d's Dairy orl In W du e st h r t y g W n i e e v Since 1876 k r e l y S PRECISE, RAPID SHREDS with Urschel CHEESE REPORTER urschel.com Vol. 144, No. 19 • Friday, October 25, 2019 • Madison, Wisconsin EU Grants GI Status To Havarti; US Milk Production Rose 1.6% In Sept. Non-EU Countries Blast Decision Cow Numbers Up Brussels, Belgium—The European Zealand (DCANZ), and Dairy Annex B of the Stresa Convention 7,000 Head In 24 Commission this week granted the Australia, supported by the Aus- of 1951 and it has its own tariff Reporting States country of Denmark protected tralian government. The European line; and production and consump- geographical indication (GI) sta- Commission also received notices tion of Havarti exists in several EU Washington—US milk produc- tion in the 24 reporting states tus for Havarti cheese, a decision of opposition from Camara Nacio- and non-EU countries, certain of during September totaled 16.83 that drew scathing criticism from nal de Productores de Leche of which have a specific legal stan- billion pounds, up 1.6 percent from several non-EU countries. Costa Rica and from Asociacion dard for it. September 2018, USDA’s National Denmark had applied for GI sta- de Desarollo Lacto of Guatemala. The European Commission has Agricultural Statistics Service tus for Havarti about nine years The opponents claimed that assessed the arguments expressed Havarti does not possess a specific in the statements of opposition (NASS) reported Monday. ago. In 2014, the Commission That was the largest percentage quality, reputation or other charac- and has concluded that the name published Denmark’s application, increase in milk production in the teristics that are attributable to the “Havarti” should be registered. and accepted input on it. 24 reporting states this year; the geographical origin, the Commis- Denmark, the Commission Denmark’s request for protec- previous high, 1.2 percent, was in sion noted in its decision granting noted, submitted a number of tion of Havarti as a geographical January. August’s milk production GI status to Havarti. Opponents specialized publications and ref- indication is based on its spe- estimate was revised up by 32 mil- cific reputation and production consider that the registration of the erences that demonstrate that a lion pounds, so August output was method, according to Denmark’s name would be liable to mislead reputational link exists between up 0.5 percent from August 2018, application. Both inside and out- consumers as to the true identity Denmark and “Havarti.” This rather than up 0.4 percent as ini- side the European Union (EU), of the product in light of the repu- cheese was granted with numer- tially estimated. Havarti has a reputation for being tation and renown of an existing ous distinctions, prizes, awards Production per cow in the 24 a specialty of Danish origin. trademark. In their opinion, that received in various national or reporting states averaged 1,913 Opposing Denmark’s request registration would also jeopardize international fora. The reputation pounds for September, 33 pounds were the US Dairy Export Council the existence of identical name, of this product is also built on its above September 2018. (USDEC), National Milk Produc- trademarks and products that have specific method of production and The number of milk cows on ers Federation (NMPF), Interna- been legally on the market for at historical “savoir faire.” farms in the 24 reporting states in tional Dairy Foods Association least five years. As regards the EU territory, September was 8.796 million head, (IDFA), and the Office of the US In addition, opponents alleged Havarti is produced essentially in 11,000 head less than September Trade Representative (USTR), that the name “Havarti” is pre- Denmark, the Commission noted. 2018, but 7,000 head more than along with Germany, Spain, the sumed to have become generic for At the date of application, Spain, August 2019. Ministry of Foreign Affairs and several reasons, including: Havarti Germany, Poland, Finland and Milk production in the US dur- Trade of New Zealand, the Dairy has had a Codex Alimentarius ing the July-September quarter Companies Association of New standard since 1966; it is listed in • See GI Status For Havarti, p. 8 totaled 54.26 billion pounds, up 0.5 percent from the same quar- ter last year. Second-quarter milk FDA Planning To Give Organic Rogue River Blue Is First US production had been down 0.1 per- Food Companies An Cheese To Top World Cheese Awards cent from a year earlier, while first- quarter output had been up 0.1 Extra Six Months To Bergamo, Italy—Organic Rogue Barden, chairman of the judging percent from 2018’s first quarter. River Blue from Rogue Cream- panel. In third place was a raw The average