^^'1>K^-"H:'. ^tate College of Agriculture Sit Cornell tHntbersiitp 3t!)aca, B. S' Hftrar? ""'**"">' G 480 pg?""'" '"'"'V Across America and Asia.Notes ot a five 3 1924 013 977 727 „. Cornell University Library The original of tiiis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924013977727 r ACROSS AMEEICA AND ASIA NOTES OF A FIVE TEAMS' JOUBNET AROXJKD THE WORLD AND OF ESBIDSirOX IS AEIZOIsTA, JAPAl!}' SlfV 0HI1^^A BT RAPHAEL PUMPELLY Prqfenar in Haroard Ohiversityj and sometime Mining Bnffineer in the service tf the Chinese and Japanese Chvemmenlt> SECOND EDITION, REVISED. NEW YORK LETPOLDT & HOLT 1870 Entekbd according to Act of CoNaKEss in the Year 1669, by LETPOLDT & HOLT, In the Cxjibk's Orrios of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. BTEREOTTFED BT PRINTED BY DENNIS BRO'S & THORNE, THE TROW & SMITH BOOK M'F'G CO^ AUBURN, N. T. 60 & 52 GREEN STREET, N. T As so many of the following pages relate to experiences illus- trating the wisdom of that diplomatic policy which, in bringing China into the circle of interdependent nations, promises good to the whole world, I dedicate them to the chief author of that policy— ANSON BURLINGAME. PEEFAOE. Aftee preparing the volume of " Geological Researches in CMna, Mongolia, and Japan," for publication by the Smithsonian Institution, I was induced to write a simple narration of a jour- ney which encircled the earth in the Northern temperate zone, at a time of unusual interest in several of the countries visited. The social disorganization in Arizona presented a phase of bor- der life of the worst type indeed, but most valuable as showing the effect of the absence of the usual restraints upon society. Extensive travel in the interior of Japan and China under com- mission from the native governments, and the long journey from China over the table land of Central Asia, and through Siberia to Europe, brought me face to face with the inhabitants of these interesting countries, and with the. influences which Nature has used in moulding them to their present forms. I have tried to present in a continued, series of sketches these important regions, which are being brought, by the reaction of the spirit of the age upon their natural capacities, into the circle of interdependent nations. The incidents and adventures of an eventful journey are used freely, as forming some of the best illustrations of the social con- dition of the races in the midst of which they occurred. During a residence of several months at Mr. Burlingame's house in Peking, in the most interesting period of diplomacy in vi PBEFAGE. knowledge thus acquired I have sought to embody in the chap- ter on Western Policy in China. The MS. was finished early in 1868 ; the policy, therefore, which is recommended in reference to our Indian question was arrived at before the adoption of substantially the same means by the present administration. Those of my readers who are interested in Japanese Art will feel as much indebted to Mr. John La Farge as I am, for kindly writing the chapter on that subject. The cuts facing pages 175 and 180, and the maps of Tesso and of the Tang Ho district, are taken from the Geological Researches in China, Mongolia, and Japan, by permission of the Smithsonian Institution. The wood-cuts are engraved by Messrs. W.J. andH.D. Linton. The lithographic maps and illustrations were executed under the supervision of Mr. J. Bien. I would express sincere thanks to both Mr.'W. J. Linton and Mr. Bien for the especial interest they have taken in furthering the execution of the illustrations. Finally, I would acknowledge the deep obligation I am under to the many friends abroad and at home who, by hospitality and a thousand kind actions, have smoothed the route of travel and the difficulties of publication. RP. ' LIST OF ILLTJSTEATI01i[S. Thb Dajbutz or Kamakuea. (Prom a Photograph.) Fkontispieob. The Santa Eita Vallht. (From a Sketch by H. C. Grosvencr.) To face page 12 . The Saquaba. (Cereus gigantem.) " " 38 . Datbkeak on the Desekt. (View from the Tinaje Alta, from a Sketch in the Report on the United States and Mexican Boundary.) To face page 57 , Cbatek near Honolulu 69 , Ftjzitama and Inosima. (Prom a Japanese Sketch.) 129 169 , Volcano of Komangadake, erom Washinoki * . Method or Washing fob Gold To face page 175 Manner OP OcciTRRENCE of Stilphtjr* " " 180 " , Change FROM Polygonal to Spherical Form in Eock Masses*.. " 180 , Japanese Wood-Cuts AND Color Phis TING " " 198 Japanese WooD-Cir. 3 AND Color Printing " " 199 *' *' 200 , Japanese Wood-Cuts and Color Printing " ' . Japanese Wood-Cuts and Color Printing " 202 . Temple of Heaven at Peking. (From a Photograph.) 275 , EooFS OF THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN. (Prom a Photograph.) 