STATE OF PLAY STATE FOOD + WINE CRITTENDEN ESTATE THE ZUMMA PINOT NOIR 2018 MORNINGTON PENINSULA, RRP $57 VICTORIAN NOBILITY For the Zumma range, Crittenden Estate sources fruit from a small portion STATE OF PLAY THE YARRA VALLEY AND MORNINGTON PENINSULA of their original home vineyard, which they’ve been tending since 1982. They PRODUCE SOME OF AUSTRALIA'S MOST NOBLE draw inspiration from the great wines EXPRESSIONS OF THE BELOVED PINOT NOIR. of Burgundy for this Pinot, which Words Stuart Knox is reflected in its beautiful depth of flavour. In the glass, it's light to medium PINOT NOIR inot Noir has fascinated regions continue to be at the leading red, while the nose exudes aromas of winemakers and wine-lovers for edge of premium Pinot Noir production whole bunch spice with red fruit and Pcenturies, with it being recognised in Australia. earthy notes. Bright and vibrant, it in France as a high quality variety as far The two regions, while only separated features wild ferment complexity adding back as the Middle Ages. Fast forward to by approximately 100 kilometres, to the ripe strawberry and raspberry the beginning of Australian wine and you are a fantastic contrast of style. Tom core, with hints of green olive and will find that Pinot Noir was included in Carson of Yabby Lake (Mornington) mushroom and well-judged charry oak. some of the earliest plantings by James and Serrat (Yarra) describes the wines Busby in the 1830s. of Mornington, and Yabby Lake in RED CLAW PINOT NOIR 2019 It is a notoriously difficult variety to particular. “I find the wines a little bit MORNINGTON PENINSULA, RRP $30 grow, with thin skins leaving it sensitive darker, more brooding, with quite good The Red Claw label is by Mornington to temperature fluctuations and prone to concentration and tannin extract.” Peninsula experts, Yabby Lake and the disease pressure. Those thin skins mean The maritime influence on the range is designed to be enjoyed when that it is better suited to cooler regions, Mornington Peninsula makes every young and bright. From the excellent but with cooler regions come a myriad of vintage a unique challenge for the 2019 vintage, this Pinot Noir benefitted other challenges in the ripening process. region’s makers. Barney Flanders of from even ripening, resulting in intensity One last challenge in its production Garagiste sources fruit from across the and gorgeous flavours. Presenting a is that it does not respond to high entire Mornington region, from Tuerong bright mid ruby colour, it has a nose cropping levels, meaning the return per to Balnarring and Red Hill. While he offering cherry, cranberry, Italian bitters acre is meagre in comparison to many acknowledges there are different soil and rhubarb aromas. Masses of red other varieties. So why the fascination? types and elevations that will have an berry fruit on the palate with varietal Humanity always enjoys a challenge and effect on individual sites, it’s the bodies touches of orange rind, white mushroom Pinot produces some of the finest wines of water that really change the ripening and forest floor, vibrant acidity, supple ever made, so the reward is definitely of each vineyard. “Aspect to prevailing texture and a long, fine finish. worth the effort. winds and whether you’re closer to Pinot Noir produces light to Port Phillip Bay or Western Port. How TARRAWARRA ESTATE RESERVE medium-bodied wines, often showing your sites relate to that and the weather PINOT NOIR 2015 cherry and berry fruits with savoury patterns.” This is how Barney explains YARRA VALLEY, RRP $60 elements in the spectrum of mushroom, the variations across the region and why The 2015 vintage was ideal in the Yarra truffles and damp earth. Often acid and one vineyard may be picked up to a Valley with its warm days and cool tannins are interplayed to bring vibrancy month later than another. nights during ripening allowing for fine and structure. The greatest examples When we turn to Tom’s home flavour development and retention of show amazing complexity, building and vineyard at Serrat, and the Yarra in acid. The result was fantastic wines like growing across the palate, a sensation general, he says, “The wines are typically this reserve beauty from Tarrawarra which the late Len Evans AO OBE more of those red fruits and florals and I Estate. Medium brick to garnet described as 'the peacock’s tail'. find the wines are more silky and finer coloured, it appeals with aromas of when young…a lovely balance that blood plum, dark cherry, leather, clove VICTORIAN REVIVAL comes through right from the get-go.” and mocha. While it's drinking close to In our modern era of winemaking, the Steve Flamsteed of Giant Steps sees those its peak, it features primary red fruits Yarra Valley was revived in the late same Yarra characters and believes over that are still very fresh, chocolate, game 1960s, with the Mornington Peninsula the past 10 or so years there’s been an and earth complexity, cedary tannins not far behind in the early 1970s. Both emerging Yarra Valley style that embraces and a dry, savoury finish. 