uatemala, one of the Lying above 2,000 meters, the Guatemala extended and brutal civil war with many civilian Hummingbirds oldest independent Highlands has the densest concentration of Mayan casualties, especially among the Maya. Today and parakeets nations of Central villages, is peppered by numerous active volcanoes, Guatemala is slowly emerging as a democratic ] America, possesses a rich and is home to one of the world’s most spectacular nation, albeit one replete with the problems of Highlands. The history and diverse variety lakes, Lake Atitlán. Its dryer temperate climate limited resources, national bird, the of ecosystems. The Mayan contrasts with that of the steamy, hot rainforests of endemic poverty, quetzal, has been a ] the north and Caribbean coast. corruption, and a major player in the region since early Mayan times; in this region for more high illiteracy rate. its feathers are considered sacred. These days the than 1,000 years and the When Spanish explorers came to Central America best chance of seeing one is on a reserve such as the ancient ruins of Tikal in in the 16th century, looking for gold in the New Staple foods center Biotopo del Quetzal. northern Guatemala rival World, they found few riches in Guatemala. But around maize and its counterparts Palenque the Spaniards remained, imposing as best they beans, and fresh No doubt the colorful plumage of the quetzals, and Chichen Itza in Mexico could their values, culture, and religion. However, tortillas are served macaws, and parrots inspired the textiles and in terms of scope and scale. Other Guatemalan sites complete assimilation of the indigenous people with every meal. handicrafts of Guatemala. Marketplaces are such as Yaxhá, Quiriguá, Iximché, and the jungle- remained elusive. Even today, although many Maya A “tipico” breakfast might consist of eggs, refried ablaze with a full spectrum of colorful clothing. enveloped El Mirador offer the visitor a chance to practice Catholicism, it takes the form of a blend of beans, sweet rolls, fried plantains, and of course Every Sunday and Thursday, the town of ANIMALS AND ART 6 further explore the temples, plazas, ball courts, ancient Mayan rituals and Church dogma. By the rich Guatemalan coffee. Lunch is the big meal of Chichicastenango hosts the largest outdoor stellae, and statues from the Mayan past. 17th century, all of Central America was under the day and soups and stews are offered at local market in Central America, offering everything colonial rule, with Antigua as its capital. Some commodores, simple family-run eateries. Barbecued from pottery to produce for locals and visitors THE JUNGLE 30 Although the Mayan civilization collapsed \ meats, tropical fruits, tomatoes, chilis, and potatoes alike. Probably the only thing that could disrupt some 700 years ago, the Mayan people live on, preserved in Antigua—no small feat for a city that round out a fusion diet of Latin American, this market, which has been an ongoing event comprising nearly half the population of modern- suffered two devastating earthquakes in the 18th Western, and Mayan cuisine. for hundreds of THE HIGHLANDS 52 day Guatemala. Nowhere century. years, would be Copyright © 2011 by David Couzens is this more apparent Howler monkeys are some of the noisier members an eruption from All rights reserved than in the villages of After the earthquake of 1773, the capital was moved of the Guatemalan jungles, which are also home one of the nearby ANTIGUA 88 the Highlands, where to Guatemala City, where it still remains in its to colorful parrots and parakeets, the resplendent volcanoes. Even most villagers, especially “safer” location in the shadow of Volcán de Pacaya, scarlet macaw, and the elusive jaguar. Other then, no doubt the For information on travel presentations and books see the women, still sport an active volcano. The modern nation of Guatemala, notable cats include pumas, ocelots, margays, and siesta would be a http://members.aceweb.com/dcouzens/ colorful traditional independent of Spain and the short-lived Central the domestic-cat-sized jaguarundi. Egrets, herons, brief one. costume as they go about American Federation, arose in 1847. The latter part and both brown and white