56 COWBOY WAY Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, Canada’s Calgary Stampede offers more than a glimpse into the Heart of the New West — past and present. BY ETHAN ROUEN the last decade, and with the people have come some delicious contemporary addi- tions, like Jelly Modern Doughnuts. A short walk from the Stampede grounds, this sugar shack offers an array of gourmet treats in- cluding the very Canadian Maple Bacon donut. Fully fueled, it’s time to put on those walking shoes (or walking cowboy boots) for a full day of amusement. It pays to be there for opening day, when the entire city shuts down for the morning kickoff parade. A HUNDRED YEARS AGO, Calgary, Alberta, was a rough Western Last year, the Duke and Duchess of Cam- town — a place that had not yet seen its first oil explosion and where home- bridge joined the procession of 750 horses steaders flocked to claim a piece of land to ranch and farm. Through energy and 3,000 people, and imaginations are run- booms and busts, the Heart of the New West has preserved this culture, ning wild about how this year will top that. serving as a home and a gathering place for cow folk and those who continue “The parade completely takes over down- town,” says Cowley, who rode in last year’s to romanticize the Western life. ¶ At the heart of that preservation has been parade. “Everyone should see it.” the Calgary Stampede, a combination rodeo, agricultural show and amuse- Even after the roads reopen to traffic, ment park that is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. Billed as “The the day-to-day life of Calgary fades away Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth,” the Stampede dominates the city for 10 while Stampede is happening. Before step- days, with Calgary’s population doubling as more than a million people from ping foot on the event grounds, it’s a good idea to pick up a traditional white Calgary Smithbilt cowboy hat. The gentle ribbing around the world travel to the city for a Broadway, Cirque du Soleil and a fireworks that city slickers get from authentic ranchers chance to share a beer with a real cowboy spectacular. And don’t forget the partying. is worth the price. and immerse themselves in the Western life- Lots of partying. Those looking to cut loose In order to beat the crowds, get to the style, from learning animal care to eating can find a drinking buddy and a live band at massive Stampede grounds early and head prairie oysters. almost any hour of the day. to the agricultural center for a chance to “It’s the biggest time of the year for Cal- To do the Stampede right, though, interact with cows and horses before later gary and for ranchers,” says David Cowley, takes a little effort. With so much going witnessing their relatives trying to buck off who has participated in 31 Stampedes in his on, even 10 days isn’t enough time to catch rodeo stars. Farmers from all over Canada 31 years and works as vice president of Raf- everything, but with some careful plan- come out to showcase revolutions in growing ter Six, a dude ranch outside Calgary. “The ning, everyone, from families looking to as well as some of their cutest critters. Visi- city becomes Stampede.” out-Disney Disney World to college kids tors can learn about properly draining their Started by an American trick roper in need of a summer spring break, can find lawns and environmentally friendly ways to and four businessmen, the Stampede was ceaseless entertainment. handle trash while also petting baby goats, created to offer a more authentic Wild West baby chickens and miniature donkeys. And experience than many traveling shows pro- A DAY AND A NIGHT for anyone who has ever wondered what it’s vided at the time. While some aspects of the Everyone can find a reason to attend the like to be a draft horse, you can don a yoke to event have evolved (think extreme carni- Stampede, but the one reason that all can see how much weight you can pull. val food like macaroni-and-cheese pizza), agree on is the free pancakes. Start the Nearby is the indoor Stampede Cor- the heart of the celebration remains little morning with a trip to Rope Square in down- ral, where last year’s shows included an changed in a century. town, where breakfast starts ice- skating musical featur- The main draws are still the rodeo and at 9 a.m. with flapjacks, bacon, THIS PAGE: the 1912 ing Olympic gold medalists, chuck-wagon horse races, which offer some live music and entertaining Calgary Stampede acrobats and a live band. Af- of the largest cash prizes in the world for impromptu shows by people OPPOSITE PAGE: ter sitting in the dark for an a bird’s-eye view competitors, but