T H E C O R S E T E R L E T H C I N O I N . A B O O K O i? M O D E S A N D C O S T U M E S M R MO P RI DS T HE PR S NT T I M FRO E T E E O T O E E E . B W Y B L. WI T H F U LL-PA G E A ND O T H E R 5 4 ENG RAV I NG S . O wh a, W 111 s o e m fan oo h y f t , ’ n wh W 111 A d a, glo ve my h an And wh a W111 lace my m1ddle g imp ’ ’ ” W o d 1 a new ma e L ondo n b an P F a u ' Anmc o Lmh i o an f y . L O NDO N W R L K Y R A D C A N D T L E . , O , W \VAR\VI C K H O U S E PAT E RNO S T ER RO . , P R E F A C E . TH E subject which we have here treated is a sort o f figurative -field battle , where fierce contests have for ages been from time to time waged ; and, notwithstanding the determined assaults of the attacking hosts, the contention and its cause remain pretty much as they were at the W e commencement of the war . in the matter remain strictly neutral, ’ ” merely performing the part of the public s own correspondent, making it our duty to gather together such extracts from despatches, both ancient and modern, as may prove interesting or important, to take note of the war to vicissitudes of , mark its various phases, and, in fine, do our best to lay clearly before our readers the historical facts— experiences and ” — - Corset ue t on arguments relating to the much discussed qs i . As most of our readers are aware,the leading journals especially intended for the perusal of ladies have been for many years the media for . the exchange of a vast number of letters and papers touching the use of the Corset . The questions relating to the history of ’ t this apparently indispensable article of ladies attire, its cons ruction, n u application, and i fluence on the figure have become so n merous of late all ar that we have thought, by embodying that we can glean and g ner to and w relating Corsets, their wearers, the various costumes orn by ' diflerent ar - e ladies at periods, ranging the subject matt r in its due order as to l O o f u tr n dates, and at the same time avai ing urselves caref l illus atio t . when needed, that an interesting volume would resul P R EFA C E . NO to one, we apprehend, would be likely deny that, to enable the Of h u man race w - fairer portion the civilised _ to follo the time honoured custom of presenting to the eye the waist in its most slender pro in u . portions, the Corset some form must be had reco rse to Our information will show how ancient and almost universal its u se has to a been, and there is no reason nticipate that its aid will ever be dispensed with so long as an elegant and attractive figure is an object worth achieving. of Such being the case, it becomes a matter considerable importance to discover by what means the desirable end can be acquired without injury to the health o f those whose forms are being restrained and moulded into proportions generally accepted as graceful, by the use and influence of the Corset . It will be our duty to lay before th e reader o n the strictures of authors, ancient and modern, this article of dress, and it will be seen that the animadversions of former writers greatly fierceness o f . exceed modern censures, both in number and condemnation This difference probably arises from the fact Of Corsets Of the most o f at th e unyielding and stubborn character being universally made use . time the severest attacks were made upon them ; and there can be no reasonable doubt that much which was written in their condemnation v had some truth in it, although accompanied by a ast deal of fanciful f exaggeration . It would also be not stating the whole o the case if we omitted here to note that modern authors, who launch sweeping anathemas on the very stays by the aid o f which their wives and l daughters are made presentab e in society, almost invariably quote largely from scribes of ancient date, and say little or nothing, of their own knowledge . On the other hand, it will be seen that those P R EFA C E. Q o f writing in praise the moderate use of Corsets take their facts, - experiences, and grounds of argument from the every day life and general custom of the present period . The Crinoline is too closely associated with the Corset and with the ff to mutable modes a ected by ladies, from season season, to be omitted . from any volume which treats of Fashion The same facts , indeed, may be stated of both the Crinoline and the Corset . Both appear to be equally indispensable to the woman of the present period . To make them Of serve the purposes increased cleanliness, comfort, and grace, not only r ‘ without inju y to the health, but with positive and admitted advantage ’ — to the pbysz g ue these are the problems to be solved by those whose business it is to minister to the ever- changing taste and fashion of the day . O N N T S T E . CHAPTE R I . — HE COR ET z ri in amon st Sava e ribe s and Ancient Peo e . S en erness T S O g . g g T pl l d ai st esteeme m th e E as e on i rcassia rim ar ar Hmdu stan ersia ina W d t, C yl , C , C T t y, , P , Ch , E Palestme a es 9 to 29 gypt, P g CHAPTE R II . Th e orset acc rdi n H iu Th t hi m m d th e Mi ra o f o to omer Terent s . e S ro u of Ro e an C g , p , t Gr eece . Th e e man oi e a nd r men . e neral uxur . us . A Ro a o a e P pl T l t, B th, P d G L y ’ eo atra s w Ti - acin n th i er a es 30 to 38 Cl p Je els . ght l g o e T b P g HAP C TE R III . n is i ns Mon s and th e rset rs ts worn en emen as we as ra as o . Th e o e F k h F h k Co . C by G tl ll n a i s in th n nt Th e irt . mal ai s s in S co an . au ce r o L d e e Thirtee th Ce ury. K le S l W t tl d Ch - - Smal ie Th na e te e S oes . Hi ee e u r . n . S irts . S l Bo d s . e S coat L o g Trains k k d h gh h l d Sh ppers Pages 41 to 5 9 CHAPTER I V. nn Hea dr s nd n an . o ets. e ses . tum n Pins in rance a E B d C o s es inth e time of Fra cis I . F gl d ' Mas s in rance . Marie Stuar . on S en er Pufi ed ernais ress . k F S leeve s . B e D t L g l d “ ais s. Henr . of ran - Au s rian o se ro i i s S a s . W t y III F ce tight lace s . t J ph p h b t t y ’ a erin d M wn Rufi s e e e ici and E i z S evere orm of orse . a . C th d l abe th of England . f C t L ’ S arc i . h n S u ffe H . E i z a et s a se Hair. Stu s on t e t h g t d o se Venice Fashi ons . l b h F l b adie m - i 60 to s. a es . affects as i n a rte rs and S oe roses. a er and Ra er a es L J I F h o . G h D gg p P g E CHAPT R V. ’ ouise de orrai ne. Marie d M 6 n a e edici . is n irt Hai r Powder. Hair l e nt. L L D te ded Sk s. f Low resse i s s. ou . ll H e ese ress . ar es . n r ais ts . iam D L XIV n e ls . Sle de W S D Ch l I Patc es . E a ora e m - - o s u es . Puri an M e i acin and S rai t acin un er h l b t C t t o d s . T ght l g t l g d r m A g C o well .