Resurgent Downtown Napa City in California’s Napa Valley By Lee Foster A subtle change, positive for the traveler, now pervades one of the great travel experiences in California, the wine-centric Napa Valley. The change is the re- emergence of downtown Napa City as a satisfying destination in itself. Napa City was the 19th and early 20th century focus of the Napa Valley. Then, in the second half of the 20th century, the travel action shifted to up-valley. Visitors drove past Napa City and toured the vineyards and wineries north on Highway 29, from Yountville through St. Helena to Calistoga. However, now a traveler can enjoy a complete experience at the south end of the valley, in Napa City. This trend emerged around 2010 and becomes more complete every year. Napa City is also the only urban entity that bears the famous name of the noted wine valley. Why Go Farther than Napa City? There will always be multiple reasons for exploring the entire valley, probably in several trips over a lifetime. But on an initial immersion, the question for many visitors now is: Why go farther than Napa City? What does a typical visitor want? Tasting local wine, of course. Driving around the valley in your car can present some drinking/driving and congestion challenges. Napa City itself now has about 35 wine tasting venues, all within walking distance or a five-minute drive in your own car or Uber. Many wineries now locate either an adjunct tasting room or their only tasting room in Napa City. Lodgings. Napa City has a cluster of new hotels along the river, which started with Avia, now renamed Andaz. There are also upscale branded lodgings, such as Embassy Suites. About 15 legacy Victorians now function as cozy B&Bs, with Beasley House a typical choice. Restaurants. The food scene booms, with inventive, new restaurants added every year. The art/entertainment vitality, historic architecture, and Wine Train complete the possible menu for a satisfying visit to Napa City, a compact urban area with about 82,000 residents. Flood Control Inaugurated the New Era in Napa City Seawall protecting Napa City in the Napa Valley of California The transformation of Napa City began when the locals finally decided to resolve the perennial flooding threat from the Napa River. City leaders took an innovative approach. They built a strong and aesthetically-pleasing sea wall at the “oxbow” twisted juncture where the river bunched up to flood in high-water times. The sea wall top is now a pleasant promenade along the downtown. To complement this barrier, the city also built a direct overland bypass that allows the river, when in flood stage, to move the bulk of the water due south rather than in the meandering oxbow that nature decreed. This overland bypass area is now a lovely public park to be used for summer outdoor celebrations. Napa City decided to maintain its “living river” rather than channel all the water into cement ditches, as happened, for example, with Army Corp of Engineers direction in Los Angeles. Subsequently, the Napa City example has become a national model for cities facing similar flood issues, but hoping to resolve them in an environmentally sensitive manner. Once the city was secure against flooding, investors and entrepreneurs emerged who wanted to build hotels and start restaurants. The cultural scene flourished with new annual events and art installations. A patron restored the classic Uptown Theatre as a performance venue. Napa City assessed its heritage and concluded that it had a lot to offer the modern traveler. Tasting Wine (And Beer) On a Day or Overnight Trip to Napa City John Anthony Vineyards, 1440 1st St, is an example of the modern tasting room with an informative sit-down tasting and explanation program. A flight of wines from their nine properties can occur for a $35/person charge. This is the upscale world of elite wine making and tasting. More casual wines-by-the glass tasting from multiple local Napa Valley providers occurs in Napa City at several locations, such as Rebel Vintners, 1201 1st St. Dining options in Napa City will allow you to buy with your meal a glass or two of the local “liquid sunshine,” as early observer of the Napa Valley, Robert Louis Stevenson, characterized the proud viticulture product. A Taste Downtown Napa Wine Tasting Card promotes half-price tasting at eight tasting rooms with hundreds of hard-to-find boutique wines. If any destination in Napa City seems too far to walk, bikes can be rented, both at the seawall promenade and across the river at the Oxbow Market. Bicycle tours can also be arranged. One provider is Justin Perkins of Enjoy Napa Valley. A five-minute drive from downtown to Vista Collina Resort, 850 Bordeaux Way, presents eight