pelicans abound in Photo calendars are available at lulu.com their day-to-day lives. of the 20th century saw the nation embattled in an coastal, river, and mangrove areas. David Couzens, February 2011 Images of Guatemala Parrots Left: Parakeet Above: Scarlet macaw 7 Egrets Left: Puma, Aurora Zoo Right: Parrot feathers Images of Guatemala Images of Guatemala Left: Tradional textiles Left: Jaguar, Aurora Zoo This page: Feathered inspiration Above: Brown pelicans 15 17 Left: Woven fabric Left: More weaving Right: The loom Right: Window ornamentation Left: Painting on tomb, Nebaj Guatemala City architecture and monuments Right: Painting the painters at Lake Atitlán Images of Guatemala David Couzens Left: Columns of the Palacio Nacional, Guatemala City Modern art in Guatemala City Above: Guatemala City cathedral 27 28 Images of Guatemala Scenes from the Rio Dulce Left: Misty day in the jungle Above: Boat taxis used for a river corssing 31 Images of Guatemala ] More Rio Dulce scenes Above: Young canoeist 35 Flowering plants Overview of Tikal 41 Great Plaza at Tikal Roots of the Ceiba tree, Tikal 45 David Couzens Quiriguá, another Mayan city built in the jungle Central Acropolis, Tikal 47 48 David Couzens Images of Guatemala Waterfalls, Biotopo del Quetzal Left: Vendor at Chichicastenango market Above: Public bus, San Pedro La Laguna 50 53 David Couzens Images of Guatemala Left: Chichicastenango pottery This page: Youngest and older shoppers Produce at Chichicastenango’s indoor market 54 55 57 David Couzens Images of Guatemala Left: Chichicastenango roving vendor This page: Traditional and modern dress Lake Atitlán at dawn 58 59 61 David Couzens Left: View of Lake Atitlán from Panajachel Santa Cruz La Laguna girls Right: Hitching a ride in Santa Cruz La Laguna 62 David Couzens Images of Guatemala David Couzens Santa Cruz La Laguna Left: Building near school Above: Local girls Left: San Pedro La Laguna Right: Barefoot basteball player Right: Father and daughter in San Antonio Palopó Next page: San Juan La Laguna 66 67 68 Santa Catarina Palopó San Juan La Laguna Left: Flowers in a pool Right: Mother and daughter 71 David Couzens Santiago Atitlán Left: Lake Atitlán Left: Fabric at the market Right: Side street of market in Right: Weaver at work Santiago Atitlán 74 David Couzens Left: View from boat on Nebaj Lake Atitlán Left: Boys waiting for school Right: Sunday mass in Santiago Atitlán Right: Doorway showing typical color scheme 78 David Couzens Images of Guatemala David Couzens Images of Guatemala Nebaj Left: Typical village building Above: Morning dew on a spider web Friday market shoppers in Sololá, one the largest Mayan towns in Guatemala Right: Local woman 82 83 84 85 Images of Guatemala Left: Potatoes Left: Doorway Right: Coffee cherries Above: City view with Volcán de Aqua 89 Images of Guatemala David Couzens Left: Wedding carriage in front of Cathedral of San José Left: Parque Central Above: Parque Central at night Right: Las Capuchinas nun 91 92 Images of Guatemala Left: Palace of the Captains General Arch of Santa Catalina Above: The Ayuntamiento, Antigua’s city hall 95 97 Images of Guatemala Left: Detail of the Arch of Santa Catalina at night Antigua’s public laundry Above: The Cloister, a bed and breakfast under the Arch 99 101 Left: Mangoes at the market Left: Making blue corn tortillas Right: A discerning shopper Right: A fashionable shopper Images of Guatemala David Couzens Left: San Francisco church ruin Right La Recolección church ruin Quiet side streets 107 108 Left: Colegio de San Jerónimo Left: Bougainvillea-lined path Right: Columns of the church Right: Ladder outside a shop of La Merced Images of Guatemala Photographer, editor, writer, and musician DAVID COUZENS has traveled to more than twenty countries as well as to the majority of American states and Canadian provinces, usually overly encumbered with photo gear. This book evolved out of \ excursion south of the border. His previous books, Images of Rajasthan and Images of Ireland, along with their companion DVDs, were released in 2008 and 2009. He regulary presents programs of his photography and original music throughout the San Francisco Bay Area. Courtyard of the Colegio de San Jerónimo 115.