Running Head: BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES: A STUDY ON THE BRANDING STRATEGIES ADOPTED BY SMALL-BUSINESS APPAREL COMPANIES THAT PRACTICE SUSTAINABILITY IN CANADA Elsa Mary Thomas, 4 Year Diploma in FDIT, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, 2005 The Major Research Project is submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Art in the Program of Fashion Ryerson University Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2014 ©Elsa Mary Thomas 2014 Running Head: BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES AUTHOR'S DECLARATION FOR ELECTRONIC SUBMISSION OF A MAJOR RESEARCH PROJECT I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this MRP. This is a true copy of the MRP, including any required final revisions. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this MRP to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this MRP by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my MRP may be made electronically available to the public. i BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES Abstract Branding in Sustainable Apparel Companies: A Study on the Branding Strategies Adopted by Small-business Apparel Companies that Practice Sustainability in Canada Elsa Mary Thomas, Master of Art in Fashion, Ryerson University, 2014 Keywords: Eco-fashion, Sustainability, Cradle-to-Cradle, Identity Branding The impact of environmental and social issues on today‟s global fashion industry has made some small apparel companies and big retailers realize their responsibility in setting it right. This qualitative research investigated the branding practices of small-business sustainable apparel companies in Canada. The theoretical framework guiding this research coalesced McDonough and Braungart‟s concept of cradle-to-cradle (sustainability) and identity-branding approaches, using a case-study methodology. A combination of literature review, web-based data and semi-structured interviews of nine participants was intended to shed light on the research questions. Key findings included more focus in branding a label with the product's aesthetics and other features compared to branding the product as “sustainable,” even when the companies are not compromising their sustainability practices. In addition, there is a realization among small-business entrepreneurs who practice sustainability in rebranding to focus more on customer based branding (keeping the customer in the center of the brand). ii BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES Acknowledgements Foremost, I would like to thank God for His abundant blessings upon my life and for providing me an opportunity to further my studies in the Masters program. I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my supervisor Dr. Lu Ann Lafrenz, for her continuous patience and support throughout my Masters Program and the research. Her academic advice, insight and guidance motivated me consistently, even while she was on a sabbatical. I believe that I had the best advisor and mentor for this study. In addition, I would like to thank Prof. Osmud Rahman, for his invaluable insight into the paper specifically for his expertise on the topic of Branding. In academia, I would like to thank Prof. Sandra Tullio-Pow, for her correspondence, guidance and mentorship throughout the program. I would like to add my sincere appreciation to the professional associates who have supported and assisted me through this paper. This research could not be possible without the excellent co-operation and whole-hearted participation from the entrepreneurs who were interviewed in this research. I owe my gratitude to my husband for his patience, endless support and encouragement since the day we met. I would like to thank my dad and my aunt, Sophie Thomas for their moral support and for taking time to read through all my edits. Finally, I would like to thank my family and friends for their prayers and continued support in all my endeavors. This paper would not have been possible without all of your support. Thank you! iii BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES Table of Contents Author‟s Declaration……………………………………………………………………………. i Abstract…………………………………………………………………………………………. ii Acknowledgements……………………………………………………………………………... iii Table of Contents……………………………………………………………………………….. iv Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………. 1 Sustainability……………………………………………………………………………. 3 Branding………………………………………………………………………………… 4 Sustainable practices in sustainable apparel companies………………………………... 4 Problem of branding and marketing sustainable apparel……………………………....... 5 North American sustainable apparel business…………………………………………… 5 Literature Review………………………………………………………………………………. 