50 51 MAR|APR 21 MAR|APR 21 STATE OF PLAY STATE FOOD + WINE This desire for complexity drives all of the Pinot clones is distinct. Lindsay the winemakers I spoke McCall of Paringa Estate planted his first Pinot Noir in the late 1980s. At to. They all aim to keep the time, he was limited to a few local clones, MV6 (Mother Vine clone sourced as many of their single from Maurice O’Shea plantings in the are healthier and wild ferments seem to Hunter Valley) and other UC Davis be the favoured method amongst them. vineyards, individual stock. In the 1990s, he was able to secure Going hand in hand with this is a move another vineyard and graft part of the to larger fermentation vessels. Lindsay blocks and even specific Chardonnay over to a selection of the waxed lyrical about his three foudres, clones separate during Dijon clones (777 and 115). large wooden vats, which he ferments “We’re catching up on the newer his reds in. If he could fit more in the vinification and clones of Pinot, which is quite exciting. I winery, he’d buy more in an instant. hadn’t planted for 20 years then suddenly “They do things to Pinot that stainless maturation. we can start doing it again,” Lindsay tells steel just can’t.” me, with the excitement noticeable in his All of these winemakers have been those traits. The understanding is that voice. These recent plantings have been enjoying the characters that large oak Yarra Pinot doesn’t have dark colours, made up of Abel, 667 and Pommard. ferments provide. On that same theme, but has wonderful elegance and perfume. The reason for this excitement? The key Kelly has been using large rectangular RANGE LIFE PINOT NERO 2018 MR. HUGH BLUE RANGE ESTATE They don’t naturally have a great deal to great Pinot is unforced complexity and cuves, or vats, that mimic the type used in MORNINGTON PENINSULA, RRP $28 VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018 of tannin, but what tannins are present all these clones bring different characters Beaujolais. Barney has been getting great Range Life specialise in Italian varieties, MORNINGTON PENINSULA, RRP $45 have a more silken feel. Vintage in the into the final blend. results with concrete fermenters and which is why they've chosen the Italian Mr Hugh's wines are made only in Yarra is relatively steady in comparison This desire for complexity drives all Steve is currently designing a new winery name for Pinot Noir for this wine. A small quantities from his favourite to Mornington owing to its continental the winemakers I spoke to. They all aim for Giant Steps that will include concrete pale ruby coloured stunner, it has a vineyards. This Pinot comes from one climate. Tom talks about the Yarra and to keep as many of their single vineyards, vats for red fermentation. These larger, complex and intense mix of red and of his standouts in the Mornington his winemaking being more consistent. individual blocks and even specific thicker vessels warm up more slowly, but blue fruit aromas, crushed red petals, Peninsula. It's a bright, medium Pinot “A bit of whole bunch works every year, clones separate during vinification then dissipate heat more slowly as well, STONIER PINOT NOIR 2019 and funky struck match lift. Silky and red with aromas of ripe strawberry and colours and balance appear pretty early.” and maturation. This provides an allowing for a more gentle extraction of MORNINGTON PENINSULA, RRP $30 seductive with a deliciously complex background notes of clove, pine needle Consistency of weather allows better array of flavours and textures to build colour, flavour and tannins. Brian Stonier was one of the pioneer array of red cherry, tea smoke, bramble, and tilled earth. Delivers fine red berry fruit set and thus a slightly less challenging the ideal blend for bottling. These vignerons of the Mornington Peninsula, crushed herbs and wet stone minerality. fruit and fine tannins with a plush viticultural season. Kelly Healey of multiple components also give them the WHAT'S OLD IS NEW where he planted Chardonnay in 1978 Varietal yet deluxe with terrific texture mouthfeel, roundness and length with Rochford, only two vintages in at this opportunity to drill down on what each With a variety as noble and respected as followed by Pinot Noir in 1982. Since and complexity and an intriguing finish. youthful energetic charm. winery, but with many years of Yarra block provides and how it has manifested Pinot Noir, tradition is always a factor for then, Stonier Pinot Noirs have attracted experience, sees his role as a babysitter, based on vintage conditions, viticultural discussion.