© Lonely Planet Publications 171 www.lonelyplanet.com LATVIA •• Highlights 172 HIGHLIGHTS HOW MUCH ? Rīga ( p187 ) Wander cobbled medieval streets, slide past Art-Nouveau flourishes Cup of coffee from 0.50Ls and watch the sun rise over a skyline of Latvia Taxi fare per kilometre 45Ls to 65Ls spires and turrets. Gauja Valley ( p227 ) Get your adrena- Public transport ticket 0.2Ls line rushing by bungee jumping, bob- Bicycle hire (daily) 4.50Ls sleighing or skiing amid this exquisite If you’re yearning to hit Europe’s untrodden jackpot, cash in your chips in Latvia (Latvija). landscape. Sauna per hour 10Ls Still undiscovered by the tourism masses, this sizzling Baltic sexpot is poised to become the Jūrmala ( p220 ) Soak up sun and Baltic Sea continent’s next A-list star. A country in transition, hellbent on shedding its stalwart old- vistas in this boisterous resort area. LONELY PLANET INDEX Liepāja (p261 ) Discover the heart and soul Soviet image, the Latvia of today is vibrant, enigmatic and altogether mesmerising. Refresh- Litre of petrol 0.54Ls of Latvia’s rock ’n’ roll scene in this pro- LATVIA ingly unpretentious, Latvia manages to tantalise even the most jaded traveller. Many arrive gressive city poised to become a major Litre of bottled water 0.50Ls expecting little and leave overwhelmed, certain they’ve uncovered long-buried treasure. Baltic hot spot. 50cl bottle of beer 0.40Ls LATVIA Cape Kolka ( p253 ) Feast on fresh fish, Bustling Rīga, with its pumping nightlife, cobbled streets and marvellous Art-Nouveau gulp mouthfuls of crisp air and savour Souvenir T-shirt 5Ls architecture is one of Eastern Europe’s most fun cities. Away from the capital, the pace the solitude of wild and windswept Cape Street snack 1.50Ls slows. Historic villages, miles from anywhere, sit frozen in time. Despite growing popularity, Kolka. Latvia is still one of those places where you can embrace the unbeaten path and become ITINERARIES High inflation has hindered efforts to peg an intrepid adventurer exploring virgin terrain. From crumbling castles in pine-scented Three days Visit Rīga, with a choice of the lats to the euro (the first step towards forests to alluring resorts on the edge of the ice-blue Baltic Sea, it’s very easy to just get day trips to Sigulda and the Gauja Val- making the euro the country’s currency), but away. Summer is an especially magical time – twilight comes near midnight and by 4am it’s ley, Jūrmala, the Ķemeri National Park, the government has imposed tough meas- light again. After long, dark winters, Latvians seem determined to soak up as much light as Rūndale Palace, the Pedvāle Open-Air ures to curb inflation while still boosting Art Museum and nearby Kuldīga or growth, and the country is now establishing possible and the whole country exudes a frenetic, turbocharged energy. Beer gardens pop Tukums. formal links with the common currency and up in even the smallest villages and revellers slug pints well into the night. One week Do Rīga and some day-trip hopes to adopt the euro within a few years. destinations, then take the Rīga–Kolka The EU invested more than €1 billion in It’s hard to believe this tiny, vivacious nation shed its Russian stranglehold less than two coastal road stopping in Jūrmala, Ķemeri the country between 2004 and 2006, and the decades ago because, despite years of intense suffering under Soviet and Nazi occupations, and some of the fishing villages around funds are benefiting key economic develop- Latvia has a serenity and charm rarely found elsewhere in Europe. Roja. See where the Gulf of Rīga and ment projects. the Baltic Sea meet at Cape Kolka, then Since independence in 1991 Latvia has This is Latvia’s moment. Visit before everyone else does. nose-dive into the Slītere National Park held four elections and had a string of and its Livonian villages. Dip south to governments, all leaning centre-right. The happening Liepāja, stopping in wealthy country’s latest political shake-up came in FAST FACTS Ventspils along the way. 2004, when Prime Minister Indulis Emsis Two weeks Explore western Latvia at a resigned following a parliamentary vote to Area 64,600 sq km (twice the size of Belgium) more leisurely pace, allowing time to reject the 2005 draft budget. Emsis, of the Birthplace of the world’s first miniature scale Slītere Lighthouse, follow a few na- Greens and Farmers union, was Europe’s camera, the VEF Minox ture trails in the national parks and enjoy first Green premier. His minority coalition Capital Rīga some boating, bird-watching or other ac- government lasted only eight months. Ai- tivity. Or split the fortnight in two and gars Kalvitis, of the centre-right People’s Country code %371 spend a week exploring eastern