dventure Guide Mexico’s Gulf Coast Joanie Sánchez HUNTER HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC, 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818 % 732-225-1900; 800-255-0343; fax 732-417-1744 www.hunterpublishing.com Ulysses Travel Publications 4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec Canada H2W 2M5 % 514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax 514-843-9448 Windsor Books The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England % 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-394-3 © 2004 Hunter Publishing, Inc. This and other Hunter travel guides are also available as e-books through Amazon.com, NetLibrary.com, EBSCO and other digital part- ners. For more information, e-mail us at com- [email protected]. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, elec- tronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities con- tain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liabil- ity for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading infor- mation or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause. Cover photo: Juvenile scarlet macaw (© Frans Lanting/Minden Pictures) Back cover: Pyramid at Palenque, Chiapas (Mexico Tourism Board) All other photos courtesy of Mexico Tourism Board, unless otherwise indicated. Maps by Kim André, © 2004 Hunter Publishing, Inc. 1234 Contents INTRODUCTION 1 Using This Guide 2 Geography 3 Climate 3 Ecology 4 History 7 Government 16 Economy 17 People 17 Culture & Customs 18 Travel 20 Getting Here 20 By Air 20 By Car 23 By Bus 24 Getting Around 25 By Bus 25 By Car 28 Car Rentals 31 By Taxi 31 Customs 32 Entering 32 Returning 32 Entry Requirements 33 Passports 34 To Apply 34 Lost or Stolen Passports 34 Passport Agencies 35 Practicalities 37 Time, Measurements & Electricity 37 Pack Small or Bring it All? 39 Disabled Travelers 41 Communications 41 Making Calls 42 Mail 43 Bathrooms 43 Laundry 44 Money 44 Currency 44 Taxes 44 Traveler’s Checks 45 Credit Cards 45 Health 45 Common Ailments 45 More Serious Diseases 46 iv n Contents Medical Insurance 47 Vaccinations 48 Safety & Crime 48 Checkpoints 49 Emergency Assistance 49 Breaking the Law 49 Shopping 50 Tipping 51 When to Go 52 Holidays 53 National Holidays 53 National Celebrations 54 Festivals & Events 55 Food & Drink 57 Where to Eat 57 Regional Specialties 60 Local Fruits 61 Spices 62 Drinks 62 Accommodations 63 Hotel Expectations 64 Camping 66 Adventures 66 On Foot 66 Hiking 66 Caving 67 Hunting 68 Archaeological Discoveries 68 On Water 69 Fishing 69 Boating 70 Rafting/Kayaking 70 Beaches 71 On Wheels 71 Biking 71 Entertainment 72 Information Sources 73 General Information 73 Place-Specific Websites 74 Tampaulipas 74 Veracruz 74 Tabasco 75 Chiapas 75 Oaxaca 75 Embassies & Consulates 75 TAMAULIPAS 77 The Border 77 Nuevo Laredo 78 Orientation & Practicalities 78 Contents n v Getting There & Getting Around 79 By Air 79 By Bus 79 By Car 79 On Foot 80 Sightseeing 81 Adventures 81 On Foot 81 On Water 81 Festivals & Events 82 Shopping 84 Where to Stay 84 Where to Eat 85 From Nuevo Laredo to Reynosa 85 Reynosa 87 Orientation & Practicalities 87 Getting There & Around 88 By Air 88 By Bus 88 By Car 88 Sightseeing 88 McAllen 89 San Juan 89 Mission 90 Festivals & Events 90 Where to Stay 90 Where to Eat 91 Matamoros 92 Getting There & Around 92 By Air 92 By Bus 93 By Car 93 Orientation & Practicalities 93 Sightseeing 94 Brownsville 95 Adventures 95 On Foot 95 On Wheels 97 On Water 97 Festivals & Events 97 Where to Stay 98 Where to Eat 99 The Coastline - From Matamoros to Aldama 99 Where to Stay 101 Aldama 101 Adventures 102 Cenotes 102 Fishing 103 Where to Stay 103 Ciudad Victoria 103 vi n Contents Orientation & Practicalities 104 Getting There & Around 104 By Air 104 By Bus 104 By Car 105 Sightseeing 105 Adventures 105 On Water 105 On Foot 105 Where to Stay 106 Where to Eat 106 Reserva de la Biosfera de El Cielo 107 Adventures 107 Hiking 107 How to Get There 107 Where to Stay 108 Xicoténcatl 108 Ocampo 108 Ciudad Mante 109 Where to Stay 109 Tampico 109 Orientation & Practicalities 110 Getting There 112 By Air 112 By Bus 112 By Car 113 Getting Around 114 Sightseeing 114 Museums 115 Zoo 117 Adventures 117 On Foot 117 City Walking Tour 118 The Pyramid 120 Golf 120 On Wheels 121 On Water 121 Lagoons 121 Beaches 122 Fishing 123 Festivals & Events 123 Shopping 124 Nightlife 124 Where to Stay 125 Where to Eat 127 VERACRUZ 129 Northern Veracruz 130 The Road To Tuxpan 131 Contents n vii Tuxpan (or Tuxpam) 132 Orientation & Practicalities 132 Getting There & Around 133 Sightseeing 133 Adventures 134 On Water 134 Archaeological Discoveries 134 Festivals & Events 135 Where to Stay & Eat 135 Poza Rica 136 Orientation & Practicalities 136 Getting There & Out 136 Where to Stay 137 Central Veracruz 138 Papantla 139 Orientation & Practicalities 139 Getting There 140 By Car 140 By Bus 140 Adventures 142 On Foot 142 Cultural & Eco-Travel Excursions 143 El Tajín Archaeological Site 144 Festivals & Events 149 Shopping 151 Nightlife 151 Where to Stay 151 Where to Eat 152 Costa Esmeralda 153 Getting There 153 By Car 153 By Bus 154 Adventures 154 On Water 154 Fishing 154 Boat Launches 154 Beaches 155 Archaeological Discoveries 155 Cultural & Eco-Travel Excursions 156 Festivals & Events 156 Where to Stay 156 Camping & RV Sites 157 Where to Eat 158 Tlapacoyan 158 Adventures 159 Rafting 159 Archaeological Discoveries 160 Along the Coast: Villa Rica to Cardel 161 Ruins of Quiahuiztlan 161 Spanish Settlements 161 viii n Contents Sulfur Springs of Tinajitas 162 Birding in La Mancha 162 Ruins of Zempoala (Cempoala) 163 Dunes in Chachalacas 164 Birdwatching in Cardel 164 Veracruz 165 Orientation & Practicalities 165 Getting There 166 By Air 166 By Bus 167 By Train 169 By Car 169 Getting Around 169 Car Rentals 169 Local Transit 171 To San Juan de Ulúa & Boca del Río 171 To Mandinga 171 Sightseeing 171 Adventures 174 On Foot 174 Town Walks 174 Golf 176 On Wheels 176 Bus Tour 176 Bike Rentals 176 Coastal Drive 177 On Water 177 Beaches & Lagoons 177 Boat Tours 178 Diving 179 Fishing 179 Sailing 179 Kayaking/Rafting 179 By Air 180 Archaeological Discoveries 180 El Zapotal 180 Festivals & Events 180 Carnaval 180 Festival Internacional Afrocaribeño 181 School Holidays 181 The Fiesta de Santa Ana 181 Shopping 181 Nightlife 182 Dancing 182 Nightclubs 182 Where to Stay 183 Where to Eat 185 Tlacotalpan 187 Orientation & Practicalities 188 Contents n ix Getting There & Around 188 Sightseeing 188 Shopping 189 Adventures 190 Festivals & Events 190 Where to Stay 191 Where to Eat 191 Xalapa 191 Orientation & Practicalities 192 Getting There 194 By Air 194 By Car 194 By Bus 195 Getting Around 196 To Coatepec & Xico 196 To Jalcomulco 196 To Perote 196 Sightseeing 198 Adventures 198 On Foot 198 Town Walk 198 Hikes 200 Tour the Churches 201 Wandering the Alleys 202 A Daytime Stroll 203 Sports 204 On Wheels 204 Bus Tour 205 Drives 205 On Water 205 Archaeological Discoveries 206 Cultural & Eco-Travel Excursions 207 Art Galleries 207 Visit a Hacienda 208 Learn the Lost Art of Goldsmithing 209 Theaters 209 Study Abroad 210 Festivals & Events 210 Shopping 210 Nightlife 211 Where to Stay 211 Where to Eat 213 Perote 215 Orientation & Practicalities 215 Getting There & Around 215 Adventures 216 Hiking 216 Where to Stay 217 Where to Eat 217 x n Contents Coatepec 218 Orientation & Practicalities 218 Getting There & Around 218 Sightseeing 218 Adventures 219 Eco-Travel 219 Festivals & Events 219 Where to Stay 220 Where to Eat 220 Xico 220 Orientation & Practicalities 220 Getting Around 222 To Cascada de Texolo 222 To Coatepec/Xalapa 222 Adventures 222 On Foot 222 Town Walk 222 On Wheels 224 On Water 224 Waterfalls 224 Festivals & Events 226 Shopping 226 Where to Stay 226 Where to Eat 227 Jalcomulco 227 Orientation & Practicalities 227 Getting There & Around 228 Adventures 228 Outfitters 228 On Foot 230 Hike 230 Rappeling 230 Gotcha 231 On Wheels 231 On Water 231 In the Air 231 On Horseback 232 Festivals & Events 232 Where to Stay 232 Where to Eat 232 Orizaba 233 Getting There & Around 233 By Bus 233 By Car 234 Orientation & Practicalities 235 Sightseeing 237 Adventures 238 On Foot 238 Hikes 238 Contents n xi Beer Tour 239 Caving 239 Mountain Climbing 240 On Wheels 241 On Water 241 In the Air 241 Cultural & Eco-Travel Excursions 242 Nightlife 243 Where to Stay 243 Where to Eat 244 Fortín de las Flores 245 Orientation & Practicalities 245 Getting There & Around 246 Adventures 246 On Foot 247 Festivals & Events 248 Where to Stay 248 Where to Eat 248 Córdoba 249 Orientation & Practicalities 249 Getting There & Around 250 By Car 250 By Bus 250 Sightseeing 250 Where to Stay 251 Where to Eat 251 Southern Veracruz 251 San Andrés Tuxtla 252 Orientation & Practicalities 252 Getting There & Around 254 Sightseeing 254 Adventures 256 On Water 256 Beaches 256 Waterfalls 257 Lagoons 258 Archaeological Discoveries 258 The Olmecs 258 Where to Stay 259 Where to Eat 260 Catemaco 260 Orientation & Practicalities 260 Getting Around 261 Adventures 261 On Wheels 261 On Water