searching for the hopi center of creation arizonahighways.com APRIL 2003 SacredSacred Vistas Vistas Navajo ofof thethe going up Young Rock Climbers Face Their Fears Verde ValleyRiver Paradise Paradise a bounty of birds Hassayampa A Peaceful Waterfront Retreat Rattlesnake Grease and Cockroach Tea frontier medicine APRIL 2003 COVER/PORTFOLIO 20 Magnificent Navajoland page 50 The stories and glorious beauty of this vast terrain tell of a proud Indian heritage. 55 GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP Arizona’s state mammal — the ringtail, or cacomistle — was a favorite pet of lonely old miners. ADVENTURE 6 Rugged Hike to Sipapu 44 HUMOR It’s no easy trek to Blue Spring and the 2 LETTERS AND E-MAIL sacred Hopi site called Sipapu on the Little Colorado River. 46 DESTINATION Hassayampa River Preserve The beautiful variety of natural wonders might 36 HISTORY even have appealed to artist Claude Monet. Medicine on 3 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP Arizona’s Frontier Explore Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures. Territorial physicians were mostly brave U.S. 54 EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Army surgeons doubling as naturalists, A birding and nature festival flies into Yuma; the bookkeepers, weathermen and gardeners. world’s largest outdoor Easter pageant unfolds in Mesa; Miami celebrates its mining history; and Arizona 40 TRAVEL commemorates its Asian pioneers in Phoenix. Finding Courage in the Rocks 49 ALONG THE WAY Young climbers triumph over their fears as they What’s really behind a place name? It’s not always challenge the cliffs of Queen Creek Canyon. what you’d think. 50 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE BIRDS Ruby Road to Buenos Aires 14 National Wildlife Refuge Flocking to Verde Valley Woodlands, small lakes, grasslands and a chance The birds know it’s all about ideal location in to see wildlife mark this 50-mile drive. this avian paradise where so many live or visit. 56 HIKE OF THE MONTH Sixshooter Trail Hikers will find many “mountain personalities” on this 6-mile hike Grand Canyon near Globe. National Park NAVAJOLAND Blue Spring Verde [THIS PAGE] A Friends of Arizona Highways photography Valley workshop titled Portraits of the Southwest provided participant Carlas Hill with the winning subject in this year’s “Chance WICKENBURG of a Lifetime” competition. CARLAS HILL Hassayampa PHOENIX GLOBE [FRONT COVER] Navajo photographer LeRoy DeJolie captured River Preserve Queen Creek Pinal this arresting image of the swirling sandstone patterns of Mountains Waterholes Canyon near his ancestral home on the Navajo Canyon TUCSON Indian Reservation near Page. See story and portfolio, page 20. Buenos Aires National LEROY DEJOLIE POINTS OF Wildlife Refuge INTEREST [BACK COVER] The Little Colorado River Gorge slices through FEATURED IN ARIVACA the landscape of the Navajo Indian Reservation, 10 miles THIS ISSUE from its confluence with the main Colorado River. GARY LADD and e-mail takingthe APRIL 2003 VOL. 79, NO. 4 Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor ROBERT J. EARLY off-ramp Senior Editor BETH DEVENY Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Research Editor MARY PRATT Save the Cover Photos 1998 come flooding (pun intended) back. My then Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH exhibits, visitors can view the THIS MONTH IN Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL 1 I’m sure the cover on the November 2002 issue is a 2 ⁄2-year-old son Zachary and I had awakened to a center’s prints through its Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER ARIZONA very beautiful fall scene. However, I couldn’t tell. storm that chased us all the way to the Chiricahuas, Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK PrintViewing program. Simply The picture is so cluttered with the magazine title finally overtaking us in the parking lot of the call to make an appointment. Art Director MARY WINKELMAN VELGOS and seven titles of articles. monument’s visitors center. Zachary and I cuddled Deputy Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY In addition to housing Adams’ Father Marcos Why destroy such beautiful pictures — especially together on the big back seat of our Buick and Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP work, the center holds the 1539 Associate Art Director BETH ANDERSON de Niza, looking on the covers — with information that could easily waited out the deluge. Art Assistant PAULY HELLER works of other greats, for cities of be on the inside cover? The chill and the rhythm of the rain cheered me, Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY including photojournalist Lola gold, explores WHITE HOUSE RUIN, CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT, ARIZONA, 1942 ARIZONA, MONUMENT, NATIONAL DE CHELLY WHITE HOUSE RUIN, CANYON Arizona and Look at the covers of the magazine during the and I decided to drive up the mountain in search of Arizona Highways Books Alvarez Bravo and famed claims it for WitWorks® Books Spain. 