21 Int. J. Speleol., 27 B (1/4), (1998); 21-31. THE CAVE EXPLORATION GROUP OF EAST AFRICA AND VOLCANIC CAVES IN KENYA Michael Declan Kennedy ABSTRACT This paper looks at the history of the Cave Exploration Group of East Africa with special reference to the exploration of volcanic caves. It demonstrates that the group has concentrated on two main areas, the Chyulu Hills and Mt. Suswa, although other areas have also been studied. The Cave Exploration Group of East Africa has had to cope with various problems. The most important of which are related to the socio-economic condi- tions of a developing country. These problems have not prevented the group from making a valuable contribu- tion to vulcanospeleology. Keywords: Caving Club, vulcanospeleology, Kenya FORMATION OF THE CAVE EXPLORATION GROUP OF EAST AFRICA The history of cave exploration in Kenya goes back at least 5,000 years. Dr. L.S.B. Leakey found evidence of human habitation at Gamble's Cave at Elmentaita. This dated from the Upper Kenya Capsian period (5,000-10,000 b.p.) (Clarke, 1996). Various Kenyan communities used caves as refuges, burial centres, for minerals and as religious centres (Mwaniki, 1973). The first published account of caves in Kenya is Joseph Thomson's account of the Mt. Elgon caves, although he mistakenly decided that these were formed by an ancient superior civilization mining for "precious stones or possible some precious metal" (Thomson, 1885). The caves are formed by water erosion in solu- ble pyroclastics, but have been extended by mining (Bristow, 1961). Although the Cave Exploration Group of East Africa was formed during April and May 1964, its origins lie slightly earlier. Dr. P.E. Glover, of the Dept. of Veterinary Service and Dr. Guest, of the Mines and Geological Dept., accompanied by their families, paid a visit to Mt. Suswa. They were guided by Mr. D. Hobden, also of the Mines and Geological Dept., who had been carrying out geothermal investigations in the area. Dr, Glover had noticed holes in the lava flow on Mt. Suswa from the air, but had not been able to get access to them until Mr, Hobden had made a track up the mountain, The weekend visit confirmed Dr. Glover's suspicions that these holes gave access to lava tubes (Glover, 1965), Dr. Glover found evidence that primitive man had visited the caves. This took the form of obsidian artefacts and stone tools. The local Maasai confirmed that the caves had been visited by Wandorobo (now more commonly called Okiek) hunter gatherers. The caves were used during the Emergency (1952-60) b~ Mau Mau freedom fighters as refuges. The Maasai themselves were reluctant to venture beyond the day-lit entrances of the caves (Glover, 1965), Dr. Glover began a scientific study of the caves. In compa- ny with other interested parties, he began the initial mapping of the area and began to survey caves. Studies were also caJTied out on the geology and ecology of the area, • Librarian, Cave Exploration Group of East Africa - P.O. Box 47363 - Nairobi, Kenya. 22 M. D. Kennedy Mr. Hobden's road gave easier access to the lava flows and the number of visitors increased. Many of these visitors came for scientific studies, but others did not share their respect for caves. Specimens were damaged and artefacts, including bones, were removed. To protect the Mt. Suswa caves, a conference was held during April and May 1964 amongst interested parties with a view to conserving the caves and to encourage their scientific exploration. These conferences took place at the National Museum of Kenya and resulted in the formation of the Cave Exploration Group of East Africa, with Dr. Glover as the first president of the Society. CAVING AREAS During the first year and a half of the existence of the Cave Exploration Gr~up of East Africa, Mt. Suswa was the main area of exploration. Forty per cent of all caving trips were to Mt. Suswa. These expeditions concentrated on surveying known caves, searching for new caves, the geological structure of the caves and the fauna and flora of the caves and the surrounding area. This seeming overconcentration on one area is justified in that it is one of the most complicated areas of lava tubes in the world. In 1971, four new caves were discovered on Suswa (Davis, 1971 a, King, 1971). Indeed in 1973 a whole new area of lava tubes was discovered and explored by Arkle, Davis, Mason, Shuttleworth and Simons. This was near the moat and a good distance from navigable roads. A new tube entrance was found about 200m from the well visited entrance, Collapse 12. Other areas visited in this period included