Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps FRANKFURT ““InIn YYourour Pocket:Pocket: A cheeky,cheeky, wwell-ell- wwrittenritten sserieseries ooff gguidebooks.”uidebooks.” TThehe NNewew YYorkork TimesTimes OOctoberctober - NNovemberovember 22009009 The Book Fair Focus on China Ebbelwei Express The apple cider tram N°41 - €1.75 frankfurt.inyourpocket.com CONTENTS 3 the place to be for change. ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents Frankfurt’s districts 5 Getting streetwise Arrival & Transport 6 Get your bearings on S, U and ICE Ebbelwei Express 7 All aboard the totty tram Culture & Events 8 Theatres and shows Where to stay 11 From park bench to Park Grand Restaurants 16 Local or international, and cafés too Nightlife 29 From light drinking to debauchery Wellness 33 Massages and therapies Adult entertainment 34 Go on then, you naughty businessman What to see 36 The buildings, the history, the river Berlin – city of change. 40 Twenty years after the Wall came Bad Homburg down, the city still pulsates with Skyscrapers 41 history, creativity, variety and Frankfurt’s big boys diversity like nowhere else on earth. This is what makes Berlin Shopping 42 truly unique. Whatever you need To find out more, visit Directory 44 www.mauerfall09.de Maps & Index Centre map 46 Street register 48 Transport map 49 Venue index 50 be open, be free, be berlin. www.be.berlin.de frankfurt.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 4 FOREWORD FRANKFURT DISTRICTS 5 With the advent of a cool autumn, Frankfurters Frankfurt is perhaps the most international city in Germany. German Foreign Minister, Joschka Fischer. Today it holds a heat up as the cultural season kicks off again after Cover story Despite its small size in comparison with the more popular large crowd of young professionals while still maintaining its a lazy summer. Several excellent exhibitions can be cities of Berlin, Hamburg and Munich, Frankfurters speak eclectic character. Numerous bars and restaurants can be A pretty-looking Lady Justitia enjoyed at the city’s reknowned museums, but the more English and do more international business. One can found between Friedberger Landstraße and Oederweg. holds her scales and her sword perceive the dynamic energy just by viewing the skyline, main crowd-puller this season (this year actually) on the Fountain of Justice on an impressive array of modern towers and business is the Book Fair, that will draw over a quarter of Frankfurt’s main square, the institutions. Westend a million bookworms to the city. With a heritage Römer. In the background is The area of choice for business types. It’s a green, mean that extends almost back to the era of Johannes the clock on the facade of power machine: lots of cash, affluent city living and home to the Rathaus, or town hall. Altstadt Gutenberg and his printing press – invented in the Grünebergpark, with spacious green grounds to jog, sunbath Although largely rebuilt after the The backbone of Frankfurt, the Römer square in the Altstadt (Old or flirt with the natives. The Palmengarten is another great nearby town of Mainz coincidentally – the Frankfurt destruction of World War 2, the City), dates back hundreds of years. The well-kept appearance of Westend asset, holding a wonderful array of plant species Book Fair has attracted thousands of publishers, square is still one of Frankfurt’s Römer with the Rathaus (Town Hall) is impressive. However, do not in its botanical garden. writers and readers making it the largest book most atmospheric places. be deceived, most of these old buildings were virtually destroyed fair in the world. Controversially, this year’s guest after World War II and were only recently rebuilt as replicas of the Bockenheim of honour is China which has a certain reputation previous structures. Here also lies the birthplace of the German constitution, founded in 1848 at the Paulskirche (Paul’s Church), You will find both rags and riches in Bockenheim. It contains for banning and persecuting forthright writers and which were both destroyed less than one year later by the riots impressive estates and foreign consulates on the outskirts journalists – but the fair goes to great lengths to www.inyourpocket.com arising from the French revolution. of the Palmengarten, but on the other side it is lined with the accommodate all points of view and to invite exile dull concrete university campus. Perched in the middle of it all writers to speak freely, and herefore this year Innenstadt is the city’s other remaining medieval watchtower. should indeed be one of the more interesting book Message from the Mayor The inner city covers the area from Konstablerwache all the fairs. See all Frankfurt’s events from page 8. way up to Alte Oper. It is home to the Zeil, Germany’s longest Europe In Your Pocket If you are looking for less erudite undertakings, why Welcome to Frankfurt am Main! Fussgängerzone (pedestrian shopping street) with its array not hop on the Ebbelwei Express (see page In