1940s and 1950s. The covers were beautiful. A snow. Soon the rain turned to sleet and then snow. Editor BOB ALBANO fashion and portrait small space on the corner was used to give the I was amazed to see a prickly pear covered with Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL photographer Richard Avedon. JR. ELMS, DAVID ANSEL ADAMS, ANSEL ADAMS, magazine title, month and year of issue. The snow. Cactus and snow? I never dreamed! Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON The center’s print collection beautiful covers are what got me interested in your After about 10 minutes of frolic, I put the car in Production Director CINDY MACKEY contains a “who’s who” of 1850Yuma Indians Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER See Grand massacre a magazine. The current covers are turning me off. low gear and coasted ever so gingerly back down. Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON UA Center Houses 20th-century shutterbugs, group of ferry- Save the cover photos. I have been longing for a winter storm in the Webmaster VICKY SNOW including Diane Arbus, Canyon Caverns men at Yuma Photography’s Elite Crossing at the DON ALLEN, Sedona desert ever since. Marketing Director Eugene Atget, Henri Cartier- confluence of PATRICIA POWERS-ZERMEÑO by Flashlight Even this poor old editor has to admit times CHRIS ZERVAS, Newark, DE he most revered photographer Bresson, Imogen Cunningham, the Colorado Circulation Director LEE FRANKLIN and Gila rivers. change, like it or not. Cover lines since the early of the American landscape, Man Ray, Robert Mapplethorpe, .S. Route 66 kitsch lovers Fifteen die and 1990s have been so popular with our readers (more Wrong Flavor Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE Ansel Adams, may have nothing to fear from three escape to T coastal cities. than 9 in 10 cherish them) that we once considered It was with regret that after more than 17 years Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT have loved Yosemite Urecent upgrades at the Grand putting them on the back cover as well. I wish we as a loyal subscriber, I chose not to continue. National Park best, but Canyon Caverns, about 60 miles FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES could please all the people all the time. You have taken away the old “flavor” of favorite OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: when he chose a home for east of Kingman.The scowling A mail rider is lost gold mine stories and past gunfighter tales Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 his archive, he picked Tyrannosaurus rex and the authentic 1869 In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., attacked by Great Cover and such other past fables. Call (602) 712-2000 Tucson. In fact, Adams Indian teepee are staying put. New Indians at Apache Pass. For I absolutely LOVE the photo (fall in the Chiricahua WILLIAM LUNdbERG, Clemmons, NC Or visit us online at: cofounded the University owners John and Frank McEnulty arizonahighways.com 1964 DALLAS, the third time in Mountains) on the cover of the November 2002 of Arizona’s Center for and Mike Kadletz have preserved three months, For Corporate or Trade Sales issue. I have never been so taken by a photo. It is Young Fan Call (602) 712-2050 Creative Photography, the old-time charm of the landmark the mail is captured by absolutely breathtaking, and it captures all the I love your magazines. I’m 9 years old. Since I saw E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: which now houses Adams’ they’ve visited for 25 years, while the Indians. colors of the rainbow in what looks like “one your magazines I knew I wanted them. I find very [email protected] negatives, contact sheets renovating the caverns, the 48-room simple click of the camera.” interesting things in them. In school I’m doing a Regular Mail: and prints, including the WINOGRAND, GARRY motel and the restaurant/curio shop. Editor ERIN BURLING, Muskegon, MI report on Arizona using your magazines for 2039 W. Lewis Ave. iconic ones of Half Dome in Weegee and Garry Winogrand. The biggest change, along with 1870Separated from information. I will remain your Number 1 fan. Phoenix, AZ 85009 Yosemite and, arguably his most A small gallery on the first floor satellite TV and a modern telephone the Department of the Pacific, Travel Tips MELISSA MENARD, Whitman, MA Governor Janet Napolitano revered image, “Moonrise, holds free exhibits that range from system, are the cavern tours. Along the subdistrict Director, Department of Transportation Many ideas for my holidays in Arizona have come Hernandez, New Mexico.” retrospectives to artist-curated with the 45-minute narrated walk of Arizona Victor M. Mendez becomes its from Arizona Highways. Missing Home ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD Unlike most museums, where contemporary works. Information: through the dry limestone caverns, Chairman Katie Dusenberry, Tucson own depart- I had some special places to visit, places I I am a second lieutenant stationed at Tyndall Air Vice Chairman Ingo Radicke, Globe the public only has access to current (520) 621-7968. the new owners have added a ment, under found in Arizona Highways.