolks and Taste the distinctive culinary styles ($24++), which comprises artichoke, mignon or non-steak options such as macadamia nuts ($73+/$75+, box of from various regions of Italy with a shell pasta, red onion, capsicum, honey-balsamic glazed Ora King four pieces), as well as the signature four-course menu featuring the cherry tomatoes and goma dressing. salmon, chicken bianco or shrimp Seeds of Harmony ($73+, box of four signatures of Acqua E Farina, such as Other choices include Spicy Penne scampi capellini.

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