Latvia – Party, was given the task of picking up the Departure tax none include the Gauja Valley and Alūksne’s pieces. Kalvitis’ four-party coalition was Famous for winning the 2002 Eurovision narrow-gauge railway. approved in December 2004 and the new Song Contest prime minister promised to work towards political stability. Money Latvian lats 1 = 0.70Ls; CURRENT EVENTS From political shake-ups to ‘get tough now’ Latvia made lots of world headlines in UK1 = 1.02Ls; US$1 = 0.58Ls economic policies, there’s a lot going on in 2005. In May of that year US President Population 2.4 million Latvia today. Although one-third of Latvians George W Bush visited the country as part Visa not required for visits of up to 90 days for voted against joining the EU in 2004, today of a tour commemorating the end of WWII. citizens of the EU, the US, Canada, Australia, the general mood in the country towards Before Bush’s arrival, the local media en- New Zealand and Japan. See p391 for details. membership is optimistic and Latvia has couraged anyone living in Rīga to stay in- moved quickly to embrace the free market. side during the visit, or better yet, sojourn euro currency converter 1 = 15.64Kr / 0.70Ls / 3.45Lt euro currency converter 1 = 15.64Kr / 0.70Ls / 3.45Lt LATVIA 173 0 80 km LATVIA 0 50 miles LATVIA To Tartu ESTONIA To Pärnu (30km); Haademeeste Talli Moisakula Karksi-Nula Räpina Joarjo Otepää Sääre Tallinn (180km) Põlva E67 Tõrva Värska Pujiena Sangaste Ainazi Võru Ruhnu Mazsalace Pechory Pskov Sl‹tere Kolka Staicele Valga Antsla Salacgriva Aloja National Park Mazirbe Valka ESTONIA Rõuge Matisi E77 Ovisi Mikeltornis Strenci Gulf of R‹ga Moniste Rogosi Latvia euro currency converter converter euro currency Dundaga RUSSIA Kaltene Tuja Trikata B A L T I C Ventspils Limbazi Valmiera Ape S E A E67 Valdemarpils E77 Varve Smiltene Al©ksne Ugale M‡rsrags Igate Skulte Mazstraupe Ilzene Rauna Talsi Saulkrasti C‡sis Gauja Vidzeme Kurzeme Teranda Stende E77 Vilaka Murjani Ve²aki Sigulda Plienciems Gulbene Sabile Kandava Druviena Balvi Alsvanga Nitaure Skujene Velki Kuld‹ga Tukums P„vilosta Kabile J©rmala RŒGA Malpils Rugaji E262 Cesvaine 1 = 15.64Kr / 0.70Ls / 3.45Lt 1 = 15.64Kr / 0.70Ls / 3.45Lt Zemite Kalnciems Salaspils Ozoli Ergli Madona Lubana Mengele Aizpute Dzukste Ogre E77 Ruskalava K„rsava Baldone Liebarde Saikava Skrunda Saldus Zemgale Laudona Stiglava E67 E22 Koknese Dobele Jelgava Lecava Vecmuiza Jaunjelgava Liep„ja Aizkraukle Gostini Varaklani Priekule E22 Auce Ludza Klampji Kiburi Kalnamuiza Dzisji Vilani Pirunsd„le Atasiene R‡zekne Eleja Bauska J‡kabpils Krumini Alsiai Skaistkaine Skuodas Ma¢eikiai Zabare R„zna Zilupe Viesite Livani Lake E77 Malta Kaunata Preili E262 Seda Joniškis Zeimelis Medininkai Salociai E22 Papile Latgale Birzai Nereta www.lonelyplanet.com Gruzdziai Andrupene Rukmuiza Darbenai Tryskiai Akniste Aglona Suvainiskis Daugava Kuršenai Linkuva Palanga Pasvalys Auleja Dagda Subata Telšiai E67 Pandelys Kretinga Plung› Šiauliai Vabalninkas Rokiškis Ilukste Pampenai BELARUS Zarenai LITHUANIA Klaip›da Radvilskis Kupiškis Daugavpils Kraslava E22 Garg¢dai Rietavas Varniai Smilgiai E262 E77 E271 Seduva Dusetos Zarasai Panev›Åys Laukuva Kelme Svedasai To Vilnius (110km); Juodkrantë Sveksna E272 Uzpaliai Kaunas (130km) www.lonelyplanet.com the march, the event went ahead and drew theevent went ahead anddrew the march, Latvian publicly condemned prime minister though the for gay rights activists.Even inR march gist…). thenegative get to intheir language sounds like ‘peace duke’ what speaker toaskaRussian (you’ll have Duke’ as‘WelcomePeace sloganssuch tured fea- aroundtown.Thebright posters bars poppedupincafésand posters anti-Bush tosleepon which them.Priorto the visit, ship theconundrumbyhiringalarge solved them.TheLatviancommodate government notenough bedstoac- hotel were big there wasso Bush’s entourage complicated, more matters possible sniperbullets!Tomake against toldthiswasaprecaution they were windows whenBushwasinthevicinity – neartheir anysuddenmovements to make not asked Residentswere to thecountryside. fascist protestors inR fascist protestors Latvia’sof SSbrigadeand clasheswithanti- –withdemonstrations byveterans versy acontro- quite and herdecision created WWII celebrations, tation endof toattend only Baltic leader toacceptMoscow’sinvi- The Baltics’ first gay pride event – a The Baltics’ gayprideevent –a first V Vaira President ( P Togetthescoop,visit itisalsoafabulousday-in-the-life experience. way tolearnmore, onanamberhuntisnotonlyagreat of theirlivingfromsellingit.Followingtheprofessionals Amberfishersscourthecoastforsubstanceandmake aportion spring andautumnstorms. makes a wonderful photo. 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