29th International Cotton Conference BREMEN April 2 - 5, 2008 Proceedings Editor Friedrich Marquardt, Bremer Baumwollbörse Published by Faserinstitut Bremen e.V. and Bremer Baumwollbörse Am Biologischen Garten 2, 28359 Bremen Wachtstr. 17-24, 28195 Bremen Tel.: +49 421 218-9329 Tel.: +49 421 339700 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Contents pages Preface to the Proceedings 2008 5 Lead Author Index 6 Session I: Global View on Cotton 7 • The consumer’s role in ensuring fair working conditions in the 8 textil industry Tanja Busse • Update on costs of producing cotton in the world 9-13 Rafiq Chaudhry • Comparative analysis of cotton sector reforms in Africa 14-30 and their impact on cotton quality Colin Poulton • Experiences with the relocation of textile production to India 31-43 Werner Braun • Recent developments in cotton production and cotton processing 44 in China John Cheh • The international year of natural fibres 45-53 Brian Moir Session II: Cotton Production and Ginning 54 • Ginning cotton for quality: The example of Brazil 55-64 Jean-Luc Chanselme, João Luiz Pessa • Experiences of Bt cotton cultivation in India 65-76 Charudatta Mayee • Alleviating cotton stickiness - experience and future 77-81 research topics Gary Gamble • The market for Australian long staple upland cotton 82-92 Marinus van der Sluijs • Development in good agricultural practices for cotton in Brazil 93-96 Andrew Macdonald Contents pages Session III: Panel Discussion - Sustainability in Cotton Production 97 • Participants: Don Cameron Francesca Manchini Mark Messura Dieter Overath Jens Soth Session IV: Cotton Trade, Economics, New Products 98 • Polyester staple fibre production and processing 99-107 Thomas Gries • Detection of genetically modified cotton in raw material 108 and cotton products Lothar Kruse, Hermann Rüggeberg • Innovations for cotton products 109 Mark Messura Session V: Cotton Properties, Cotton Testing 110 • The ITMF cotton contamination survey 2007 111-129 Christian Schindler • Results of a study of length and neps measurement with 130-148 Premier aQura Axel Drieling • Improvement of maturity ratio measurement of cotton fibres 149-154 Piao Yan, Zhijie Zhang • On-line measurement of fiber length in the gin 155-162 Hossein Ghorashi • Cotton fibre linear density and maturity measurement 163-184 and application Stuart Gordon, Geoffrey Naylor Contents pages Session VI: Cotton Testing and Testing Harmonisation 185 ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods • Chairmans report ITMF committee on cotton testing methods Anton Schenek • Task Force on HVI - Mona Qaud • Task Force on Length - Axel Drieling • Task Force on Stickiness - Jean-Paul Gourlot • Task Force on Neps and Trash - Jonn Foulk • Task Force on Fineness and Maturity - Gary Gamble • Task Force on Colour - Malgorzata Matusiak • International activities in cotton classification standards 186-189 James Knowlton • Results of the first year of implementation of the CSITC 190-205 Round Trial Axel Drieling • Cotton classing reform in China 206-210 Xiaoxin Yu, Naihua Wang • Analysis of chemical residues on cotton and cotton Products 211-214 Rainer Weckmann Session VII: Cotton Processing 215 • New method for the detection and separation of foreign parts 216-220 including polypropylene Armin Leder • The way to optimal yarn quality 221-270 Iris Biermann • Modern combing systems - economy and quality 271-275 Albert Rusch • True Neps: Measurement and correlation to results in ring-spinning 276-285 Varadarajan Srinivasan • Five year spinning study 286-297 Jonn Foulk Preface to the Proceedings 2008 The 2008 International Cotton Conference, Bremen, is the 29th in a series that is one of the primary meeting points for cotton specialists worldwide. Besides the Conference itself, many committees like the CSITC Task Force, the ITMF Committee on Cotton Testing Methods and the CICCA Working Group will meet in this outstanding week for cotton. The conference is organised in a fruitful co-operation between the Fibre Institute Bremen and the Bremen Cotton Exchange. Our objective is to present the current status of important developments starting with the cotton production and ending in the textile process and markets. Despite the broad range of interesting topics, cotton quality and testing are still the heart of the conference. One centre of attention of the conference is the sustainable cotton production and processing, covering not only environmental aspects, but with the same importance social and economical aspects. A panel discussion will highlight the different angles of view. The development in China is of great interest for everybody being involved in cotton and textiles. Thus cotton production, testing and processing in China will be presented as well as research results from this region. Besides China, reports will be given covering all cotton producing and cotton processing continents of the world, and will give cotton specific views on globalisation. For cotton testing, the focal point will be the testing itself as well as the indispensable worldwide harmonisation of testing. The final session will follow the tradition in Bremen to review some of the latest developments in fibre processing, and several of the major machinery builders have again be invited to describe their progress in improving the transformation from cotton to yarn. We would like to thank all the authors for their work and for delivering their manuscripts for these Conference Proceedings. The written proceedings are worthy of study, as many of the manuscripts contain much more details than can be exposed in the limited time available for oral presentations. A great deal of hard work has been done by many people behind the scenes. So we would additionally like to express our gratitude to all those who contributed to the overall organisation of the conference. Axel Drieling Jan B. Wellmann Faserinstitut Bremen e.V. Bremer Baumwollbörse (Fibre Institute Bremen) (Bremen Cotton Exchange) 29th International Cotton Conference BREMEN April 2 - 5, 2008 Lead Author Index Biermann, Iris Leder, Armin Braun, Werner Macdonald, Andrew Busse, Tanja Mayee, C.D. Chanselme, Jean-Luc Messura, Mark Chaudhry, Rafiq Moir, Brian Cheh, John Poulton, Colin Drieling, Axel Rusch, Albert Foulk, Jonn Schindler, Christian Gamble, Gary Srinivasan, Varadarajan Ghorashi, Hossein van der Sluijs, Marinus Gordon, Stuart Weckmann, