YOUR ANNUAL TRAIL-RIDING GUIDE THE TRAIL RIDER SPECIAL ISSUE! APRIL 2014 P Camp Canada! Essential P Blue Ridge Getaway 29 Trailer Tips SP P Northwest Guest Ranches E C ial Cross-Country I SS P New Mexico Gem ue P Hauling Guide 2014 2014 P Civil War Battlefield Rides trail - riding Top Travel guide Gear Trail-Riding Resources SPONSORED BY STRAIGHT ARROW P Handy Checklists P On-Trail First-Aid Kit P Riding-Helmet Tips A P ril P More! 2014 Plus: Our Exclusive Where-to-Ride Guide! Land of Enchantment BY CYNTHIA MCFARLAND I grew up in Tucson, Arizona. But, “world’s first designated wilderness” at the these areas comprise more than three mil- I’m sorry to say, I’ve never spent time in urging of conservationist Aldo Leopold, the lion acres. neighboring New Mexico. Gila National Forest contains more federal There are no roads and motorized ve- So, when my good friend and riding land than any other national forest outside hicles aren’t permitted. The only way to buddy, Mary McDuffie, and I started plan- Alaska. It includes the aptly named Aldo explore these areas is by horse or by foot. ning a riding vacation last year, I began It’s remarkable to ride for an entire day and Leopold Wilderness, Blue Range Wilder- looking at ranches in that beautiful state. encounter only wildlife and scattered small I ness, and the Gila Wilderness. Together, While online, I came upon groups of cattle — the land is Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch in open range for grazing. Winston, in the southwest por- “We feel like there’s no bet- tion of the state. ter way to show people the The Esterly family — Harry, beauty of this Earth than by Diana, and Meris — bought I horseback,” notes Meris, who the ranch in 2007, but it’s been has been riding since age 8. in operation since the 1980s, Riding the well-trained As we chose our ranch va- DESTINATIONS when it originally started as a mounts of Geronimo cation, my friend and I had hunting lodge. several prerequisites. We were The Esterly family took Trail Guest Ranch looking for a ranch that of- regular ranch vacations to- is the perfect way fered: (1) a limited number of gether when daughter Meris to experience New guests, (preferably adults only); was a teenager. They were so (2) indoor accommodations; (3) enamored of the whole idea, Mexico’s endless trails beautiful scenery; and (4) lots they eventually decided to buy and rich history. of saddle time. a ranch of their own. They first Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch traveled to ranches for sale met every one of those require- throughout the West, often ments — and then some! staying as guests to get the full I experience. Inspiring Landscape When they discovered Whoever coined the state’s Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch, slogan, “Land of Enchantment,” they were awed by its incredible must’ve been inspired by the location and small size. The fact landscape around the ranch. that it’s a private ranch located The terrain varies from gen- in the middle of millions of tle, grassy foothills to towering acres of protected national for- mountain ranges. Around the est land was a huge plus. ranch are woodlands studded Set aside in 1924 as the with juniper and pines. Higher up, there are moun- “The only way to explore the tain meadows and spruce for- areas around Geronimo Trail ests. Many of these border steep, Guest Ranch, is by horse or rock-walled canyons, some more by foot,” notes Cynthia Mc- than 1,000 feet deep. Farland, shown here aboard This is the country where her first mount, Casper. Geronimo roamed, the trails MARY MCDUFFIE PHOTO where the likes of Billy the Kid 60 THE TRAIL RIDER • APRIL 2014 The entrance to Geron- imo Trail Guest Ranch. The ranch is surrounded by towering pines in three million acres of wilderness areas and national forest land. CYNTHIA McfaRLAND PHOTO and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid terstate 25 south to the ranch. Some guests sign that says, “Travel Not Recommended once rode to stay ahead of the law. It was a opt to fly into El Paso, Texas. Either city is a Beyond This Point.” Just drive carefully!) thrill to ride here. four-hour drive from the ranch. Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by “It’s an honor and a privilege to share We rented a vehicle in Albuquerque and Meris Esterly and Seth Stout, who showed this land with our guests,” says ranch set off in (we thought) plenty of time to us to our cabin and then to the cantina, DESTINATIONS worker Seth Stout. “This is one of the last reach the ranch for dinner and before dark, where dinner was waiting. remote, untouched, yet protected, places in something the Esterly family strongly rec- Nestled under the towering pines, there the country. It’s so rare to have private prop- ommends. are four separate units in two roomy cabins erty in the middle of national forest land.” Be sure to fill your gas tank in Truth or at the ranch. Each has a covered porch, an The area is rich in history. The Mimbres, Consequences (the station in Winston isn’t indoor sitting area, bedroom (or bedrooms), a prehistoric North American people, were open late). And keep in mind that cellphone a private bath, and propane fireplace heat- residents of the Gila Mountains centuries coverage is spotty in the area. Your phone ers for cold nights. ago; the height of their culture was some- will quit working, likely just west of I-25, We found freshly baked cookies in a jar where between 1000 and 1150 AD. about two hours from the ranch. in our cozy cabin, along with water bottles Alas, we took our time along the way, and a coffee maker. Getting There thinking we’d cover the final 50 miles in an Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch is off the About six months ahead of our trip, we hour at most. grid. That’s right. No electric wires. But not made reservations and placed our deposit. Wrong! Those last miles are on narrow, to worry! A diesel generator, solar panels, Before we knew it, it was time to pack and two-lane, winding roads in open range, and battery system provide power. catch our flight. hence, the handsome Hereford bull we en- (Tip: You won’t find a hairdryer in your It’s not hard to get to Geronimo Trail countered coming around one turn. We also cabin; their use is discouraged because they Guest Ranch, but it does take some time, saw a mule deer and a large elk. pull so much current.) due to its remote location. But that’s one of The last 10 miles or so, the pavement Exhausted, we didn’t last long after the things that makes it special. ends and the road turns to a well-main- dinner. The beds are comfy, and there are We flew into Albuquerque and took In- tained gravel surface. (You can ignore the CONTINUED ➜ CYNTHIA McfaRLAND PHOTO Geronimo Ranch guests get ready for the morning ride. “Several of us were experienced riders with our own horses,” notes McFarland. “We were delighted to be matched with mounts that met our expectations.” TRAILRIdeRmaG.com 61 Land of Enchantment Ranch owner Meris CONTINUED Esterly (in front of the group) stops to give plenty of blankets and extra pil- guests a brief history lows. With no glaring outdoor lesson on the trail. lights, it was easy to fall asleep “Meris is a fountain quickly. of information and Trusty Trail Mounts intriguing facts about the area’s history,” The next morning, eager says McFarland. to meet our horses and get in the saddle, we all met at the barn after enjoying a hearty breakfast. The ranch has a maximum of 16 guests at a time, so you’ll never feel “lost in the shuffle.” There were only eight guests the week we came, which we platform to make felt was perfect. it easier on the Children and families enjoy horses’ backs. I ap- the ranch during spring break preciated this at- and summer; the ranch has ex- tention to detail. I cellent horses for novice riders. noticed that Meris When we visited in late Septem- and Seth’s goal CYNTHIA McfaRLAND PHOTO ber, all guests were adults. was always to keep Several of us were experienced riders and were eager for a ranch trip after having horses and riders as safe and comfortable with our own horses and ride regularly at enjoyed one in Texas. Neither Gary nor San- as possible. home. We were delighted to be matched dra has had much riding experience, so they For example, when the footing was suit- DESTINATIONS with mounts that met our expectations. relied on Meris and Seth to match them able, Meris asked if we wanted to trot and “You come here to ride, and that’s what with suitable horses. They also loved the fact lope. The less experienced riders opted out, we do; the focus is riding,” says Seth, who that they were allowed to help groom their so Seth rode with them at a walk, while the has been with the ranch since June 2008, horses after riding. more experienced riders joined up with and works alongside Meris as wrangler and “We wanted something small with them again a short time later. co-host. hands-on experience with the horses,” ex- “I was really impressed with how well- plains Sandra. “This ranch more than ex- Ancient Lands trained and responsive the horses were,” ceeded our expectations; it’s everything we On our first morning, we took an easy says my traveling companion, Mary, who wished for, and we loved our horses!” 1½ hour orientation ride to get to know owns two trail-savvy mares, a Paint and an “We felt safe with our horses from the our horses.