winery tasting rooms and one brewery tasting room in a resort- lodging complex, called The Village. You could start with Trinitas Cellars. Taste, buy a bottle from one of the tasting rooms for a picnic, get picnic supplies at two stores in the complex, and enjoy a sunny day under the provided awnings in a central landscaped plaza. You don’t have to be staying at the resort to use the setting. Wine is not the only festive beverage with its local artisanal craft fans in Napa City. Beer brewers also flourish here. Stone Brewing Company, 930 3rd St, offers “flights” of four-beer samples. Choose the Napa Flight, featuring on-premises creations, to emphasize hyper-local taste. Lodging Choices from Upscale Hotels to Victorian B&Bs in Napa City Booking.com Among lodging choices in Napa City, if you seek a well-known national brand, the Embassy Suites, 1075 California Blvd, near the Highway 29 turnoff, is a good option. They offer a sumptuous cooked-to-order breakfast. This local iteration of the brand has a pleasing mill-themed interior courtyard with the meditative sound of flowing water, plus swans and ducks, which adults and kids can appreciate. Several new downtown hotels, some with views of the river, welcome guests. A hotel first called Avia, and later re-named Andaz, sparked the resurgence of Napa City. Though the hotel is tall for the town, at five stories, the “articulated” exterior presents multiple eye-engagement details that diminish a potentially sterile high-rise look. Andaz is an intriguing example of evolving urban design. One good example of a Victorian B&B is the Beazley House, 1910 1st St. Though the practice is now in hiatus, the B&Bs have in some past years opened themselves up in December for a festive Christmas/Holiday walk-around. Watch the local tourism website www.donapa.com and check at the California Welcome Center, 600 Main St, for guidance on how to see Napa City’s Victorian and early 20th Century historic architecture. Inventive Dining in Napa City You could spend a week sampling some of the 30 or so fine-dining restaurants that flourish here. Wine by the glass can help you explore the many excellent Napa Valley wine options. Allegria, an Italian cuisine specialist at 1026 1st St, whose name means “happiness,” is a place to start. Try the Nappa or Napa Cabbage Salad (the name of this vegetable is coincidental, having nothing to do with Napa) and then perhaps proceed with the Penne Con Pollo, penne pasta with chicken. Another sparky dining option is Gran Electrica, 1313 Main St, an affordable Mexican eatery with unparalleled eclectic strengths. Try the Carrot Margarita, perhaps followed by the Carnitas Pork Taco. Eight Noodle Shop, 1408 Clay St, presents an array of noodle soup options, perhaps preceded by pot sticker starters. Bounty Hunter, 975 1st St, is a carnivore favorite, with taxidermy big game animal heads on the brick walls. The signature dish is Beer Can Chicken. To create this tour de force, the chicken roasts on a hydrating pedestal, an opened can of Tecate beer. The chicken appears at your table giving you an upright gustatory salute. Dining Across the Napa River A short walk across the river bridge, but still in the city, the Oxbow Public Market, 610 1st St, presents food shops and several engaging restaurants. For a hearty breakfast, try the Huevos Rancheros at C Casa. Immediately beyond the Oxbow Public Market, the Copia food-celebration center offers indoor and outdoor restaurants. In good weather, try the outdoor Grove, in a cluster of olive trees. The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) now runs Copia, 500 1st St. Copia entices visitors with its restaurants, museum to cookware, drop-in classes on food preparation in lavish display kitchens, and exhibits. One exhibit shows an endearing and nostalgic collection of 1950s photos that photographer Paul Childs completed in Paris with his wife, Julia Childs. And Chocolate Dessert Tasting As counterpoint to these lunch or dinner options, you could choose a chocolate tasting immersion at Anette’s Chocolates, 1321 1st St. Few purveyors are as informed on all matters chocolate as are proprietors Anette Madsen-Yazidi and her brother Brent. Here you can buy numerous chocolate treats. Both quick and more immersive chocolate tastings for a fee are possible. Art Walk in Napa City Every two years a fresh cluster of 10 downtown public art pieces gets installed. Procure a walking map at the helpful Napa Valley Welcome Center, 600 Main St. Then stroll around. There are also about 15 art galleries in the Napa City downtown. Among permanent public art displays is a sobering 9/11 Memorial Garden, on Main St between Pearl St and 1st St, developed by noted local artist Gordon Huether.