NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS $2.99 VOLUME 70, NUMBER 32 JULy 25–31, 2014 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 69 YEARS TRADE SHOW REPORT Miami’s Swimwear Trade Show Business Makes a Big Splash By Andrew Asch Retail Editor MIAMI BEACH, FLA.—The trend for women’s swim- wear is getting skimpier, but the market for bikinis, one- pieces and coverups is becoming a much bigger business. U.S. swimwear sales increased 6 percent in the 12 months since May to a total of $4.4 billion in sales, ac- cording to market-research firm NPD Group. It could be a bright spot in an economy that many observers judged as mixed. On July 23, National Retail Federation lowered its 2014 retail forecast to an increase of 3.6 percent, compared with an increase of 4.1 percent, which it forecast in Janu- ary. The trade group kept its forecast of sales growing and being strong in the latter half of the year. The higher stakes in the swim business was reflected in the expansion of two of the three trade events held re- cently in South Beach, Miami’s art deco–inspired hotel and nightclub district. Both the longstanding SwimShow and ➥ Miami Swim page 5 Silver Jeans Stores Files Chapter 11, Plans Retail Closings By Alison A. Nieder Executive Editor SJC Inc., the company that has been operating the Sil- ver Jeans retail stores, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on July 21 in U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Wilm- ington, Del., with plans to close the company’s six stores and liquidate inventory. The Burbank, Calif.–based SJC was formed to roll out a retail business for Silver Jeans, the more than 20-year-old brand founded and owned by Canadian denim manufactur- er Western Glove Works. The Silver Jeans brand itself is unaffected by the bankruptcy. The line is sold in more than 30 countries, including at U.S. retailers such as Macy’s, Dillards, Nordstrom, Buckle and Maurices, “Our global wholesale Silver Jeans Co. business, which continues to grow, will not be affected in any way by this sit- uation,” Michael Silver, Silver Jeans president, confirmed. ➥ Silver Jeans page 9 INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM Minimale Animale 2 3 Topson Downs acquires Rachel Roy ... p. 2 New exec at Kellwood West ... p. 2 Brand building in a social-media age ... p. 3 Cruise Collections www.apparelnews.net The Cruise ’15 swim season officially bowed in Miami Beach as swim de- signers introduced their new lines on the runways and at the trade shows. For highlights from the shows, see pages 6–7. TIM REGAS 01.4.5.8.9.indd 1 7/24/14 7:37:20 PM NEWS LA’s Topson Downs Acquires Majority of Rachel Roy Label New York designer Rachel Roy may be Jones Group for discontinuing her designer “I’m thrilled to be working with Topson niors, misses and contemporary labels sold seeing a little more of the Sunshine State. label and denying her access to her own Downs in this next stage of the Rachel Roy at Bloomingdale’s, Kohl’s, Target and Topson Downs, a Los Angeles manufac- sample room. legacy,” the designer said in a statement. Walmart—saw an opportunity to expand turer established in 1971, announced on July Topson Downs said it will form a partner- “My partners and I share a vision on how to the line. “We are excited to continue to grow 18 it had acquired a majority interest in the ship with Roy to develop, market and license nurture and grow a brand through strategic our exclusive partnership with Macy’s with Rachel Roy brand from The Jones Group. the fashion brand that Roy established in investment to position it for great success the RACHEL Rachel Roy brand and en- No purchase price was listed. 2005. Topson Downs will assume all opera- and longevity.” gage in a more omni-channel approach. This The deal should end Roy’s legal tussle tions from The Jones Group, including re- Denise Johnston has been named presi- brand has endless possibilities,” said Topson with The Jones Group, which stopped pro- launching the designer line, and expand the dent of Rachel Roy and RACHEL Rachel Downs partner Daniel Abramovitch. ducing her line earlier this year before the contemporary RACHEL Rachel Roy col- Roy. She will oversee all areas of the line, Topson Downs’ other brands include New York manufacturer was acquired by lection, which has been sold at Macy’s. Roy including licensing. BleuLab, Love, Fire, TT Collection, El- Sycamore Partners. In April, Roy sued The will retain all creative control of her name. Topson Downs—which has several ju- wood and Tinseltown.