JOURNEYS Oslo Norway Global City to reach the north pole (1893–96). OSLO IN NINE SITES Bygdøy is also the site of the Viking The Fram Museum is 1 Petroglyphs at Ekeberg 7 Ship Museum , home to one of the literally built around Neolithic rock carvings depicting finest Viking Age discoveries yet made. animals and hunters The Oseberg ship was the centrepiece the ship that Fridtjof 2 of a lavish burial of AD 834, in which National Museum City of Nansen used to Norway’s finest collection of art, two high-status women and a wealth including many works by Edvard Munch of exotic grave goods were interred. reach the north pole Flowing through Oslo is Akerselva, 3 St Hallvard’s Cathedral explorers, the river traditionally viewed as the Ruins of Oslo’s original cathedral alongside medieval St Olav’s Monastery dividing line between the city’s posh western and working-class eastern thousands of young people who moved 4 Akershus Fortress art and districts. It’s not quite that cut and dried, from the country to the city to work Often-besieged medieval castle turned of course, but certainly the capital’s two long hours in often dangerous condi- Renaissance palace and 19th-century jail sides have very different vibes. This is tions. Right by the statue, stop for coffee 5 Resistance Museum industry due partly to the growth of industry and cake in Hønse-Lovisas Hus, a little Reminders of fight against Nazi occupiers during the 19th century, when the river red house built as a sawmiller’s cottage 6 Fram Museum became a major power source for new by the waterfall that powered the mill. Celebrating the achievements of polar mills and factories. Workers lived in Complete your tour in the western explorer and scientist Fridtjof Nansen The medieval Akershus Fortress, later cramped conditions on its east bank, hills with a particularly Norwegian type renovated to become a Renaissance 7 Viking Ship Museum palace, guards Oslo’s fjord while their wealthy employers occupied of history. The Holmenkollen ski jump Exhibits centred on the magnificent houses on the west side. You can follow 9 is an iconic feature of Oslo’s skyline, Oseberg ship buried in AD 834 the river all the way from its source in the and particularly beautiful when lit up at 8 ‘Factory Girls’ statue slo was settled in the Akershus Fortress 4 . Perched above the hills down to the city centre, a remarka- night. Inside is the Ski Museum, which From Neolithic hunters Memorial to Oslo’s industrial heritage 11th century, in the late fjord, it’s one of the most pleasant spots ble walk through Oslo’s industrial explores more than 4,000 years of skiing and Viking sailors to O Viking Age, but evidence in the city. The fortress, built from the history. Look out for the ‘Factory Girls’ history. From the observation deck, look 9 Holmenkollen ski jump & museum of far older human presence 1290s, was often besieged by Norway’s statue 8 by Ellen Jacobsen, installed on out across Oslo to the hills, forests and Iconic landmark and museum exploring Arctic explorers and can be seen dotted around the city: enemies – mostly Sweden. It was also the Beyer Bridge to commemorate the islands beyond. 4,000 years of skiing history pioneering painters, prehistoric rock carvings. Look out for used as a prison, notoriously for rebel a cluster of petroglyphs 1 , dating from Sami leaders from northern Norway Oslo’s inhabitants have around 4,500 BC, by the Ekebergpark- who led the 1852 Kautokeino rebellion. 9 en tram stop at the foot of the Ekeberg This was one of the few violent uprisings left a diverse legacy. hills: deer and elk run across the rock, by the Sami, Norway’s indigenous dwarfing a tiny human figure that inhabitants, against the state, and it Eleanor Barraclough appears to be hunting them. The city ended badly: most of the rebels were explores the sights of has inspired more modern art, too: the killed or imprisoned for many years. view over the fjord on the road leading During the Second World War, 8 the Norwegian capital to Ekeberg Park is immortalised in Akershus was taken over by occupying the background of The Scream. In the Nazi forces, and several members of centre of Oslo, the National Museum 2 the resistance were executed here. The holds two versions of this most famous Resistance Museum 5 in the fortress work by Edvard Munch (1863 – 1944), grounds is well worth a visit, exhibiting while the nearby Munch Museum artefacts including a pair of false teeth 2 owns a third. Not far from Ekeberg is converted into a radio transmitter by Gamlebyen (Old Town), where you can Norwegian prisoners of war. explore the ruins of medieval St Hall- No historical tour of Oslo (as the 3 vard’s Cathedral , built around 1070, city’s name reverted in 1925) would be 7 4 3 Eleanor Barraclough and St Olav’s Monastery, dating from complete without a visit to Bygdøy, the 5 6 is associate professor of the 13th century. If it’s sunny, take city’s museum hub. Highlights include medieval history and a picnic to relax in the nearby park. the Fram Museum 6 , literally built literature at Durham In 1624 the medieval city was around the ship that polar explorer, 1 University, and author of ravaged by fire, and King Christian IV scientist, champion of refugees, Nobel Beyond the Northlands ordered the new city, renamed Chris- peace prize winner and all-round badass (OUP, 2016) tiania, to be built to the west beneath Fridtjof Nansen used for his attempt ALAMY 108 ILLUSTRATION BY TONWEN JONES 109.