Extract from: Scottish Natural Heritage (2010). The special qualities of the National Scenic Areas . SNH Commissioned Report No.374. The Special Qualities of the Trotternish National Scenic Area • The unique Trotternish landslip topography • Contrast between the platform of moorland and the ridge above • The human dimension of crofting settlement • Variations from dark to light across the landscape • Dramatic sea-cliffs of basaltic columns • Distant views over the sea • Mysterious presence of the Quiraing Special Quality Further information • The unique Trotternish landslip topography The Trotternish ridge forms the western Tertiary lavas and igneous intrusions have been deposited boundary to the NSA. The whole eastern on older Jurassic sedimentary rocks, creating enormous pressure and instability, leading to massive landslips, which slope of these hills has, over the are still active. The landslip topography is particularly millennia, slipped downwards, creating a complex in the area around Digg. strange and unusual landscape in which the spectacular Quiraing provides the The landslips have also created steep, fissured cliffs of focus. It is the largest landslip of its kind basalt at the higher levels. in Europe, containing small hills broken Much of inland, northern Skye consists of undulating away from the fissured cliffs above, small moorland, with little topographic drama to excite the eye. lochs in the hollows below, black Hence, when approaching the NSA from the south, west or pinnacles, and slopes both smooth and north, excitement is provided as bleak moorland gives way disordered. to views of the Trotternish Ridge. The effect is particularly dramatic when approaching along the narrow road from Uig. • Contrast between the platform of moorland and the ridge above The mountain ridge, with its undulating The long ridge runs north from Pein a’ Chleibh/ A’Chorra horizon and its landslip below, provides Bheinn, just north of Portree (outside the NSA) to Sgurr Mor (the northern boundary of the NSA). Its constantly changing an ever-present backdrop, hanging over profile dominates the western side of the NSA, with its the moorland and crofts beneath. It variety of slopes, shapes and edges (both curvilinear and provides the whole landscape with a rectilinear) complimented by lochans on the lower slopes. feeling of security and enclosure. The moorland separates the sea from the ridge, and the Extending from the base of these hills to eastern half is the location for much of the crofting settlement. the top of the sea cliffs is a platform of dark and undulating moorland. It In the middle ground of rounded and stepped moorland, provides a foil to the ridge and a setting human activity becomes limited to peat extraction and for croft and settlement. sheep grazing. The lower slopes of the ridge, with their relative rich swards on the fertile volcanic soils, step up again to the uninhabited, and wilder upland areas of unstable landslip topography, steep cliffs and a summit of rounded ridge. • The human dimension of crofting settlement The well-maintained crofts, with their Crofts occupy the land between the moor and the sea. white-washed cottages and actively- Generally the pattern is linear, the crofts following the mainly straight roads. Below the landscape of the Quiraing itself, managed inbye land, provide contrast the houses fit snugly into the broken hill-slope. and human scale to the wilder backdrop of landslip and moorland. Human settlement feels long established with remains of brochs and duns to be found around Loch Mealt. These, together with the extensive remains of pre-crofting settlements and field systems, create a sense of long occupation of the landscape. • Variations from dark to light across the landscape The dark, distinctive rock formations of The dark, basalt rocks gives rise to large areas of bare rock, the cliffs of the Trotternish ridge contrast but in contrast the eroded rock provides a rich soil, with green swathes of vegetation. The acid and peaty soils of the with the green flushes of rich vegetation smooth moorland, results in a darker vegetation pattern of on the slopes below. These contrast heather and other plants. again with the darker browns of the sweeping expanse of moorland, which in On a smaller scale, white lichens growing on the basaltic turn contrast with the greens of the cliffs can add contrast to the generally dark cliffs. crofting pastures. • Dramatic sea-cliffs of basaltic columns The interplay of igneous and The Jurassic sedimentary rocks have bedding planes sedimentary rock has created