Introduction California Road Trip A Climber’s Guide Northern California by Tom Slater and Chris Summit With contributing authors Steve Edwards and Marty Lewis Guidebook layout and design by Tom Slater Maps by Amy Panzardi, Tom Slater, & Marty Lewis MAXIMVS PRESS California Road Trip - North NORTHERN CALIFORNI A Over view Map 199 Cresent City N 101 97 Eureka Goose 299 Lake 5 101 Section 5 Alturas North Coast 29 9 page 376 Redding Red Bluff 395 5 1 101 Chico Section 4 Tahoe Area page 286 5 99 Santa Rosa 80 116 80 Lake Sacramento Tahoe 99 50 12 99 Section 2 88 Yosemite/ 1 116 101 Gold Country 88 page 147 80 12 San 680 Francisco Oakland 580 Modesto Yosemite San 12 0 99 Nat. Park 395 Santa Jose Cruz Merced Section 1 Section 3 Lee San Francisco Vining Southern Sierra Bay Area page 30 Salinas page 227 1 99 6 101 5 Bishop King Fresno City Kings Canyon Nat. Park Sequoia Death Nat. Park Valley 99 Nat. 46 Park 19 0 MartyGraphic Lewis Bakersfiel d 395 17 8 10 California Road Trip - North Table of Contents Foreword......................................12 Sequoia/Kings.Cyn..Overview........113 Moro Rock **** .............................................114 Preface..........................................14 Little Baldy *** .............................................120 Introduction................................16 Chimney Rock **** ......................................123 Buck Rock **.................................................127 Key.to.Stars Shaver.Lake.Overview......................129 Tollhouse Rock *** .......................................130 ***** World Class. Squarenail Rock **.......................................134 **** Excellent destination crag. Dogma Dome * ............................................137 *** Regionally famous, good Courtright Reservoir **** ...........................139 destination. ** Good local crag. SECTION 2N— * Good if passing through. YOSEMITE/GOLD COUntry SECTION 1N— Section.2.Overview..................147. SOUTHERN SIERRA Shuteye Ridge **** ......................................150 So. Yosemite - Fresno Dome*** .................163 Section.1.Overview....................30. Willow Creek Wall * ....................................167 Eastern.Sierra........................................33 Yosemite.Overview............................168 Alabama Hills** ............................................ 34 Yosemite ***** ...............................................168 Whitney Portal **** ....................................... 38 Tuolumne *****.............................................183 Buttermilks ***** ............................................42 Little Egypt ** ................................................44 Sonora.Pass.Hwy..Overview............197 Cardinal Pinnacle *** ....................................46 Table Mt. - The Grotto *** ...........................197 Happy Boulders **** .....................................48 Burst Rock *** ..............................................203 Owens River Gorge ***** ..............................50 Donell Vista Boulder * ................................208 Pine Creek **** ...............................................56 Column of the Giants *** ............................210 Rock Creek *** ...............................................59 Chipmunk Flat ** ........................................213 Looking Wall * ...............................................63 Bear Valley/Hwy. 4 ** ................................216 Warming Wall * .............................................64 Calaveras Domes **** .................................220 Mammoth Lakes Basin *** ...........................65 Crystal Crag ...................................................68 Bear Crag *** ..................................................70 SECTION 3N— Clark Canyon *** ...........................................73 SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA Matrimony Wall * ..........................................80 Deadman’s Summit ** .................................81 Bachar Boulders * ..........................................83 Section.3.Overview..................227. Granite Basin ** .............................................84 Transpire Wall ** ...........................................86 Slate’s Spire, Big Sur * ................................230 Tioga Cliff *** .................................................87 Granite Creek * ............................................232 Pinnacles NM **** .......................................234 Castle Rock *** .............................................247 Southern.Sierra....................................89 Handley Rock *...........................................256 Needles ***** .................................................. 89 Beaver Street * .............................................258 Kern River Crags *** .................................. 103 Glen Canyon * .............................................260 Indian Joe Caves * .......................................262 Western.Sierra....................................113 Mount Diablo ** ..........................................264 Introduction 11 Berkeley.Area......................................266 Putah Creek ** .............................................382 Grizzly Peak ** ............................................266 Sugarloaf Ridge ..........................................384 Remillard * ...................................................268 Mount Saint Helena *** ..............................386 Cragmont * ...................................................270 Goat Rock *** ...............................................392 Mortar Rock *** ...........................................271 Pomo Canyon * ............................................395 Indian Rock ** ..............................................274 Sea Crag ** ....................................................397 Ring Mountain ** ........................................275 Fort Ross *** .................................................400 Mount Tamalpais * ......................................277 Salt Point *** .................................................403 Stinson.Beach.Area............................279 Moonstone/Houlda Point ** .....................407 Mickey’s Beach *** ......................................279 Patrick’s Point ** ..........................................409 Stinson Beach ** ...........................................284 Promontory** ...............................................411 Footsteps*** ..................................................414 Marble Caves *** .........................................415 SECTION 4N— Trinity Arêtes **** ........................................418 TAHOE AREA Castle Crags **** ..........................................423 Oregon Additions: Section.4.Overview..................286. Ashland Boulders * .....................................429 Gold Beach * ................................................431 Cosumnes River ** ......................................289 Mosquito Coast ** .......................................293 The Bar **......................................................294 Appendix.............................................432 Rocklin * .......................................................296 Best Routes You’ve Maybe Sugarloaf **** ...............................................297 Never Heard Of .......................................... 432 Phantom Spires *** ......................................302 California Trivia ......................................... 433 Lover’s Leap **** .........................................308 Top 10 Tourist Destination ........................ 434 Echo Lakes *** ..............................................315 Luther Rock *** ............................................321 Index.....................................................437 Pie Shop *** ..................................................324 Eagle Creek ***.............................................329 Bliss State Park *** .......................................336 Castle Rock *** .............................................339 Cave Rock ....................................................340 Shakespeare Rock * .....................................341 Dinosaur Rock * ..........................................343 Spooner Summit ** .....................................345 Ballbuster * ...................................................347 Trippy Rock * ...............................................348 Old County *** .............................................349 Twins Crag** ................................................351 Big Chief **** ................................................353 River Rock* ..................................................357 Donner Summit **** ....................................358 Big Bald Rock * ............................................367 Feather River/Grizzly Dome ** ................369 Mount Lassen *** .........................................372 SECTION 5N— NortH COAST Section.5.Overview..................376. Vacaville * .....................................................379 John “Verm” Sherman bouldering at Goat Rock. 12 California Road Trip - North FOREWORD by Royal Robbins Of our 50 states, I can’t say that the best rock climbing is in California. It probably is, but I haven’t yet sampled the possibilities in each of the other 49. It’s certain that some other states bristle with climbable rock – Colorado, Utah, and Wyoming spring instantly to mind. But California is filthy-rich in this resource. We’ve got rock everywhere, but particularly