STANDARDS OF QUALITY Copyright © 2008 by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted in any form without permission in writing from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, Inc. Table of Contents TABLE OF CONTENTS............................................................................................................................ II ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .........................................................................................................................V THE STANDARDS AND PRACTICES COMMITTEE ........................................................................ VI INTRODUCTION........................................................................................................................................ 1 SECTION I: .................................................................................................................................................. 3 QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION................................................................ 3 SEAMS...................................................................................................................................................... 3 SEAM FINISHES...................................................................................................................................... 3 DARTS...................................................................................................................................................... 4 DART EQUIVALENTS............................................................................................................................ 4 UNDERLININGS...................................................................................................................................... 5 INTERFACINGS ...................................................................................................................................... 5 INTERLININGS ....................................................................................................................................... 6 LININGS ................................................................................................................................................... 6 POCKETS ................................................................................................................................................. 7 Inseam Pockets ..................................................................................................................................... 7 Applied Pockets..................................................................................................................................... 7 Slashed Pockets..................................................................................................................................... 8 EDGE TREATMENTS ............................................................................................................................. 9 Bindings ................................................................................................................................................ 9 Facings ............................................................................................................................................... 10 Inset Bands.......................................................................................................................................... 10 Rib-stretch Bands................................................................................................................................11 Collars ................................................................................................................................................ 11 UNDERSTITCHING .............................................................................................................................. 12 SLEEVE TREATMENTS ....................................................................................................................... 12 Set-in Sleeves ...................................................................................................................................... 12 SLEEVE/BODICE COMBINATIONS ................................................................................................... 13 Kimono/Dolman Sleeve....................................................................................................................... 13 Raglan Sleeves .................................................................................................................................... 13 Drop Shoulder..................................................................................................................................... 13 Deep-cut Arm hole Design.................................................................................................................. 13 SLEEVE FINISHES................................................................................................................................14 Sleeve Plackets.................................................................................................................................... 14 Cuffs.................................................................................................................................................... 14 WAISTLINE EDGE TREATMENTS..................................................................................................... 15 Waistbands.......................................................................................................................................... 15 Waistline Facings ............................................................................................................................... 15 Edge Casings ...................................................................................................................................... 16 Applied Elastic Waist.......................................................................................................................... 16 INTERNAL WAISTLINE TREATMENTS............................................................................................ 16 Elasticized Waistlines ......................................................................................................................... 16 Internal Casings.................................................................................................................................. 17 Waistline Seams .................................................................................................................................. 17 CLOSURES............................................................................................................................................. 17 Button and Decorative Snap Closures ................................................................................................ 17 Buttons (including decorative snaps).................................................................................................. 18 Buttonholes ......................................................................................................................................... 18 Snapped and Hooked Closures ........................................................................................................... 19 Zippered Closures............................................................................................................................... 19 HEMS AND HEM TREATMENTS........................................................................................................ 20 ii DECORATIVE DETAIL......................................................................................................................... 20 Soft Trims............................................................................................................................................ 20 Hard Trims.......................................................................................................................................... 21 Fabric and Stitchery Trims ................................................................................................................. 21 PRESSING .............................................................................................................................................. 22 SECTION II:............................................................................................................................................... 22 QUALITY STANDARDS FOR FIT ......................................................................................................... 22 UPPER BODY AND ARMS ................................................................................................................... 23 Center Back and Center Front Seam or Fitting Lines ........................................................................ 23 Side Seam lines ................................................................................................................................... 23 Darts ................................................................................................................................................... 23 Neckline .............................................................................................................................................. 24 Shoulder Seam line ............................................................................................................................