CROATIA & THE BALKANS SERBIA DESTINATIONS Balkan Dancing, druids and the beauty Danube? Serbia is full of surprises, finds Ronan O’Shea River Sava, Belgrade t’s easy to see why many call the national anthem before cafe culture, Europe’s biggest Habsburg and Ottoman empires IBelgrade the city that never breaking into a joyous dance music festival, and a history that – hence its blend of architecture sleeps. The night I arrive, the city to the backdrop of Serbian hip stretches back much further than today – until the foundation of is alive, the streets packed with hop, an unusual window into the just the past quarter century, the country that would later be people young and old waving country’s cultural life. playing a central role in centuries known as Yugoslavia. Serbian flags, celebrating as For the uninitiated, Serbia’s of European politics. The turn towards communism the men’s national basketball history too often begins and Medieval Serbia controlled came after the Second World team stands on the balcony of ends with memories of its 1990s much of southeastern Europe War, under charismatic leader the Old Palace, having just won conflict, but that should by no until it was conquered by Josip Broz Tito, until his death silver in the European Basketball means be its defining feature – the Ottomans in the 15th in 1980 gave rise to a period of Championship. this is a country with a thriving century. It went on to become instability that culminated in the The crowd solemnly sings foodie scene and cosmopolitan a battleground between the clashes of the 1990s. PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK PICTURE: 4 January 2018 travelweekly.co.uk 61 CROATIA & THE BALKANS SERBIA DESTINATIONS FAR LEFT: Though the capital still bears the Plus the growth of Danube cruises, Ruzica Church, remnants of its past – bombed-out visa-free travel for many countries Belgrade Fortress office blocks stand out – Belgrade as and the relative cost of flights and LEFT: a whole now seems more reminiscent accommodation, as well as the low Novi Sad of its lively neighbours Prague and cost of activities in the country itself. Budapest further north, and with From nightlife to culture and dining, double-digit growth in visitor numbers Belgrade proves highly affordable. and ever-more operators featuring the There’s the fascinating Museum of Balkans, it’s time to take another look. Yugoslavia, plus a buzzing food scene to explore, first at Balkan w BELGRADE cuisine specialists Manufaktura, then Walking around Belgrade with my at the kitsch but excellent Lorenzo guide, Srdjan, its blend of culture and & Kakalamba. The latter is a frankly nightlife is clear, from the ornate Old bonkers restaurant which basks in Palace and National Assembly to the its oddity, with a life-sized model of understated atmosphere of Cetinjska Jessica Rabbit in one corner and a Street, full of quirky bars. neon-lit statue of Lenin in the other – The pick of the bunch is Zaokret, surefire signs the city is as attractive with its retro-chic furniture and mood for the night owl as for the history buff. lighting. I sip a beer, exhausted after SAMPLE a long day’s travel, watching as locals w NOVI SAD laugh and chat over beer and wine. The Serbian capital is within PRODUCT For both visitors and locals, the city day-trip distance of Novi Sad, the seems to be going through a boom second-biggest city in the country. period. Marija Labovič, chief executive Though only an hour from Belgrade, Regent Holidays of Serbia Tourism, tells me: “We have the pace of life is much slower and offers a seven- noticed the constant double-digit laid-back. Walking around the pretty night Serbia fly- growth of international tourists to town centre, however, there is still a drive with stays Serbia in the past five years. The sense of liveliness, which may go some in Belgrade, Novi biggest markets are regional markets way towards explaining why it has Sad and Nis, from and neighboring countries, including been chosen as European Capital of Exit may be the city’s most famous less-developed tourist industry, it has symbol of Serbian national identity. £1,115 including Turkey, Russia, Germany, Italy, lately Culture for 2020. event, but Novi Sad has a year-round some memorable points of interest This city is not all solemn historical Air Serbia Israel and China, and significant growth Builders are hard at work when I Though Belgrade still calendar of festivals, including nonetheless. reflection, however. We’re led up flights, four-star from western European markets.” arrive, readying the city for its big bears the remnants of its celebrations of wine and street music These include Crveni Krst into the nearby mountains by a very accommodation, Improved infrastructure and better moment, but while the preparations which draw thousands from around concentration camp, a haunting atypical restaurant owner, Nejboša car hire, a half- marketing have helped, along with might put a pause on appreciating the past, as a whole it now the world. reminder of the massacre of Serbs, Stamenovića, who tells us he’s a druid. day sightseeing the shift from state-owned JAT city’s aesthetic, they fail to stymie the seems more reminiscent Jews and Romanis during the Second I’d expected to meet someone dressed tour in the Airways to Etihad-owned Air Serbia. overall experience. of Prague and Budapest w NIS World War; and Skull Tower, built by in robe and sandals, but the man capital and other The final stop in my trio of Serbian the Ottomans after the failed First before me is decked out in shirt, jeans entrance fees, and cities takes me to Niš, in the Serbian Uprising as a reminder to and hiking boots. route maps. country’s southwest. A far cry from the Serbs of the punishment for My disappointment is quickly regent-holidays. Novi Sad and Belgrade and with a rebellion, and now seen as a curtailed by his natural expertise as co.uk Often regarded as Serbia’s cultural we make our way up the mountain. centre, there is much to enjoy, from Collecting a variety of herbs and plants Travel the the food at Project 72 Wine & Deli, including nasturtium, wild basil and Unknown has specialising in traditional Serbian poison berry (thankfully not on the a nine-day cuisine with modern twists, to the menu) he tells us all about foraging itinerary, Devil’s large Novi Sad Synagogue and and how he goes about sourcing Town & The Svetozar Miletić and Trg Slobode ingredients for his tiny restaurant, Danube, which (Liberty) squares, showcasing the which he runs from home with his wife. features Belgrade, anic V I varied periods of Serbian history. Gambolling down the side of a steep Novi Sad and Nis, Overnight stays are up 12% hill, he picks out more fresh herbs, among other relja ; ; compared with last year, not including before we head back to town to enjoy sites, from £2,075 ic V day visitors from Belgrade, but the a meal made entirely from ingredients for a group tour ano V city’s most popular attraction is the sourced on the mountain. or £2,645 for a jo B Exit music festival each July. It takes It’s a world away from the panache private version, ; ; place at the beautiful Petrovaradin of Belgrade and the high-brow culture both including bosnic Fortress and attracts more than 3,000 of Novi Sad, an earthier, more relaxed flights and based D LEFT: : : S visitors from across western Europe kind of pleasure. Museum of on two sharing. Yugoslavia, each year – not counting the number LEFT: Sleepier, certainly. But dull? Not in travelthe PICTURE Belgrade who visit while on a river cruise. Nis Fortress the slightest. unknown.com 62 travelweekly.co.uk 4 January 2018 4 January 2018 travelweekly.co.uk 63.