number of milk Complete Nutrition ery of Central Point, OR, was sheep’s milk cheese from Spain, cows in the US during the third Facts Label Changes crowned best overall cheese at Torta del Casar D.O.P. Virgen the 2019 World Cheese Awards Del Prado, made by Queseria • See Milk Output Up, p. 6 Silver Spring, MD—The US Food (WCA) here late last week, and Doña Francisca S.L. and Drug Administration (FDA) became the first ever US entry to It’s been nearly 16 years since this week announced that, dur- Change In Milk Cows earn the top prize. Rogue River Blue was recognized Sept 2018 vs. Sept 2019 ing the first six months follow- in 1000 head Rogue River Blue, described at the World Cheese Awards in 30000 ing the Jan. 1, 2020, compliance by one contest judge as “a taste 2003, said Rogue Creamery presi- date for the new Nutrition Facts party,” rose to the top among a dent David Gremmels. label requirements, it plans to record-breaking 3,804 entries After that, “I worked with 17000 work cooperatively with manufac- from 42 different countries. regulators, legislators and side-by- turers to meet the new Nutrition 10000 Made with organic cow’s milk, side with the USA Cheese Guild 6000 6000 Facts label requirements and will the cheese is cave-aged for nine creating the first raw milk cheese not focus on enforcement actions to 11 months and hand-wrapped health certificate and now Rogue regarding these requirements dur- in organic Syrah grape leaves that River Blue is amongst other ing that time. -4000 have been soaked in pear liqueur. American cheeses like Pleas- -5000 -6000 -5000 FDA had published final rules At the end of the final judg- ant Ridge Reserve and Harbison on the new Nutrition Facts label ing, Rogue River Blue was tied that can be found in fine cheese for packaged foods in May of with a 24-month aged Nazionale shops and restaurants in Europe, 2016. Two years later, the agency del Parmigiano Reggiano Latte- Australia, Japan and around the extended the compliance dates by ria Sociale Santo Stefano, leav- -32000 • See Nutrition Facts, p. 7 ing the deciding vote to Nigel • See World Cheese Awards, p. 10 CA ID WI CO MN TX MI OH NY PA Page 2 CHEESE REPORTER October 25, 2019 Past Issues Read this week’s issue EDITORIAL COMMENT or past issues of Cheese Reporter on US-made cheeses have long been your mobile phone or tablet by scanning this considered “inferior” among some QR code. DICK GROVES folks...who simply believe that the Cheese Reporter Publishing Co. Inc. ©2019 best cheese in the world comes from countries that have some of 2810 Crossroads Drive, Suite 3000 Publisher / Editor Madison, WI 53718-7972 the oldest and most well-established (608) 246-8430 • Fax (608) 246-8431 Cheese Reporter cheesemaking traditions. http://www.cheesereporter.com e: [email protected] DICK GROVES tw: @cheesereporter Publisher/Editor e-mail: [email protected] 608-316-3791 US Cheese Comes Of Age MOIRA CROWLEY More than 43 years ago, in May been considered “inferior” among made far greater advances on the Specialty Cheese Editor e-mail: [email protected] of 1976, an event that came to be some folks, including some people world stage than California wines 608-316-3793 known as the “Judgment of Paris” in the industry as well as numer- had prior to the “Judgement of KEVIN THOME took place, and it forever changed ous consumers, who simply believe Paris.” Advertising & Marketing Director the world of wine (or at least Cali- that the best cheese in the world As David Gremmels, presi- e-mail: [email protected] fornia wine). Last Friday in Ber- comes from countries that have dent of Rogue Creamery, pointed 608-316-3792 gamo, Italy, an event took place some of the oldest and most well- out, its been nearly 16 years since BETTY MERKES Classifieds/Circulation Manager that could forever change the established cheesemaking tradi- Rogue River Blue was recognized e-mail: [email protected] world of US-made cheese. tions. with a Gold medal at the World 608-316-3790 By way of brief background, the And some of those countries, Cheese Awards in 2003. REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS: “Judgment of Paris” was a blind and some of their best-known More recently, US companies Jen Pino-Gallagher, Bob Cropp, Neville taste test of California and French cheeses, went head-to-head with have had some pretty impressive McNaughton, Dan Strongin, John Umhoefer Rogue River Blue in Bergamo, showings in international cheese You can e-mail our contributors at: wines. Back in 1976, according [email protected] to various sources, the wine busi- Italy, last week. competitions. In 2018, seven US ness was basically French wine and Indeed, the contest’s top 16 cheese companies were among the The Cheese Reporter is the official everything else.