en jabukovac ulica josipa torbara kamenjak upper town medveščak ulica nike grškovića nova ves tuškanac 8 opatička street Stroll along the splendid palaces that line this 10 croatian history ancient street, from the jurjevska ulica museum three-winged palace that’s ul. baltazara dvorničića medvedgradska ulica Soak up this stunning home to the Croatian krležin gvozd Institute of History (at mirogoj cemetery showcase of Baroque, the 7 stone gate → 10 minutes by bus from Kaptol Vojković-Oršić-Kulmer- #10) to the neo-classical Rauch Palace built in the palace of the aristocratic Light a candle and take in the silence inside the only city gate Meander around the maze of walking paths that 18th century. Once the “it” Drašković family (at #18). preserved since the Middle Ages, a place of worship for the crisscross this monumental cemetery, opened in spot for the city’s elite Check out the Zagreb City devout from all over Croatia. First mentioned in the medieval 1876 and today Croatia’s largest. Shaded by tall trees who gathered in its grand Museum inside the former times, the gate was rebuilt after the big fire that swept the city and dotted with sculptures and pavilions, Mirogoj ulica vladimira nazora hall for balls and concerts, convent of St Claire and in 1731 but miraculously spared a painting of Virgin Mary – and is a serene, gorgeously landscaped park with neo- today the majestic palace take a peep at the turret so the gate became a chapel dedicated to the Mother of God, Renaissance arcades designed by Herman Bollé. houses the Croatian called the Priest’s Tower at with flickering candle lights and plaques of gratitude covering History Museum, with 9 st mark’s square the northern end, built in the walls. Past the gate, see the bronze statue of Dora Krupićeva, ulica benedikta vinkovića of classic Zagreb classic of the 13th century as part of temporary exhibits that Marvel at the colourful a character from Croatia’s first historical novel, The Goldsmith’s 4 tkalčićeva street highlight different episodes the city’s defense system Gold, written by the great Croatian novelist August Šenoa. A walking map map walking A rooftop of St Mark’s Church, and since 1903 featuring Stroll down the street where a stream ran in of local history. adorned with coats of arms ulica adolfa vebera step an observatory on the top the past, which once upon a time separated on its glazed roof tiles; floor of its dome. the medieval settlements of Kaptol and check out Banski Dvori, ulica tome mikloušića zvonarnička ulica Gradec and was lined with watermills. Today, 11 st cyril and methodius street home of the Croatian the pedestrian Tkalča, as locals lovingly call See the wealth of Baroque palaces along government (Vlada it, is a street of pastel-coloured townhouses this street named after Cyril and Methodius, Republike Hrvatske); see and bustling cafe terraces. Stop by the statue the building of Croatia’s dubravkin put gas lamps Slavic missionaries from the 9th century. stube bartola felbingera of Marija Jurić Zagorka, a renowned Croatian by by Gape at the gas-powered St Cyril (Constantine) devised the Glagolitic Constitutional Court; and writer and the first professional female saunter by Hrvatski Sabor, lamps that have been illuminating alphabet, the first Slavic script, and together the city for more than 150 years. journalist who spoke up on women’s rights the Croatian parliament. Two hours before the sun goes down with St Methodius spread Slavic literacy. ulica ivana tkalčića way back in the early 20th century, and wrote Stop by the Greek Catholic Co-cathedral Make out the face carved every day, designated lamp lighters a number of novels set in Zagreb, including begin manually lighting more than that is dedicated to this pair, and visit the into a corner building; the Witch of Gric series. See the sundial just it’s said to be the head of 200 of these old-school beauties, Croatian Museum of Naive Art, which guards perched high on cast-iron pillars behind Zagorka’s statue, an art project from step step works by more than 20 masters of the genre. Matija Gubec, leader of and facades around the Upper 1955 which still shows the right time. ulica dimitrija demetra Town and Kaptol. Ogle the Old City Hall, where the sessions of the 16th-century peasant uprising who was – so the 8 the City Assembly and marriage ceremonies ribnjak story goes – executed on are held. If it (the marriage) doesn’t work 2 the cathedral the square. ulica kožarska ulica đure basaričeka kaptol out, take comfort in the quirky Museum of mletačka ulica Broken Relationships. Gaze at Zagreb’s cathedral, mlinske Croatia’s largest sacral build- ul. tita brezovačkog stube 5 bloody bridge ulica 29. x. 1918. ulica radićeva ing, that has stood in this ul. v. lisinskog opatička ulica opatička Cross this small cobblestone spot for eight entire centuries. street where there