CMYK CMYK CMYK EXECUTIVE BODY 2018-20 C ONTENTS Patron Members Mr. K.C. Tapadar Dr. Prabir Banerjee Dr. Sailen Chaudhuri 6 Denim an Eyeful Industry- Explore The Potential CHANDAN SAHA President Dr. Prabir Jana 14 Denim Manufacturing: Spinning To Finishing DR AMAL CHOWDHURY Vice President Dr. Arindam Basu 22 Finishing Department: Mr. Kingshuk Pandit A Long Lost Treasure of Garments Manufacturers ADITYA MAHAPATRA General Secretary Mr. Sanjib Sinha 26 Jeans Finishing And Laser Technology Joint Secretary SOUMYADEEP SAHA Mr. Tatai Biswas 30 Sewing Automat Solution For Jeans Manufacturing Joint Secretary PRIYABRATA MONDAL (Media & Website) Mr. Prasanta Sarkar 36 Datatex Software Solutions RAHUL MAHAJAN Treasurer Mr. Kingshuk Pandit 38 Natural Dyes Student Coordinator YAWER ALI SHAH Mr. Bapan Adak 42 Need of Digital Printing Members VINOD KRISHNAMOORTHY Dr. Amalesh Mukhopadhyay Ms. Aparajita Pal 43 New Era Of Industrial Sewing Machines Mr. Bapan Adak DAVID PETER Mr. Chandan Saha Mr. K. N. Chatterjee 44 Sustainable Thinking Mr. Nihar Kanti Das SAI NAVNEETHAN Mr. Paresh Das Mr. Pranab Maity Mr. Priyabrata Mondal 48 Big Brands are Leaving Money on the Cutting Table Dr. Rabi Sankar Chattopadhyay BY RAM SAREEN Mr. Saikat Ghosh Md. Sariful Mondal 54 Seminar Report 2018: The Art Of Shirt Making Mr. Sheikh Minhazuddin Mr. Sibaji Dasgupta 62 List of Popular Denim Manufacturers in India Mr. Sumantra Pal Website www.tantutextile.com E-mail [email protected] 3 CMYK ADVERTISEMENT LIST Advertisement Page No 1 SIP India 2, 41 2 Datatex India 9, 19 3 AMA Herbal Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. 11, 29 4 Ramsons 13, 27 5 Fortuna Colours & Prints LLP 17, 21 6 GTN Industries 34, 35 7 Groz-Beckert 39 8 Macpi 47, 51 9 Tukatech 52, 53 10 Rajasthan International 55 11 Aditya Birla 57, 65 12 Apparel Resources 60 13 Kalpataru Impex 63 14 Pulcra Chemicals 66 15 Sakho Enterprises 67 16 Colours India Inc. 68 4 CMYK Editorial The release of TANTU Annual Journal 2019 on seventh edition of TANTU seminar gives us immense pleasure for being able to present a star-studded panel discussions as well as curated writings from astute academicians and industry alike. Like the previous couple of years’ product focused seminars, this time we are again going to address different issues related to a common, yet classic, never out of fashion product- guess what? Yes, you your guess is right if “It is in Your Jeans”. On contemporary ground, as sustainability and circularity continues to be the flavour of discussion in textile and apparel fraternity, denim and jeans are coming back stronger due to its severity of water and energy consumption. Jeans is always in the news for good or bad- an interesting garment which is classic yet fashionable; blue yet can take any colour. Globally, consumers own an average of 5.4 pairs of blue jeans. It would be natural to expect that the United States would boast the highest per capita ownership with around 8, given its seasonal temperatures and the fact that it is the birthplace of blue jeans. While surprisingly India is far behind with per capita ownership of 0.3 having been one of the leading exporters and boasting a colossal population of young people which could be exploited as immensely potential market. For this product’s huge impact on both global apparel business and environment, numerous seminars and conferences are being organised to discuss the issue of energy consumption, water usage, CO2 footprint and effluent discharge per pair of Jeans making. So, we also have decided to explore the nexus among technicality, art of manufacturing of jeans, its impact on environment and business aspects during our 7th seminar through three panel discussions where industry experts will share their knowledge and experience on “Denim Fabric Development: Art or Science”, “Jeans Finishing: Environmental Reboot” and “Start-up in Blue Space”. In addition to that, this year TANTU annual journal 2019 would include five write ups from TANTU alumni members on varied topics but all followed the seminar theme Denim and Jeans. The denim manufacturing spinning to finishing, sewing machine technology for jeans making, laser finishing of denim and business potential in the denim industry. The journal has also covered technical write-up from industry experts on various topics like – cutting room automation, latest jeans finishing machinery, software solutions for the textile and fashion industry. We could not be happier to announce that, this is the second year in row, we are sponsoring two students each from both Berhampore and Serampore College in West Bengal to participate TANTU seminar under TANTU Young Engineer Scholarship Program. The objective of this scholarship program is to create an eco-system for the students to have a fair exposure on industry and capacity building. The initiative will also facilitate the students