276 Gateway before the Altar to Heaven. (Prom a Photograph.) 277 The Altar to Heaven. (Prom a Photograph.) To face page 278 C«REAN Embassadok. (From a Photograph.) 303 Attendant of the Corean Embassador. (From a Photograph.) 303 Attendant of the Coeean Embassador. (From a Photograph.) 303 . Marble Arch in the Nan-kau Pass. (From a Photograph.) 307 face 308 , The Great Wall. (From a Photograph.) To page , Mongol 386 . Mongol Peinob 386 MAPS. Preface. Meeoatoe Chaet, showing the Authoe's Eoute To face the face page . Map of Arizona To 1 * . Map of Southern Tbsso " " 143 " " . Map OF the Tang Ho District.* To accompany Chap. XXm 306 * From the author's " Gsoloqical Researcite^ in Chiha, Monoolia and Japan." (SmlthiOn. ItMt. 1868.) — — A coiJrTEisrTs. CHAPTER I. THE OVEKLAJTO COACH. JiBComfort of a crowded coach—A border family—Dipping—1. Indian Territory—Park- like scenery in Valley of the Red Eiver—Indian cultivation-Negro slaves held by Indiana —Loss of hats—Transition to the prairie lands of Northeastern Texas-2. From prairie to desert—Visit from the " Eegalators "—Prairie dogs and their neighbors—The des- ert—3. Camanche depredations—Effects of continued stage travelling—Scenery on the Pecos Eiver-Gnadalonpe Mountains—Teams of wild horaes i. Arrival at Tnc- son-Warm quarters-Dryness and clearness of the air—5. Masses of Meteoric iron— VaUey of the Santa Cruz—Surface structure of the valley—6. The Mission of SanXavier del Bac—Stock ranches—The Santa Eita Mountains-The Canoa—Tubac—Arrival at the Santa Eita mines—^7. Geography of Arizona—Granite ridges and plains—Geologi- cal remarks on Arizona—8. Scarcity of surface-water—Influence of climate on the vegetation—9. Transition from deserts of the coast to the forests of the interior moun- tains—Cereus Giganteus—Trees of the country—Arizona a good grazing country—Little agricultural land without irrigation—Eemains of ancient agricultural civUizatioa on the Gila Eiver—10. CHAPTER II. THE SANTA EITA VALLEY. Influence of climate and vegetation npon the scenery of Arizona—Journey to Fort Bu- chanan—Eemarkable escape of a woman from Indian captivity—13. Fort Buchanan —^A man killed by Apaches in sight of the Fort—Subsequent murders at the same place —Previous mining industry at the Santa Eita—^Difliculties opposed to mining—Our horses and mules stolen by Apaches—Eepeated attacks 14. Eumored withdrawal of the troopa—How Indian wars are begun—Violation of a flag of truce by XJ. S. troops— 16. General consternation among the settlers—We determine to abandon the mines- Collecting debts—Journey to the Heintzelman Mine—A load of ore sent to the Santa Eita—^Exciting journey back to the mines—17. Suspicion of treachery—Grosvenor and myself set out in pursuit of delinquents—Eetum—18. An awful night—Assassination of Grosvenor—19. Arrival of troops-Burials—Discouraging prospects-Necessity of an Increased force at the mines—22. Journey to the Fort—A self-recorded murder- scene of destmction and a race for life—24. Terrible weapons—Disappointment at the Fort—25. Eetum to the Santa Eita—Smelting and fighting—36. Abandonment of the Santa Eita—27. CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. THE FEONTIBK AND THE DESERT. Dtier morals—29. Prospects of Arizona^-Need of improTed means of transportation —30. Ferguson's route to Lobos Bay—Harbor of Libertad—Dlfllcnlties and needs of metallurgy in Arizona—Fuel—Necessity of immigration—31. Uncertainty and treach- ery of Mexican laborers—^Partido system of mining—Wages at Santa Rita—Chinese la- bor recommended—Arizona more a! grazing than an agricultural land—Necessity of change in our Indian policy—32. The cause of our Indian troubles—Needs of a roving population—33. The extermination policy—Success of the methods followed by Hud- son Bay Co. and by the Jesuits—34. Treatment of Aborigines by Eussia and China- Policy recommended in reference to the Indians—How Indian wars are begun by Indian agents—35. Excursion to the Papagoria—Scenery—36. Wild horses—Animals on the sHrt of the desert—Outpost monuments of the Apaches and Papagos—37. Mines of Cahuabi—A village which gets its water drop by drop—A touching Incident of Indian life—The giant cactus and other plants—38. Irregular mining—39. Night soeneiy on the desert—Accident to Washburn—40. Terrible heat—Narrow escape of Poston—Watch- ing and nursing on the desert—41. Arrival of a wagon—Starting for Sonora—42. Starving on the desert—Relief—43. Arrival at Saric—Kindness of the Mexican women —Retni'n to Arizona—44. CHAPTER IV. CLOSING SCENES. massacre at the Canoa—45. Remarkable escape of William Rhodes—One man against » hundred Apaches—46. The scene at the Canoa—" Unlmown "—47. Murder of Rich- mond Jones—Departure from Tnbac-48.