GLOBAL EA HUT Tea & Tao Magazine 國際茶亭 September 2019 武 夷 神 山仙 之 岩地 茶 Wuyi Mt. Cliff Tea Extended Edition GLOBAL EA HUT ContentsIssue 92 / September 2019 Tea & Tao Magazine Rou肉桂 Gui Wuyi Mountain is a must-see pilgrimage for all tea lovers. It is one of the most ideal places on Earth to grow tea. It is also one of the most gorgeous places Love is on Earth. Travel there with us, as we explore the ge- ography, history, folklore and tea processing of this changing the world powerful place together in greater depth than be- fore, drinking a great Cliff Tea along the way. bowl by bowl Features特稿文章 19 Wuyi Cliff Tea: 53 Legends of Cliff Tea: Geography & Terroir Shui Jin Gui (水金龜) By Wu De (無的) 55 Wuyi Cliff Tea: 29 The Majesty of Wuyi Mt. Traditional Hand-Processing By Huang Xian Geng (黃賢庚) By Huang Xian Geng (黃賢庚) 35 Legends of Cliff Tea: 77 Legends of Cliff Tea: 大紅袍 Da Hong Pao ( ) Bai Ji Guan (白雞冠) 武 37 The Garden Grades of 79 Rock Bones & 肉夷 Cliff Tea Floral Fragrance 正 By Wu De (無的) By Tsai Yizhe (蔡奕哲) 岩 43 Legends of Cliff Tea: 83 Special Offer: Tie Luo Han (鐵羅漢) Four Great Names 45 The Poetic Names of 桂 85 The Inscriptions of Cliff Tea Wuyi Mountain By Wu De (無的) By Huang Xian Geng (黃賢庚) 傳統文章 Traditions 特別加長版 03 Tea of the Month “Rou Gui,” Traditional Cliff Tea, Wuyi Mountain, China 91 Voices from the Hut “Life-Changing in Wuyi,” © 2019 by Global Tea Hut By Kristina Clark All rights reserved. 95 A Call to Action recycled & recyclable No part of this publication may be Help us to build the best Tea Center the world reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by has ever known. Help us spread the word! any means: electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other- 97 TeaWayfarer wise, without prior written permis- Liva Olina, Latvia Soy ink sion from the copyright owner. n September,From the weather begins to cool downthe and Back in the day, iteditor was my first tea love: the tea that inspired we can sometimes drink tea outdoors. Most of our me to forget whatever busywork I was up to and sit down 2019 fundraiser teas have arrived, and we can start for another kettle. It called me to explore and learn more, digging into this year’s amazing offerings. We have to research, read and travel. The first time I went to Wuyi, Isome incredible tea this year, including one of the best teas I was blown away… we have ever offered in any Light Meets Life fundraiser. We There are no words in all the tongues of men or gods also start drinking more traditionally processed oolongs, to describe the glory of Wuyi Mountain. It is more than aged oolongs and Cliff Tea around this time, which is per- just a beauty of the eyes; it touches the heart. Entering the fect for this month’s Extended Edition. It is, of course, way park changes the way you breathe, walk and feel. It is a better when we all drink tea together. pilgrimage for tea lovers, and for more than twenty years I There are a tremendous number of stunning teas on our have made it a priority to travel there at least once a year (I site for the fundraiser this year! Also, as many of you no have only missed one year, as I was busy serving tea to you). doubt know, I have recently published a book called Fallen I have long hoped that we could collect all our writings Leaves. A signed hardbound version can be purchased on on Wuyi, translate some parts of amazing books and invite the “teaware” section of our website and a paperback from some authors who also love Wuyi, like Master Tsai Yizhe Amazon. All proceeds will help us build your Center, Light (蔡奕哲), and gather it all in an Extended Edition. This Meets Life. is one of the most comprehensive publications on Wuyi As we continue to move forward towards a new Center Mountain and Cliff Tea in the English language. It is also for all of you, I wanted to take the opportunity to thank one of the issues of Global Tea Hut that I am the proudest all of you for so much love, tolerance and support all these of in all the many issues we have made so far. I hope the years. You who have come to the events we have hosted reading of it inspires you as much as the creation of it did around the world, I bow to you. Thank you so much for all for us. Aside from a trip to Wuyi, this issue will be the next the kindness, support, smiles and love. It has touched me best thing to help you cultivate a real understanding of this so deeply how far some of you traveled to come have tea magnificent place and tea. But I do hope that you all get with me when I was abroad. And those of you who have the chance to visit one day. It is a must-see for a tea lover. sacrificed to come here to Taiwan and take ten-day courses, (Maybe a Global Tea Hut Annual Trip?) May you all stand filling this Center, Tea Sage Hut, with purpose and inspi- beneath these magnificent cliffs, cup of amazing Cliff Tea in ration, reason and life. I also would like to honor all of you one hand, the other on your heart, transcended and uplift- who have subscribed to this magazine and contributed your ed, inspired to walk further down this Dao of Cha… resources to continue this project. I also know there are all kinds of unseen help and support, like spreading the word about Global Tea Hut or Light Meets Life, as well as those who have carried teaware about town, offered space for cer- emonies or done any number of other awesome good deeds to help keep the tea flowing. Finally, I would like to own Wu De any and all mistakes made in these magazines, at our events or at our Center and bow deeply once more for your toler- ance and patience throughout this tea life we have shared together. I love you all more than words can tell. And no matter what, even if I end up back in a small hut with only a single cracked bowl and some rice, I would share it with you. I pray we have the chance to share many more bowls of tea. And if we don’t, I wish you a thousand, thousand bowls, each one the Morning Dew! –Further Reading– These Extended Editions are the highlight of my year as an author and editor, as they offer a chance to break our backs in service of greater depth. It is always a deep and last- This month, we recommend re-reading the June ing source of joy, pride and inspiration to explore the topics 2015 issue, which was all about one of our Annu- we all know and love in a much more thorough way. And al Global Tea Hut trips, which we took to Wuyi. there is no topic that I am as inspired by as Wuyi Cliff Tea. All of our past issues are on our website for free. For me, Cliff Tea was my first passion. In college, I took Share them with your friends as well when they the train quite some distance to get tins of Wuyi Cliff Tea. come over for tea! 2 of the ver the course of this month, we have the great around the courtyard for their outdoor withering, we see pleasure to drink one of the most valuable and bug bites all through many of the leaves. The old Master, high-quality teas we have ever shared in this mag- Huang Xian Yi (黃賢義), says that “this is a good year, azine. Wuyi tea has recently grown in fame, resulting in you see.” The bites ensure that the ecology was healthy, full very exorbitant prices. Fine Cliff Tea is amongst the best, and rich, which means the tea will be great. Master Huang most subtle and purest teas on Earth. And as the demand knows that Nature makes fine tea, and before humans get for fine tea has grown exponentially, so has the renown of involved and start using skill to dry the leaf, one needs Wuyi, and fine, well-made teas like our Tea of the Month. high-quality raw material. This is why master chefs do their It is therefore only through the generosity of our dear own shopping. They know that high-quality ingredients are friends, the Huangs, whom we will discuss in more detail in half the dish. Having a healthy, balanced ecology is just the the Deeper Session article coming up, that we could share start of fine tea. It also takes the perfect weather. Heaven this tea with all of you. Through a love of tea and a spirit and Earth must therefore come together to make fine tea. of sharing, they have generously donated this month’s tea The bug bites also mean oxidation. When a bug bites a in its entirety to all of you. Raise a bowl to their kindness! leaf, the rim around the hole turns red, as the leaf has start- Rou Gui (肉桂) is one of the most famous varietals of ed to oxidize in that location.