there are also tributes to who either started partying of the grandstand; hour, though, it’s time to get the First Nations people who still have a too early or never went to bed a rodeo rider; the adrenaline flowing with large presence in the province; the chance the night before. the midway the roller coasters and other to learn about farming and agriculture; and Still hungry? Calgary has amusement-park rides. It’s a an evening show that combines the best of seen a spike in population in section of the park dedicated PREVIOUS SPREAD: MIKE RIDEWOOD; THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CALGARY STAMPEDE ARCHIVES; CHRIS BOLIN; BILL MARSH (2) 58 MAY 01, 2012 AA.COM/AMERICANWAY to embodying the carnival feel of the entire While the riders are icing their bruises, to do what they do best — run their hearts out city, so make sure to stroll through it — if you walk slowly across the park to Indian Village, in teams of four while pulling a rider and his get woozy, you can calm your nerves with where the First Nations people construct wagon on a half-mile track. increasingly bizarre foods like a hamburger towering teepees. Find a cozy place on the “It’s an adrenaline rush,” says Vern No- with a donut bun. lawn overlooking the stage where aborigi- lin, who came in eighth place overall in last The afternoon is devoted to one of the two nals of all ages perform traditional dances year’s races. “We call it the half-mile of hell.” main attractions: the rodeo. This invitation- and skits about their history. The highlight Start the spectating at one of the grand- only competition pits some of the best ath- of Indian Village is the Inter-Tribal Powwow, stand’s two restaurants, one of which offers letes in the world against the Stampede’s and at the end of each day, the great views of the track. The famously rough stock in events ranging from audience is invited to join the FROM LEFT: upscale Lazy S offers fine din- bull riding to steer wrestling to barrel racing. ornately decorated dancers in Chuck-wagon races; ing with many fresh, local in- the entrance to Try to get tickets for the final day, Showdown a two-step “friendship” dance Stampede Park; gredients, and the Clubhouse Sunday, when riders compete for more than that even the most rhythmi- a performance provides a diverse buffet that of the Hoop dance; $1 million in prize money. And stay until cally challenged can enjoy. a poster advertising leaves little room for dessert. the end to catch the Wild Pony Races, where If Stampede is nothing else, the 1912 Stampede While the story of the chuck teams of up-and-coming cowboys attempt to it is the chuck-wagon races. Ev- wagon’s origins vary from mount a ferocious pony in under 20 seconds. ery evening, thoroughbreds get teller to teller, the modern-day A MAN and His HORSE It is easy to see the world, I learned that is the affection, and we eagerly each of us with a horse to neighboring land. intelligence and power of highest compliment. indulged. match our personalities. I After a full day of riding, my horses when standing close As we drove down the long After an amazing home- spent the day on Rolling legs had had enough, and as during a chuck-wagon race dirt road to the ranch, the first cooked meal served family Thunder, who happened to they do every Saturday night, or a bucking competition, thing I noticed was that there style with the other guests, have carried the Olympic the staff had a fire waiting but there’s only one way to were no stalls. The horses Kim and I returned to play Torch (with Makenny astride) for us upon our return. For truly experience the magic of roamed wild, rolling in the with the horses, but they had during the Vancouver dinner we were offered fresh these creatures: Saddle up. grass and napping in the sun. disappeared into the dense Olympics. The horse seemed Alberta beef, potatoes and After watching others take The staff invited us to drop forest to bed down for the to anticipate my every move, beans, all cooked on the open dramatic falls from broncos our bags, snack on fresh night. We decided to follow putting me at ease and flame, followed by ice cream and speed around a track chocolate chip cookies and their example. gently guiding me through and cake. pulled by thoroughbreds, my meet some of the 35 horses, We were asleep long ghostly aspen forests, Sitting at the fire pit, we wife, Kim, and I decided we who happened to be hanging before sunset — and up just flower-filled meadows and were surrounded by the had to try horseback riding out a few feet from our in time to walk the trails ridges with sweeping views ranch’s original buildings, for ourselves, and we were room.