was once Damaged several times by tuškanac visoka ulica a bridge over the Medveščak fires and earthquakes, it got mesnička ulica 9 stream. It was named after the its neo-Gothic look at the trg fights that the two neighbour- turn of the 20th century. Size 10 ul. josipa freudenreicha sv. marka ing hilltop settlements, Gradec up the Renaissance ramparts kamenita ulica and Kaptol, had right on this by the cathedral, built in the publisher 7 spot for centuries. In 1899 the 16th century to ward off the ulica ivana gorana kovačića Zagreb Tourist Board ulica antuna g. matoša stream was paved over and Turkish invasion. The cathe- male stube the bridge removed but the ulica josipa kuševića dral has a treasury (admission on behalf of the publisher tkalčića ulica ivana menacing name of the alley step Martina Bienenfeld, Ph.D. 6 by prior appointment only) ul. pavla rittera vitezovića remains to this day. displaying liturgical items design, layout & illustration kapucinske stube made of gold, silver, wood and Superstudio, Zagreb 13 ulica vladimira nazora streljačka ulica ulica sv. ćirila i metoda parchment that bear witness trg franje markovića 11 stube šandora a. alexandera copywriting & proofreading opatovina by jezuitski trg to many centuries of ulica a. i k. vranyczany Anja Mutić rokov perivoj skalinska ulica Christianity in these parts. trg katarine 12 5 zrinske printed by krvavi most grič tunnel grič step --- 14 strossmayer promenade Go underground to this 2 stube josipa schlossera pedestrian tunnel built during A walking map photos by Take a leisurely stroll along Štros, as Zagreb WWII as an air raid shelter. šetalište j. j. strossmayera Zagreb Tourist Board Archives Today it’s a great shortcut of classic Zagreb (D. Rostuhar, M. Vrdoljak) locals call the city’s first public walkway, a leafy promenade lined with benches, chestnut trees that connects several 3 dolac city centre streets and Zagreb Tourist Board and dazzling vistas of the city below. Share the 4 Kaptol 5, 10000 Zagreb hosts frequent exhibits. ulica radićeva 3 Feast your senses on this colourful farmers’ market with its bench with the statue of great Croatian writer 14 www.infozagreb.hr dežmana ivana ulica iconic red parasols, and laden with the freshest fruit and veg. [email protected] Antun Gustav Matoš, who sits there wistfully For more information about the city, stube ivana zakmardija bakača tome ulica At the top of the stairs don’t miss the monument to the kumica, Although the publisher has made every gazing at the city. Look at Lotrščak Tower and explore www.infozagreb.hr or visit one pod zidom a village woman dressed in folk costume with a basket on her of the Zagreb Visitor Centres / Tourist effort to ensure that the information in climb to the top for panoramic views – but head. It’s a tribute to these hardworking women from the this publication was correct at the time of don’t get startled by its cannon blast that has Info Centres. going to press, the publisher is unable to Zagreb surroundings who for centuries have been selling their splavnica marked noon every day for centuries. Take tomića eugena josipa take any responsibility for errors and any harmica own products, like corn breads and eggs, on Dolac, the so-called Visitor Centre mesnička ul. changes posterior to publication. the 64-second ride on the blue funicular, the “belly of Zagreb”. See the bronze guy clutching his guitar on the Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11 trg bana world’s shortest cable railway used for public 12 catherine’s small nearby square filled with flower stalls? That’s the statue transport, which has linked the Lower and the square josipa jelačića Visitor Centre 6 radićeva street 1 of famous literary character Petrica Kerempuh, Croatia’s Franjo Tuđman Airport Upper towns since 1890. national jester. find out more Admire the striking Amble up this steep Ulica Rudolfa Fizira 21, Baroque church of St charming cobblestone Velika Gorica 13 klovićevi dvori Catherine that graces the ulica draškovićeva gallery & street, one of the oldest in Tourist Info Centre namesake square. Built by Zagreb. It was once called gradec plateau Jesuits in the 17th century, Zagreb Railway Station Long Street and lined ulica kurelčeva Pop into the former Jesuit this single-aisle church 1 ban jelačić square Trg kralja Tomislava 12 preobraženja sv. ulica with wooden houses later jurišićeva ulica monastery from the 17th with six side chapels had its trg petra replaced by townhouses Make a wish and throw a coin into Manduševac Tourist Info Centre preradovića century that today houses facade reconstructed that you’ll see today. In the fountain – an ancient spring named after Manda, Lotrščak Tower Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, by Herman Bollé after the 19th century, Radićeva was a gorgeous girl who according to legend once gave Šetalište J.J.