CENTENNIAL SUMMER COSTUME GUIDE: some tips on pulling off WWI in 2018 WOMEN’S DRESS Partly because of wartime austerity and partly through longer trends of change in fashion, women’s clothing during World War I was noticeably simpler and less restrictive than the ornate fashions of the turn of the century. Skirts tended to fall around the ankle or a bit above, and while women still wore corsets, silhouettes tended to be a bit more relaxed than before the war— meaning that we, in costume, don’t necessarily have to! While dressing for “war work” or as a nurse meant more tailored, masculine styles, everyday clothing was often enriched by low-key decoration—embroidery or other detailing around cuffs, necklines, pockets and hems, for one thing. GET THE LOOK Even without precisely imitating one of the period dresses shown in the images above, there are ways to get the period look. Using clothing that may not scream “WWI” on its own, a pretty convincing period silhouette can be achieved. Luckily for us as costume wearers, one of the commonest silhouettes in the late ‘teens is still very familiar today: a collared blouse and skirt. Somewhat full sleeves (but not extremely poofy; there’s still a war on, after all!) and details or interest near the collar or along the front placket of a blouse can make it look especially right. Pair with a relatively slim skirt around ankle length. If you have a dress or tunic with shoulder, collar and sleeve details that look “right,” but it’s too short, try pairing it with a sash or belt at the waist and a long skirt worn underneath: tunic-y peplums or layers over an underskirt was also a recurring theme in women’s dress during the period. A third approach is to pair the blouse from our suggestion above with a sleeveless dress as an underlayer—the dress in this image by Heinrich Kuhn looks exactly like a long jumper- style dress from the 1990s to me. WHAT ABOUT MILITARY OR SERVICE DRESS? Another popular option for 1918 were the myriad types of uniform and work clothes associated with nursing, work on the land and other types of wartime service. Three of the four outfits pictured above could easily be accomplished with the jumper or skirt and blouse strategies above—and that charming bloomer suit perhaps with a blouse and pants in similar colors. Why not give it a try? ACCESSORIES: THE REAL KEY TO “PERIOD” As we’ve seen above, the basic shapes and clothing pieces involved in this period’s clothing aren’t particularly inaccessible to us a hundred years later, or even that unusual. So what’s going to really make the difference in terms of a convincing costume? Accessories! Some key items include: SHOES. If you’ve got a pair of lace-up boots with a heel, you’re golden. Shoes with narrow rather than round toes are better, and details like laces or cross straps (like these) are great. HATS. A hat can add plenty to your outfit in terms of both fashion and function—you’ll keep your hair back (if it needs the help) and the sun off your face, while providing one more period detail. Round brimmed hats, whether large and floppy or more modest, are great; try adding a scarf or some fake flowers or fruit for embellishment. Military influence meant that plainer, squarer, more masculine hats were also worn, though! SASHES. Many of the plates above have featured some form of waist sash or fabric belt, and covering up your waist can obscure any period-inappropriate elastic or zip closures. Try a long rectangular scarf or any piece of complementary flowing fabric. PARASOLS. Parasols are heavily featured on the front page of this guide, and there’s a wild variety of ways to decorate one to match (and enhance) your outfit. A paper parasol is cheap and customizable. Try fringe, flowers, stenciled or appliqued images, rosettes or other small detail designs, or lace. The parasol once completed will be your friend in the hot July sun, too, especially if you’ve opted to pass on the hat. MEN’S DRESS The suits worn by civilian men during World War I weren’t wildly different from suits worn today. Something lightweight and probably two-piece would be best for summer, paired with a collared shirt (extra credit for a “club” collar, with rounded edges instead of sharp collar points!) and leather shoes or boots. Even more so than with women’s dress, details and accessories are vital for men’s costumes. A hat is a must— and for summer, what could be better than a straw boater with ribbon trim? Look for the widest tie you can find (see the kite-shaped ones in the image below). Don’t forget, either, your final finishing touch: suspenders to keep your trousers up where they belong! MILITARY DRESS Even though we in Chazy are very much on the home front, it might seem appealing to try a doughboy costume. Historical photographs of soldiers abound, so the best place to start is by looking at a number of different photos to get a sense of things. While some aspects of this costume might be harder to put together out of everyday clothing than a civilian suit, certain pieces may be relatively easy to make or find—basic military colors and some types of gear are similar today to how they were 100 years ago. The centerpiece of this costume, and possibly one of the bigger challenges, will be the helmet! CHILDREN’S DRESS Some elements of children’s clothing mimicked that of adults: girls wore dresses with blousy fronts and details around the neck and sleeves, and little boys wore collars. Military details— and particularly sailor collars—were popular for all children. The biggest difference between children’s and adults’ clothes was bare legs: girls’ dresses came to knee instead of ankle length, and small boys wore short pants. A little more summer-friendly than their parents’ options! OPTIONS FOR EVERYONE: BATHING COSTUMES In reality, wearing your bathing suit to a summer fair far away from the beach wouldn’t be the most appropriate choice—but if it’s feeling so hot out there that you don’t think you can stand a suit or an ankle- length skirt, it’s certainly an easier—and less full- coverage—option, and it works for any age or gender. Swimsuits in the teens were made of wool or jersey, and came in a variety of styles, but the most basic—and long- lived, continuing to be popular well into the twenties—is pretty easy to recreate. A pair of jersey shorts and a tank top or tee shirt, both black, are the key pieces; any white stripes or edging, or a belt, are great additions. And for women, don’t forget your bathing cap and knee socks or stockings! .