ISSUE ONE ISSUE PARK GROVE 4 5 WORDS Dr. Paul George, Ph.D. little more than a century ago, Greater Miami was a vast wilderness with small clusters of hardy settlers living along the shores of Biscayne Bay. One of those communities was Coconut Grove, which, since the late nineteenth century, has enjoyed a reputation as south Florida’s A most attractive, dynamic and independent-minded community. Its natural setting is unrivaled, for Coconut Grove looks out from behind lush subtropical foliage toward the turquoise waters of the Bay. The province of Tequesta Indians until recent centuries, Coconut Grove was, by the early nineteenth century, a favorite stop for mariners attracted to the bubbling fresh water springs on its waterfront. After the Cape Florida Lighthouse opened in 1825, light keepers and their assistants became frequent visitors to Coconut Grove. Wreckers or salvagers of disabled ships also visited the area. By the middle decades of the nineteenth century, It was Munroe who suggested to his British friends Coconut Grove’s first known permanent residents, that they open a guest house in the area for its Edmund (“Ned”) and Ann Beasley, lived along its ever-growing number of visitors. The Peacocks bay front in the area around today’s Barnacle State opened the Bay View Inn, a simple wood frame Park. When Ned died, Ann rented a portion of their structure, in 1882 in today’s Peacock Park. It was property to Dr. Horace Porter, a onetime Union the first “hotel” in the area. Some of the Inn’s early surgeon. Porter applied for a U.S. Post Office for staffers were black Bahamians who created their the area in 1873, calling it Cocoanut Grove (sic) own settlement along Charles Avenue. after viewing a couple of nearby In the late 1880s, Ralph Coconut Palm trees! Soon after, Munroe discovered Porter’s Porter left the area and the post IN 1917, THE post office from a postal office was quickly forgotten. U.S. NAV Y map at the Fowey Rocks During the 1870s, other settlers, Lighthouse. When he lured by the prospect of free BUILT ONE informed his neighbors land through federal homestead OF THE of this discovery, the post ISSUE ONE ISSUE laws, entered the region. Most NATION’S office was reopened and important of the settlers in Coconut Grove acquired Coconut Grove were the Pent FI RST NAVA L its enduring name. In the PARK GROVE and Frow families, who hailed meantime, the number of 6 AIR STATIONS. 7 from the Bahamas. “Jolly” people visiting the Bay Jack Peacock, keeper of the House of Refuge for View House grew to include a motley collection shipwrecked mariners on today’s Miami Beach, was of eccentrics and creative types, including titled another prominent resident of the Grove. Indeed, counts, writers, naturalists, and even the son of the settlement was sometimes called “Jack’s Bight” famed writer, Harriett Beecher Stowe. Many less for him as well as its curved shoreline. notable Coconut Grove residents labored as In the late 1870s, Jack Peacock convinced his farmers in areas of the Grove west of the settled brother Charles and his family to leave England bay front region. for the wilds of southeast Florida. At the same Soon the Peacocks had enlarged their facility to time, Ralph Munroe, an accomplished sailboat accommodate the increased number of visitors designer from Staten Island, came to Miami on and renamed it the Peacock Inn. It served as the a sailing vacation. Munroe met many of the people community center. Enthralled with the natural living on the bay, including the Peacocks, with splendors of Coconut Grove, many of its visitors whom he became friends. decided to build homes in the area. ISSUE ONE ISSUE PARK GROVE By 1890, Coconut Grove claimed more than one paid for amenities in the community. The fame of and moved south at the outset of the 1900s, the war, the Dinner Key Auditorium opened on part 8 hundred residents ranking it among the largest the Housekeeper’s Club spread quickly. Within one Coconut Grove gained new importance as a farming of the site of the old air base. The facility, recently 9 settlements on the southeast Florida mainland. By year of its inception, Harper’s Magazine, a major community, since produce markets became more razed, served a wide variety of roles, hosting musical then, those institutions associated with maturing national publication, profiled the club. The Pine readily accessible. concerts and sets for a popular television show. communities began to appear. The Biscayne Bay Needles Club, consisting of the young women of America’s entry into World War I in 1917 ushered Ironically, Coconut Grove also became the center of Yacht Club opened in 1887 following a Washington the community, was organized in 1895. Its members in a new era for Coconut Grove as the U.S. Navy Miami’s tumultuous politics after city hall relocated Birthday sailing regatta. In the same year, Isabella established the first library. built one of the nation’s first naval air stations on in 1954 from downtown to Dinner Key. Peacock began conducting Sunday school classes The area’s fortunes changed dramatically in 1896 Dinner Key, formerly an island favored by picnickers. In the middle and latter decades of the twentieth in a building constructed for that purpose. In 1889, after Henry M. Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway More than 1,000 aspiring aviators trained there. In century, Coconut Grove maintained many elements this structure hosted the first public school in the steamed into Miami. Soon hundreds of new 1919, Coconut Grove incorporated as a town and, of its unique identity while continuing to serve county. The Sunday school, moreover, helped spawn settlers were pouring into Dade County. Coconut in the process, dropped the “a” from “Coconut.” as a welcoming venue for creative types. It was the first church, today’s Plymouth Congregational Grove residents viewed the area’s quickening The Grove remained a town for just six years, after home to the writer and environmentalist, Marjory Church, where blacks and whites, for a while, development with concern for they knew that its which the onrushing City of Miami, in the midst of Stoneman Douglas, and author historian Helen worshipped together. pristine environment and casual lifestyle would a great real estate boom, annexed it despite strong Muir, who both lived on the quaint tree-shaded Flora McFarlane, the first woman homesteader suffer accordingly. opposition from Grove residents. Stewart Avenue. Hervy Allen, the best selling and school teacher in the area, founded the In the early 1900s, several wealthy and accomplished In the meantime, the old naval air station site became author of the path breaking Anthony Adverse, Housekeeper’s Club (today’s Woman’s Club of visitors built splendid homes on or near Coconut host to Pan American Airways in 1929. The world’s and a prominent biographer, lived in the Grove, Coconut Grove ) in 1891 with the goal of “community Grove’s bay front, thereby creating a “millionaire’s preeminent airline, Pan American maintained a while the great playwright, Tennessee Williams, uplift,” which it achieved through fundraisers that row.” After the railroad crossed the Miami River seaplane base there through World War II. After who resided in Key West, kept an apartment in Coconut Grove near the Coconut Grove Playhouse, which presented his scintillating plays. America’s poet laureate, Robert Frost, who resided in South Miami over many winters, was a frequent visitor to Coconut Grove, and was especially fond of the barbecue fare served in an outdoor venue near today’s Mayfair Hotel. The roster of musical artists performing in Coconut Grove in the 1960s and 1970s included Donovan, Joni Mitchell, and Jimmy Buffet. A favorite venue for them was the Gaslight Inn on Grand Avenue near the community’s center. The Coconut Grove Playhouse, a converted movie theater, which began featuring live stage performances in 1956, with the presentation of Samuel Beckett’s “Waiting for Godot,” added much to the creativity and hipness of the Grove. Many of America’s most notable performers over the past sixty years, from Tallulah Bankhead to Kathleen Turner, appeared there. In the early 1960s, the Playhouse presented “Irma La Duce.” To generate more publicity for the play, theater officials invited the community’s artists to exhibit their works in an area along the east side of Main Highway across from the Playhouse (in a Paris Left Bank ambiance) across from the theater. Large crowds greeted this exhibition, thus catalyzing the beginning of the Coconut Grove Art Festival, the largest outdoor event of its kind in the Southern United States. While the Playhouse has been closed for the past eight years, a recent arrangement between the State of Florida, Florida International University and other entities promises to pave the way for its reopening. Coconut Grove also flourished as the seat of South Florida’s Bohemian life with its coffee houses, boutique ONE ISSUE art galleries and a popular gathering place in Peacock Park, which drew beatniks and hippies. Eccentrics gravitated to the Grove, paving the way for huge, costumed Halloween street parties, the annual Bed Race, PARK GROVE and the celebrated King Mango Strut, which began in the early 1980s, and spoofs annually those politicians 10 and others whose foibles make for splendid satire. With its parades, art festival and parties, Coconut Grove 11 remains a celebratory neighborhood. Quirky stores were also always a part of the Grove’s charm. The I Ching store, standing where Cocowalk rests today, featured a bewildering array of Chinese memorabilia, while The Joint was a hip clothing store with its tie dyed shirts and jeans.