—Deborah Belgum Kellwood Names Marc Babins President of Western Region DESIGNER PROFILE New York–based Kellwood Co. named He has held similar titles at Aéropostale, the Marc Babins president of Kellwood Western Limited Stores division of Limited Brands Capulet: Menswear-Inspired Contemporary region, based in City of Industry, and Tommy Hilfiger. He was also Calif. president and CEO of Southern Collection for the Rebellious Dreamer Babins will oversee the compa- Trading Co., a company he co- ny’s global supply chain, including founded that serviced activewear When Giuseppe Valentini, Nikolas Apos- leather mini skirts, vegan-leather bottoms technical design, strategic sourcing, brands such as Adidas, Converse, tolopoulos and Chris Berdine decided to cre- and outerwear. For Fall 2014, the collection production, customer service, logis- Champion and Lands’ End. ate a women’s clothing line, they turned to shifted from casual basics such as the parka tics and distribution management, “We are delighted to have Marc Shakespeare to design a collection for the and vintage-inspired lightweight military according to a Kellwood statement. join us at the helm of Kellwood modern-day Juliet. Taking inspiration from jacket to more-formal men’s suiting-inspired He will report to Kellwood Chief Western region, which is a criti- the strength and romanticism of Shake- blazers and vegan-fur aviator coats, Apostol- Executive Officer Lynn Shanahan. Marc Babins cal component in fulfilling our speare’s passionate character, the Los Ange- opoulos said. Kellwood Western region is the strategic vision for the company,” les–based team introduced Capulet, clothing All of the pieces are manufactured in Los company’s largest operational unit and serves Shanahan said in a company statement. for the edgy, rebellious, dreamer type. This Angeles, China and Turkey, depending on as Kellwood’s design and product-develop- “Marc’s expertise adds value to Kellwood on eclectic, carefree spirit fits the prototype of the garment. “Finding the right fabric is a ment center and the distribution and logistics many levels. He is an industry leader who has the LA woman. crucial part of our process,” Apostolopoulos hub for its brands, which include Rebecca a proven track record of success in virtually “She’s sophisticated and empowered. She said. The 2014 FW collection includes leath- Taylor, Sam Edelman, XOXO, My Mi- all aspects of the apparel industry, including is selective but not driven by fast trends or er, Italian jacquards, Italian plaid, neoprene, chele, Jolt, Democracy, Sangria, Jax, Sag product development, sourcing, production, high-end brand Italian Aztec-tex- Harbor and Briggs NY. supply-chain management and quality assur- tribalism; she mixes tured blends, vegan Babins most recently served as senior vice ance. He also has significant experience as an high with low. She leather, Ultrasuede president of strategic sourcing and product de- entrepreneur leading his own company.” doesn’t take herself and vegan furs. velopment at Destination Maternity Corp. —Alison A. Nieder too seriously. She “Although we follows her heart,” produce some Valentini said. styles in genuine The finely tai- leather, we know lored pieces nod to that a large portion a grungy, ’90s nos- of our customer talgia with added base is more con- femininity. There scious, preferring is a juxtaposition not to buy genuine of spring florals, leather. We appre- wintery plaids and ciate this, so each striped patterns, season, we source maxi dresses, scal- or develop beautiful loped skirts, and vegan leathers and jumpers, as well as vegan furs, allow- preppy blazers and ing our customers racing moto jack- to still get the look ets. [of leather]. We’ve Valentini, Apos- also found that cer- t o l o p o u l o s a n d tain styles, like our Berdine are longtime friends with shared moto pants, fit better in the vegan leather,” backgrounds in apparel and tailored mens- Apostolopoulos said. wear. “While we were designing for men, The designers attribute the fit and subtle our female friends kept asking us to dive into details in the garments to their background in womenswear. So we did,” Valentini said. menswear. “Our peak-lapel double-breasted After attending the Fashion Institute of blazer has an elegant fit with a leather elbow Design & Merchandsing, Valentini worked patch, giving the garment a distinctive, femi- as a designer for sportswear and menswear nine look. Our wrap jacket is another versa- brands. With his experience, Valentini pro- tile piece that is vintage-inspired and com- vides a “refined Italian touch and a relentless fortable, perfect for both the beachcomber attention to detail,” Berdine said. and city girl,” Apostolopoulos said. Australian-born Apostolopoulos has a Wholesale price points vary according background in fabrications and manufactur- to item, with graphic tees priced at $29, a ing. “Apostolopoulos is an integral [part in] zip-sleeve sweatshirt at $66, a maxi dress at our design and product-development pro- $80, vegan-leather jumper at $122 and veg- cess, also managing all aspects of domestic an moto pant at $70.