168 CONCEPTUALISTS REI KAWAKUBO 169 ➜ Surrealism and pop culture This piece from the Comme des Garçons Fall 2007 collection includes obvious references to the work of Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons has dramatically influenced the Western perspective on Elsa Schiaparelli in the form of hands clasping the model’s body adornment and the meaning of clothes, as well as the Japanese conception of what it means chest. In 1937, Schiaparelli collaborated with surrealist artist Jean Cocteau to create a jacket with a porcelain to be a woman in a male-dominated society. Kawakubo has helped to foster intellectualism in hand acting as a closure. Kawakubo has also used pop culture in the form of cartoonish ears, just as fashion, and her influence can be seen in a wide variety of designers’ collections. Schiaparelli referenced 1930s culture. ➜ INFLUENCED BY ❖ Japanese philosophy and culture ● Madeleine Vionnet ● Christian Dior ● Elsa Schiaparelli Fundamental to Kawakubo’s work The French designer To understand the While Kawakubo might not directly align herself with the emphasis is the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi set an amazing example Western aesthetic, on a fitted silhouette and the Western aesthetic of Schiaparelli’s (acceptance of transience and of experimentation, Kawakubo has often work, she often plays with surrealistic elements and disjointed KEY imperfection, and finding beauty in independence from co-opted iconic fashion ideas, much in the way that Schiaparelli did in the 1930s. ● fashion designer them); the traditional Japanese way trends, and the pieces, most notably Kawakubo has experimented with scale, color, symbolism, and ◆ fashion house/brand of dress and the wearability of the development of a Dior’s 1947 New Look popular culture to make her audience reevaluate established ideas. ■ artistic influence kimono (right); and the emphasis on centralized philosophy, all that defined the fitted Schiaparelli aimed to shock or surprise as a function of self- ❖ cultural influence quiet contemplation of abstract ideas. of which Kawakubo has female figure so expression, which is Kawakubo’s primary aim as well as flouting certainly learned from. magnificently. the status quo. Schiaparelli also represents an ideal model of female self-determination to the autonomous Kawakubo. REI KAWAKUBO Japanese (1942 Tokyo) Born October 11th in Tokyo. Graduates from Keio University Despite not having any training in fashion Opens her first Designs her Shows collections Opens first Junya Watanabe, Kawakubo’s She is the daughter of a senior after studying philosophy, literature, design, Kawakubo starts creating women’s boutique in Tokyo. first menswear with fellow store in Paris most well-known protégé, begins faculty member in the small and fine art. Works for a brief time clothing under the name Comme des collection. Japanese designer and begins to designing the Comme Des private Keio University. as a stylist. Garçons, which means “Like Boys.” Yohji Yamamoto. manufacture Garçons Tricot knitwear line. in Paris. CHRONOLOGY 1942 1964 1969 1975 1978 1981 1982 1987 INSPIRED ● Hussein Chalayan ● Marc Jacobs ● Martin Margiela ● Ann Demeulemeester ● Alexander McQueen ➜ Kawakubo serves as a Kawakubo has been a major influence on the New York Margiela was extremely Kawakubo has been associated The British designer has model for conceptual designer, as can be seen in Jacobs’ collections for Fall 2006 influenced by Japanese with the color black and the said many times that he thought, a philosophical and Spring 2008 (left). This dress reflects Kawakubo’s designers in his formative adoption of many gender- greatly admires the work of approach to design, and influence, from the hairstyle to the incongruous placement years, identifying with neutral looks. Demeulemeester Kawakubo. The two designers a revisiting of ideas rather of fabric on the figure. The dress is feminine and doll-like, the deconstructionist has clearly been influenced create an aura of strength than an attachment overwhelming the model and not fitting in the traditionally philosophy that by the Japanese designer’s and reserve for their female to trends, all of which accepted manner for Western dress. The sash references Kawakubo helped aesthetic, creating her own customers, and approach Chalayan is known both Western decorative details and the Japanese obi. to introduce. look based on many of the fashion with a larger political for in his own right. same principles. statement in mind. Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons fashion shows are desire to explore larger issues. However, despite her “I don’t have a definition often the subject of a great deal of head scratching by many perceived connection to artistic, conceptual fashion, of beauty. I don’t have an buyers and journalists, who may not understand the clothing Kawakubo does not want her work to be considered art for or the message that is being communicated. Kawakubo shuns art’s sake, or as forsaking function. She states: “Fashion is not established view of what the spotlight, rarely coming out to take a bow at the end of art. You sell art to one person. Fashion comes in a series beauty is, as my idea of her shows. Journalists who hope to learn the secrets of her and is more of a social phenomenon. It is also something beauty keeps changing.” thought process or meaning are often answered cryptically, more personal and individual, because you express your resulting in more confusion. Yet every season they return, personality. It is an active participation; art is passive.” because they all seem to recognize that, although they may Kawakubo’s work has been featured in countless museum Rei Kawakubo not understand Kawakubo’s collection at first glance, they collections, exhibitions, and publications, due to the incredible are witnessing something that will influence other designers artistic perspective she brings to each of her collections. and have a considerable impact on future fashion. Her statement that fashion is not art might actually be more of a defensive reaction than a belief, since conceptual FASHION IS NOT ART designers are continually being forced to prove that their It may seem that Kawakubo approaches fashion as if it were clothing is wearable and approachable, even though it stems art—full of experimentation, open-ended questions, and a from an intellectual approach. WIFD 2 blad spreads_.indd 168 2/1/10 7:36:16 PM WIFD 2 blad spreads_.indd 169 2/1/10 7:36:23 PM Job No: PJ0210-1 / 4237 Job No: PJ0210-1 / 4237 Q Q 1st Proof Title: Wifd_The World Most In uential Fashion Designer : 27505 1st Proof Title: Wifd_The World Most In uential Fashion Designer : 27505 170 CONCEPTUALISTS ➜ Security and strength This piece from the Comme des Garçons Fall 2009 collection features ➜ Japanese aesthetic the front of a military jacket wrapped over a blanket, symbolic of comfort and warmth. The sheer head covering has sequinned lips placed Kawakubo is inspired by Japanese culture and off-center; the shoes feature a carefully painted outline of bare toes. symbolism. In this piece from her Spring 2007 Kawakubo seems to be examining the purpose or use of clothing as collection, she uses geisha-inspired makeup on it represents security and comfort. The collection questions the use the model’s face, and the large red sun from of fashion to “protect” and create a sense of identity or strength. the Japanese flag on the clothing. ➜ INFLUENCED BY ● Yohji Yamamoto ● Issey Miyake ● Vivienne Westwood ■ Architecture Yamamoto was one Miyake was the first Japanese The two female designers Kawakubo is married to an architect, and of Kawakubo’s greatest designer to be introduced to have influenced each works very closely with architect Takao champions early in her the West who also held onto other throughout their Kawasaki in the development of all her KEY career. He encouraged the aesthetics of the East. Miyake careers. Westwood’s stores (left: Comme des Garçons store ● fashion designer her to debut with him has set an example of a designer/ early work with the in Aoyama, Tokyo). The designer’s clothing ◆ fashion house/brand in Paris, and to create artist collaborative, with a steadfast Punk movement has an architectural feel, as she explores the ■ artistic influence her own path. belief in his own personal provided fertile ground relationship of the body with the surrounding ❖ cultural influence philosophy, which has undoubtedly for the introduction shell that covers it. influenced Kawakubo. of Kawakubo’s work to the West. REI KAWAKUBO CONTINUED Launches Comme Starts publishing a bi-annual Becomes a guest Shows her highly controversial Spring collection, now Tao Kurihara takes over from Becomes a guest designer for fashion des Garçons SHIRT, magazine, Six (standing for “Sixth editor of the visual commonly referred to as the Lumps and Bumps collection, Junya Watanabe as designer retailer H&M, designing clothing for a lower priced Sense”), that features inspiring arts magazine in the Musée National des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie of the Comme des Garçons men, women, and children as well diffusion line. images but has very little text. Visionaire. to get away from the Paris fashion media circus. Tricot knitwear line. as a unisex perfume. CHRONOLOGY 1988 1990 1996 1997 2005 2008 INSPIRED ● Junya Watanabe ◆ Armand Basi One ◆ Rodarte ➜ Watanabe said of Kawakubo: “Rei has taught me everything about Marcus Lupfer’s Fall 2009 Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy have how to create.” Kawakubo gave Watanabe funds to start his own collection for the small label learned from Kawakubo to experiment collection, but their business relationship does not include advice or paid homage to the 1980s with fabrics, shapes, and notions of idealized input by the more renowned designer. In fact, Kawakubo does not work of the Japanese designer, beauty. They have become known for their know what Watanabe is doing from season to season. From her, experimenting with large rich combinations of fabrics, textures, and Watanabe has learned to question all established ideas and, most shapes, dark colors, and colors wrapped around the body in importantly, to experiment, letting the results vary and breathe a some deconstructionist unconventional ways.