Frankfurt am Main, the world- of shops. There is also the Freßgass (a concentration of wide leading Trade Fair centre, restaurants) and Goethestr, holding the smaller, more 7) for a tour of town in a crazy tram with the the doors are always wide open opportunity to get a tad tipsy in the process. refined shops and cafés, and the Friedberger Warte, one to visitors from all over the world. of Frankfurt’s two medieval watchtowers. However The Main metropolis, as one of the you decide to spend your leisure time in Frankfurt, most interesting German cities, we wish you a pleasant stay, and do write to us if is characterized above all by the Bahnhofsviertel extraordinary variety of its cultural Those looking for the excitement of the city’s famous red- you have any suggestions for upcoming issues; activities. email us at [email protected]. light district need not travel far from the Hauptbahnhof. The The Frankfurt’s Opera House is Bahnhofsviertel (train station area) offers all kinds of naughty first class. It has even been chosen treats for lonely businessmen, including peep shows, sex “Opera House of the Year”! shops and countless women of ill-repute. Nonetheless, the But also the shopping streets such as Zeil and Goethes- Bahnhofsviertel contains some nice architecture as well as traße – just to mention two of them – will certainly meet some of the city’s best ethnic restaurants. Though the city has all your wishes. spent much time and money cleaning up the area, the faint of I hope that you will thoroughly enjoy your visit to Frankfurt heart are recommended to stay on Kaiserstr. when walking into am Main and remember with pleasure your stay in our the city centre. Others may say that the area with its red-light city, too. Frankfurt am Main has very much to offer to activities north of Kaiserstr. is the liveliest spot in town. its visitors indeed. Yours sincerely Petra Roth, mayor of Frankfurt am Main Sachsenhausen Sachsenhausen retains charm, making it popular with tourists and young locals. Schweizerstraße is the main street and offers some of the city’s better shopping. The Editorial Copyright notice bars along the cobbled streets of Alt Sachsenhausen Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Text and photos copyright In Your (E-3, MLokalbahnhof) are popular with locals and tourists ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Editorial Contributor Pocket GmbH 2009. Maps copyright alike. Many of the city’s museums are located along Wendy Wrangham, Michael cartographer. All rights reserved. No part the Schaumainkai, as is a large flea market on Saturday Nevermann, Philippe Krueger of this publication may be reproduced mornings. Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In Your Pocket GmbH Research Monika Kierewicz in any form, except brief extracts for Axel-Springer-Str. 39 the purpose of review, without written In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the Layout & Design Tomáš Haman permission from the publisher and 10969 Berlin Photos Mario Andreya (MA), Bornheim 1150th aniversary of the city of Veliky Novgorod. Tel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81 copyright owner. The brand name In Your Look out for a special supplement in our next Rus- Andrea Schweiger (AS), Pocket is used under license from UAB Bornheim, northeast of the centre and nicknamed das Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 50 Jeroen van Marle (JvM) [email protected] In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lustige Dorf (The Funny Village) is the most highly populated sian guides and online at russia.inyourpocket. Maps Kartographie Eichner, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands www.inyourpocket.com [email protected], www.ellomap.de area in Frankfurt. Find a wide variety of cafés, bars, and restaurants with terraces. There is also some great shopping on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the ISSN 1611-9010 Cover: © istockphoto.com Editor’s note to be found on the Bergerstraße. Every Wed and Sat, the Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have © In Your Pocket GmbH, a company The editorial content of In Your Pocket of UAB In Your Pocket Sales & Circulation guides is independent from paid-for square am Uhrtürmchen (at the clock tower) hosts the successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are Vokieciu 10-15 advertising. Sponsored listings are farmer’s market. now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice. General Manager Stephan Krämer clearly marked as such. We welcome all Vilnius, Lithuania Production Manager Philippe Krueger We welcome enquiries from anyone who would tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76 readers‘ comments and suggestions. Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt We have made every effort to ensure Nordend like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either Advertising the accuracy of the information at the Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.