Mt. Elgon and the rediscovery of the Cave of God (Ngumut Ngai in the Maasai language, Maa), which was described by Gregory in his account of his journey through the Rift Valley (Simons, 1969). Simons identified 39 known caves or collapses with the potential for extension via digging or pushing (Simons, 1979). The sheer number of tubes in the lava flow and the complicated arrangement makes it well worthy of study. In the main cave area there are 69 known entrances with some 40 cave series totally over II km of passage (Simons, 1998). As the Cave Exploration Group of East Africa gained new information more cave areas were added to our knowledge. Erosional caves in the Kiambu and Thika regions were explored. These caves were popular as they close to Nairobi and quite sporting. The badlands area around Mt. Eburru and the Rift Valley north of Nakuru were also popular (Davis, 197Ib). Small caves were also explored on the Delamere Estate near Lake Elmentaita. This period also saw the initial exploration of the Chyulu Hills that was to become a major focus of future study. The Chyulu Hills area was known to have caves. Shaitani Cave had been fitted with ladders to allow tourists to the Mzima Springs camps to visit about 200m of passage. In 1969 new passages were found in the area running from collapse holes (Simons, 1971). The Chyulu's, being a comparatively young chain, had many areas of fresh lava flows. These had every indication of cave bearing potential. The North Chyulu area has many fine tubes, some of which appear to be part of a blocked linear tube (Simons, 1972b). The Mathioni Cave was mined for bat guano and opened as a show cave (Simons, I972c). Other caves and trenches arc found all along the Chyulu's, but there has been little exploration of the Western side of the range. Currently ninety different cave struc- tures have been located in the Chyulu's (Simons, 1998). In 1974 CEGEA had a major change of direction. Aerial photos had shown what appeared to be more entrance holes in the Chyulu Hills, in a lava flow running down to the Kibwezi area. Upon investigation the following year - they went. The first reports THE CAVE EXPLORATION GROUP OF EAST AFRICA AND VOLCANIC CAVES IN KENYA 23 indicated a half kilometre of tube on either side of the entrance. This gradually got longer and longer on each visit. It was announced that Leviathan existed (Simons, 1976). This was like a drug. Every other two weeks there was a trip to extend this mon- ster. We were going to get the longest lava tube in the world. The thing was immense and it had levels that seemed to breed new levels. Hard core members such as Dave Womack and John Arkle gave up weekends of their lives moving the maypole, digging, pushing and surveying to do justice to one of the greatest underground systems known to human kind. We ended up with over twelve kilometres of cave and are still digging at the Top Choke in hope of extending it further. Leviathan saw the most intensive effort ever on the part of the Cave Exploration Group of East Africa when 19 people descend- ed on the site from the 10th to the 19th April 1976 to survey the monster. The first tran- sit was made in 1985. This involved teams on the surface waiting to service the under- ground team. To everyone's surprise the underground team made much better progress than the support team which had to batter its way across the bush to various entrances. Several other caves, such as ABC and Pango ya Moshi (Smoke Cave) were found in the vicinity of Leviathan, but were found to be separate systems. There was a decline in activity in Leviathan during the late 1970's and early 1980's. The newsletter expresses surprise at this, but in retrospect it can be explained in economic terms. In the early 1970's Kenya went through recession caused by the effects of the oil price shock after the Yom Kippur war of 1973. Between 1976 and 1978 there was the 'coffee boom'. The economic chaos in Uganda under Idi Amin Dada led to massive smuggling of Ugandan coffee through Kenya. This coincided with a world coffee shortage and consequent high prices. The ouster of Amin and the decline of coffee prices in the face of the world recession after the second OPEC price hike of 1979 hit the Kenyan economy badly. Cavers could not afford the long travel needed to spend a weekend at Leviathan and they tended to concentrate on the nearer Mt. Suswa. As the economy began to recover there were massive efforts to study and survey the upper levels. The Cave Exploration Group of East Africa logbook is full of entries that say "moved the maypole".