to interact with the professionals of diverse areas and acquire knowledge on the latest developments, innovations and employment opportunities during the event. On behalf of the entire team of TANTU, we would like to extend my heartfelt thanks to all those who financially and otherwise supported in our efforts to bring together like minded professionals, nurture young minds and keeping this industry alive and relevant. Last but not the least the inspiration and support of our spouses and children notwithstanding the agony and tolerance for all the late comings and meetings. PRASANTA SARKAR, Editor ADITYA MAHAPATRA, Assistant Editor www.tantutextile.com 5 CMYK DENIM AN EYEFUL INDUSTRY- EXPLORE THE POTENTIAL CHANDAN SAHA GENESIS OF DENIM colorant to manufacture denim. The synthetic indigo was invented Genesis of denim is quite diverse. in the nineteenth century and Denim, the unique featured it was found cheaper & better apparel is popular among diverse quality product to use to improve segments of users across the fastness properties & aesthetics globe since innovation of the and had replaced the natural product. It had been transformed indigo. to the present phase through Chandan Saha various innovations to make The blue Jeans made of it user friendly. The ‘DENIM’ Denim cloth first got visible in in India since early ‘70s. A few nomenclature is generic in nature the present status in mid of manufacturers in Mumbai (then as it encompasses both ‘Cloth’ nineteenth century. Levi Strauss, Bombay) started manufacturing (fabric) and ‘Clothing’ (apparel). an immigrant enterprising mind the items by adopting the Manufacturing of Denim was first thought of innovating a technology partially and using originated as sturdy apparel in sturdy pant for the miners Indigo & other dye and launched a small way in France to keep working in California. He designed in the domestic market as ‘Denim’ the Sailors, Miners and Cowboys the product and branded it in the and Jeans. Denim was usually in a comfort zone after wearing style & name of ‘Levis’ in 1850 available in blue but Jeans were of such garments. Denim has an and launched in the market. The various colors like Meroon, Yellow unusual history of few hundred design was remained unchanged Black and Blue etc. The product years. Originally it was a strong & with a minor modification by became very popular late70’s attaching a few accessories. sturdy material made from wool. as it was affordable to middle Later on an Italian tailor, Jacob By the year 1700, it was made income group consumers and Davis invented the Riveted pant of wool & cotton. It was used to Indigo Denim was popular among on the request of miners. Davis make sails. Later some Genoverse high end consumers as it was sailors eventually felt to make an subsequently, granted Strauss to expensive. In the last two decades, innovation and thought it fit for adopt the idea of Rivet pant and a big no. of units have been making great pants or ‘Genes’. it was patented in May, 1873. established in India and made a Denim was treated with blue dye A few other modifications were presence as the second largest obtained from Indigo plant. Indigo also made in 1920. The product denim manufacturers and also a was used as dye since 2500B.C. in was still not on the line of user leading exporter of denim clothes diverse countries like Asia, Egypt, friendly, so there was a need to in the world. Greece, Rome, Britain and Peru make it user friendly. In 1937, etc. mostly imported from India Rivets on the back pockets were INDUSTRY AT A GLANCE as the plants were only available pushed inside as it was damaging ACROSS THE GLOBE VIS in India. The nomenclature was the items once got in touch. The A VIS IN INDIA originated from the word ‘Serge complains were flowing from De Nim’, it indicates that ‘NIM’ school board and cow boys for Denim industry was initiated in means Blue lagoon, De comes damaging chairs and saddle Europe and became popular in from French language. Indigo, a respectively. It is reported that the USA. It had been used since natural dye, originated from India the innovative product became the middle of the nineteenth was matching with blue lagoon, very popular since 1950 across century but gained popularity hence; Indigo was started using as the globe and it got a visibility since 1873. At present China is 6 CMYK the largest producer of Denim is the second largest producer been registering an exponential fabric followed by India. Other having a share of 10% and growth of 15% over the last Asian countries also made their Pakistan & Bangladesh are decade. The industry took a root presence in manufacturing having a share only 5%, & 2% in India since ’86 and since then denim in the world market. respectively. Worldwide Denim growing immensely to meet both Bangladesh also became a manufacturing units have domestic & overseas market.