8 Theoretical framework…………………………………………………………………… 8 Sustainable fashion lexicon………………………………………………………………. 8 Sustainability and sustainable practices…..…………………………………………….. 10 Eco-efficiency…………………………………………………………………... 12 Reduce…………………………………………………………………... 12 Reuse……………………………………………………………………. 12 Regulate………………………………………………………………… 13 Sustainability certifications and initiatives……………………... 13 Local third-party organizations…………………………………. 14 Recycle………………………………………………………………….. 16 Eco-effectiveness……………………………………………………………….. 16 iv BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES Upcycle…………………………………………………………………. 16 Design…………………………………………………………………... 17 Zero wastage……………………………………………………………. 17 Respecting diversity…………………………………………………….. 18 Local sourcing…………………………………………………... 18 Research and development…………………………………………...… 19 Eco-efficiency to eco-effectiveness…………………………………………….. 19 Traceability…………………………………………………………………...… 20 Branding………………………………………………………………………………… 22 Operational definitions in branding…………………………………………….. 24 Identity brand approach……………………………………………………….... 26 Current branding practices in sustainable apparel companies………………….. 28 Challenges in branding sustainable apparel…………………………………….. 30 Misalignment in identity approach and consumer behavior……………………. 31 Canadian apparel market………………………………………………………………... 32 Research Questions…...……………………………………………………………………….. 37 Research Methodology……...………………………………………………………………… 38 Case study approach……………………………………………………………………. 38 Interview sample………………………………………………………………... 39 The interview…………………………………………………………...………. 40 Data analysis……………………………………………………………………………. 41 Findings and Discussion………………………………………………………………………. 43 Sustainability and sustainability practices……………………………………………… 43 v BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES Design…………………………………………………………………………... 45 Sourcing and production………………………………………………………... 46 Post-consumption solutions…………………………………………………….. 48 Social and ethical practices……...……………………………………………… 48 Sustainability: Moving towards a lifestyle brand………………………………………. 49 Sustainability‟s emotional value proposition…………………………………… 49 Long term company-stakeholder relationships…………………………………. 50 Problems of certifications………………………………………………………. 51 Need for rebranding…………………………………………………………………….. 55 Niche to mass market…………………………………………………………… 55 Branding: Design vs. sustainability…………………………………………….. 55 Competition with comparables…………………………………………………. 56 Branding is continuous…………………………………………………………. 57 Problem in continuous research and development……………………………... 58 Collaboration and co-existing: “Surviving of the fitting-est” ………………….. 58 Understanding the consumers…………………………………………………………... 59 Consumers‟ ambiguity in understanding sustainability………………………… 59 Educating the consumers……………………………………………………….. 60 Tools of branding………………………………………………………………. 60 Consumers prefer „Made in Canada‟ products………………………………… 63 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………………….. 64 Limitations…………………………………………………………………………………….. 65 Need for Future Research/ Recommendations……………………………………………… 66 vi BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES Appendix……………………………………………………………………………………….. 69 Bibliography…………………………………………………………………………………… 80 vii BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES List of Tables Table 1: Importance of Branding……………………………………………………………. 24 Table 2: Sustainability Practices…………………………………………………………….. 44 Table 3: Branding Tools……………………………………………………………………... 53 Table 4: Challenges in Branding…………………………………………………………….. 54 Table 5: Design vs. Sustainability…………………………………………………………… 54 viii BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES List of Figures Figure 1: Theoretical Framework……………………………………………………………... 7 Figure 2: Triple Bottom Line…………………………………………………………………. 11 Figure 3: Cradle-to-cradle Design Matrix and Fractal Tool…………………………………... 11 Figure 4: Identity Branding Approach……………………………………………………….... 26 Figure 5: Employment Size Ratio……………………………………………………………... 36 Figure 6: Criteria for Participant Selection…………………………………………………….. 39 Figure 7: Identity Branding Approach to Consumer-Based Brand Equity…………………….. 68 ix BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES List of Appendices Appendix A: Sustainability certifications and initiatives…………………………………. 69 Appendix B: Sample of semi-structured interview questions…………………………….. 71 Appendix C: Ryerson research and ethics board letter of approval………………………. 72 Appendix D: Sample contact letter to invite participants…………………………………. 73 Appendix E: Consent to participate in research…………………………………………… 76 x Running Head: BRANDING IN SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COMPANIES Introduction In recent years, the concept of sustainability has found its way into each of the three basic necessities of