Investigation into the Application of Polymer Finishes on Textiles by Inkjet Printing A dissertation submitted to the University of Manchester for the degree of Master of Science by Research in the Faculty of Engineering and Physical Sciences 2011 Md. Nazmul Karim School of Materials TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS ............................................................................................................... 2 LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................................ 5 LIST OF FIGURES ...................................................................................................................... 6 ABSTRACT……………. ................................................................................................................. 8 DECLARATION AND COPYRIGHT .............................................................................................. 9 THE AUTHOR…………… .............................................................................................................10 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ...........................................................................................................11 ABBREVIATIONS .....................................................................................................................12 THESIS OVERVIEW ..................................................................................................................14 CHAPTER 1 LITERATURE REVIEW........................................................................................15 1.1 Textile Printing .........................................................................................................16 1.1.1 Historical Background ......................................................................................16 1.1.2 Definition of Textile Printing .............................................................................17 1.1.3 Classification of Textile Printing ........................................................................17 1.1.4 Textile Industry and Printing Methods ..............................................................19 1.1.5 Global Textile Printing Market Trends ..............................................................22 1.1.5.1 Geographical Relocation ...............................................................................22 1.1.5.2 Fibre Usage Trends .......................................................................................22 1.1.5.3 Colourant Usage Trends ...............................................................................23 1.1.5.4 Reduction in Run Sizes ..................................................................................24 1.1.5.5 Changes in Business Model...........................................................................24 1.1.5.6 Ecological Considerations .............................................................................24 1.1.6 Digital Printing .................................................................................................25 1.1.6.1 Advantages of Digital Printing.......................................................................25 1.1.6.2 Limitations of Digital Printing .......................................................................27 1.1.6.3 Classification of Inkjet Technologies .............................................................29 1.1.6.4 Physical Consideration of Drop-on-Demand Droplet Formation ....................32 1.1.6.5 Inkjet Technologies for Textile Application ...................................................35 1.1.6.6 Inkjet Inks .....................................................................................................36 1.2 Textile Finishing .......................................................................................................41 1.2.1 Types of Textile Finishing .................................................................................41 1.2.2 Significance of Chemical Finishing ....................................................................42 1.2.3 Application of Chemical Finishes ......................................................................43 2 1.2.3.1 Application Methods ....................................................................................44 1.2.3.2 Drying of Wet Textiles ..................................................................................45 1.2.3.3 Curing of Chemical Finishes ..........................................................................46 1.3 Shrink Resist Finishes ...............................................................................................46 1.3.1 Wool Felting Shrinkage.....................................................................................46 1.3.1.1 Causes of Wool Shrinkage ............................................................................47 1.3.1.2 Wool Shrinkage Control Options...................................................................48 1.3.1.3 Commercial Process Routes for Shrinkage Control of Wool Fabric ................49 1.3.2 Cotton Shrinkage..............................................................................................50 1.4 Digital Finishing of Textiles .......................................................................................52 1.4.1 Scopes of Digital Finishing ................................................................................52 1.4.2 Benefits of Digital Finishing of Textiles .............................................................53 1.4.3 Current Research and Future of Digital Finishing ..............................................53 1.5 References ...............................................................................................................55 CHAPTER 2 MATERIALS AND METHODS .............................................................................59 2.1 Materials ................................................................................................................60 2.1.1 Textile Fabrics ..................................................................................................60 2.1.2 Textile Finishing Chemicals ...............................................................................60 2.1.3 Chemicals for Ink Formulation ..........................................................................60 2.1.3.1 Viscosity Modifiers .......................................................................................60 2.1.3.2 Surfactants ...................................................................................................62 2.1.3.3 Humectants ..................................................................................................62 2.2 Experimental Approach............................................................................................62 2.2.1 Characterisation of Synthappret BAP ................................................................62 2.2.1.1 Solid Content (%) of Synthappret BAP ..........................................................62 2.2.1.2 Surface Tension ............................................................................................62 2.2.1.3 Viscosity .......................................................................................................63 2.2.1.4 Measurement of pH .....................................................................................63 2.2.1.5 Particle Size Measurement ...........................................................................63 2.2.2 Shrink Proof Finishing of Wool and Cotton .......................................................63 2.2.3 Performance Evaluation of Finished Fabric .......................................................64 2.2.3.1 Wash Stability Test .......................................................................................64 2.2.3.2 Crease Recovery Angle Measurement ..........................................................64 2.2.3.3 Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) ...............................................................65 2.2.3.4 Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) ............................................................65 3 2.2.4 Ink Design Approach ........................................................................................65 2.2.4.1 Surface Tension Optimisation .......................................................................65 2.2.4.2 Control of Viscosity ......................................................................................66 2.2.5 Inkjet Printing ..................................................................................................66 2.2.5.1 Inkjet Printer ................................................................................................66 2.2.5.2 Piezoelectric Jetting Cycle.............................................................................67 2.2.5.3 Control of Jetting Performance .....................................................................68 2.2.5.4 Formulations for Printing..............................................................................69 2.2.5.5 Jettability Test ..............................................................................................70 2.3 References ...............................................................................................................70 CHAPTER 3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION ..............................................................................71 3.1 Objectives ................................................................................................................72