an overlain by Tertiary igneous basaltic rock with distinctive hexagonal columnar jointing. Coastal erosion has resulted unusual, interesting coastline with sheer in sheer formations along much of the coast of the NSA, cliffs and fascinating columns of basalt. although these are often invisible from the land. Kilt Rock is one location where the sea cliffs can be appreciated. The coast is particular spectacular at Kilt Rock, where the vertical cliffs are The columns appear crafted by humans, giving rise to folk enlivened by a waterfall tumbling straight tales about their legendary origin into the sea. • Distant views over the sea The Trotternish ridge tends to draw the Most of the coast of the NSA consists of sheer cliffs with the eye to the west, whereas to the east the crofts and moorland on a platform above. Hence there is little direct link between the settlements and the sea. Only in vistas are wider, across the Minch with the rocky, crescent bay of Staffin does the sea directly link its shifting patterns of waves, sky and with the wider landscape, but even here the houses are set cloud. The distant mountains of Wester well back from the sea, as if distancing themselves. Ross can be spectacular on a clear day, above islands which appear to be Views to the mainland, weather permitting, provide a stunning panorama, including the nearby islands of Staffin floating in the sea. and Flodigarry, and the more distant islands of Rona and Raasay. However, from much of the platform of 2 moorland, croftland and settlement the sea itself is invisible, but always there as presence below and beyond. Location-specific quality • Mysterious presence of the Quiraing The distinctive shapes of the Prison, The The possible translation of Quiraing from the Gaelic is Table, The Needle and the surrounding ‘crooked enclosure’ or ‘pillared stronghold.’ slopes that comprise the Quiraing have Low pressure systems constantly come in off the Atlantic, fascinated visitors to Skye since bringing low cloud and sea mist to the cliffs and landslips. Victorian times, if not beyond. This adds to the sense of drama (and justifies the Norse naming Skye ‘The Misty Isle’). It presents a feeling of mystery, and when amongst the pinnacles there is a The scene can feel almost other worldly, further enhanced by ravens flying and croaking around the rocks and cliffs. It spiritual, cathedral-like feeling – soaring is best seen on a misty day, with dramatic blacks suddenly cliffs, narrow pillars, and the crofts far looming out of the mist: below visible through narrow frames of rock. In the heart of this amphitheatre of ‘The Quirang is a nightmare of nature… is frozen terror and sloping and vertical ground, the smooth, superstition. This is a huge spire or cathedral of rock some thousand feet in height, with rocky spires or needles sticking level, green table comes as a complete out of it. Macbeth’s weird sisters stand on the blasted heath, surprise. and Quirang stands in a region as wild as itself. The country around is strange and abnormal, rising into rocky ridges On misty days, with ravens croaking here, like the spine of some huge animal, sinking into unseen in the air above, it takes on a hollows there, with pools in the hollows—glimmering almost always through drifts of misty rain. mysterious, other-worldly presence. ‘The ascent of Quirang may be pleasant enough; but a clear The winding, single track road from day you seldom find, for on spectral precipices and sharp- Brogbaig, with its hairpin bends, adds to pointed rocky needles, the weeping clouds of the Atlantic the drama, giving one of the finest views have made their chosen home. When you ascend, with of the Quiraing. every ledge and block slippery, every runnel a torrent, the wind taking liberties.’ Alexander Smith (1865). The Quiraing has attracted film-makers and been in films as diverse as the Land that Time Forgot, Breaking the Waves , and The Wicker Man . Selected Bibliography Campbell, A. P. 2000. Trotternish (leaflet), Travellers Companion, McDermott Marketing. Robertson, G. 1993. Isle of Skye Data Atlas . Portree: Skye Forum. Simpson, D. 1967. Portrait of Skye & Outer Hebrides . London: Robert Hale. Slesser, M. 1970. Island of Skye , Scottish Mountaineering Trust, Edinburgh. Stanton, C. 1996. Skye and Lochalsh Landscape Assessment. Scottish Natural Heritage Review, No. 71 . Sillar, F.C. & Meyler, R.M.1973. Skye. Newton Abbot: David & Charles. 3 Smith, A. 1865. A Summer in Skye . Reprinted in 2004, Edinburgh: Birlinn. www.ambaile.org.uk Highland History and Culture. (accessed February 2008) 4 .