Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics Hiroshi Iwata Kunio Shimada Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care Products in Japan Hiroshi Iwata Kunio Shimada ERICA Co., Ltd. NOF Corporation Saitama, Japan Tokyo, Japan Technical translator Yuko Makuuchi ISBN 978-4-431-54060-1 ISBN 978-4-431-54061-8 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-4-431-54061-8 Springer Tokyo Heidelberg New York Dordrecht London Library of Congress Control Number: 2012947809 © Springer Japan 2013 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, speci fi cally the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on micro fi lms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. Exempted from this legal reservation are brief excerpts in connection with reviews or scholarly analysis or material supplied speci fi cally for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser of the work. Duplication of this publication or parts thereof is permitted only under the provisions of the Copyright Law of the Publisher’s location, in its current version, and permission for use must always be obtained from Springer. Permissions for use may be obtained through RightsLink at the Copyright Clearance Center. Violations are liable to prosecution under the respective Copyright Law. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a speci fi c statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. While the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication, neither the authors nor the editors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may be made. The publisher makes no warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein. Printed on acid-free paper Springer is part of Springer Science+Business Media (www.springer.com) Preface I have long wished to publish not an ordinary book but a really useful one for cosmetics researchers in the world, believing it is my mission as I have long worked in this fi eld. Today, many books are available from which readers can learn the basics of designing cosmetics formulations. However, most of the authors work or have worked for private companies, and thus the books do not contain the knowl- edge that constitutes companies’ secret know-how but only the contents for which the companies or organizations approved disclosure. I doubt whether the informa- tion is suf fi cient for readers to actually design cosmetics. The coauthor of this book, Mr. Hiroshi Iwata, is an old friend of mine. He is an independent consultant and learned about cosmetics by studying them himself over many years. He has given guidance to major cosmetics companies not only in Japan but also overseas. He can impart knowledge freely without being restricted by any organization. He is highly capable and has abundant knowledge about cosmetic formu- lation, and there are not many people like him even among highly experienced research- ers. I believe Mr. Iwata is the most suitable person for writing this book, and I sincerely thank him for spending much time and effort in spite of his busy schedule. The translator, Yuko Makuuchi, is an experienced expert in Japanese–English translation of scienti fi c and technical writing. Dr. Daisaku Ikeda (President of Soka Gakkai International), who is my lifelong teacher and has received more than 300 academic awards from all parts of the world, said during an interview with Dr. Vincent Harding, “What is the real purpose of sci- ence? It is the happiness of the human being.” I believe that development of superior new cosmetics products as a result of hard, accumulated research work has led and will lead to the happiness of people. If this book helps people engaged in research and development of cosmetics formulations, those who work for cosmetics compa- nies, and students studying cosmetics, it will be a great joy for me as an editor. Finally, I thank Dr. Shinichi Koizumi of Springer Japan KK for giving us an opportunity to publish this book. Tokyo, Japan Kunio Shimada v Preface Japan is one of the three largest cosmetics markets in the world. It holds a unique place in the global industry as it has its own set of regulations and technological strengths. Higher safety standards, among other factors, have had the positive impact of forcing more research and thus pushing the science of cosmetics to a very high level. Japan’s cosmetics industry continues to focus on fundamental research, rely- ing on cosmetics companies themselves to utilize their superior know-how to bring innovation and re fi nement to cosmetics and cosmetics-related technologies. Today, young cosmetics researchers who have completed their graduate studies and have entered a cosmetics company are put through several years of training before they become quali fi ed to design cosmetics formulations themselves. They are trained so that they can design formulas not by a process of logic but by heart, like craftsmen, chefs, or carpenters. To the authors of this book, this kind of training seems a terrible waste of labor and time. To address this issue and allow young cosmetics scientists to design novel formulations and effectively bring greater diver- sity of innovation to the industry, this book provides a key set of skills and the knowledge necessary for those so inspired. The book will help readers prepare formulas at the ordinary commercial product level and then eventually design their own original, and possibly high-level, formula- tions. This volume is designed to provide the comprehensive knowledge and instruc- tion to researchers, that is, the know-how necessary for designing cosmetic products. The book’s chapters cover a comprehensive list of topics and are divided as fol- lows: Chap. 1 is on the basics of cosmetics, including ingredients and dosage. Chapter 2 describes the raw materials of cosmetics and their application, that is, how ingredients like oils, fatty acids, macromolecules, and glycols, among others, are used (there has been no book to-date describing actual applications). Practical techniques and technologies for designing and manufacturing cosmetics are given, as well as theoretical knowledge, in each of Chaps. 3–5. Chapter 3 describes emulsi fi cation, which is particularly dif fi cult. Chapter 4 is on sensory evaluations of cosmetic ingredients that determine consumer preference. Chapter 5 describes how to mix and compose formulas for each kind of commercial cosmetic product, among vii viii Preface which are featured soap-based cleansers, shampoos, conditioners, creams, hair-care products, hair dyes, agents for permanent waves, and curling lotions. In summary, our work endeavors to instruct and inspire all enterprising cosmet- ics technicians to pursue further their passion for the industry and apply themselves in the following three areas: (1) the development and manufacture of hair-care and skin-care cosmetics, (2) the evaluation of raw materials, and (3) the design of cos- metics and consulting. The potential for innovation is great in Japan’s cosmetics industry. It is our hope that the high level of dedicated research continues and proliferates, especially in the fi elds of evaluation and development of high-grade, premium cosmetics products. Tokyo, Japan Kunio Shimada Contents Part I Ingredients and Productions of Cosmetics 1 Developing the Formulations of Cosmetics............................................ 3 1.1 Classification and Categories of Cosmetics ...................................... 3 1.1.1 Parts of the Body ................................................................... 4 1.1.2 Efficacies and Effects ............................................................ 4 1.1.3 Purpose of Use ...................................................................... 4 1.1.4 Method of Use ....................................................................... 6 1.1.5 Properties and Product Forms ............................................... 6 1.2 Constituents of Cosmetics ................................................................. 6 1.2.1 Ingredients for Giving the Product Form .............................. 6 1.2.2 Ingredients for Stabilizing the Products ................................ 7 1.2.3 Ingredients for Giving Efficacies, Effects, and Concepts ............................................................ 7 1.2.4 Ingredients Acting on the Senses of Users ........................... 7 1.3 Categories of Cosmetics and Product Forms .................................... 8 1.3.1 Toilet Soaps and Cleansers ................................................... 8 1.3.2 Shampoos .............................................................................. 8 1.3.3 Conditioners .......................................................................... 8 1.3.4 Creams .................................................................................. 10 1.3.5 Leave-on Hair Care Products ................................................ 10 1.3.6 Cosmetics Mainly Consisting of Oil ....................................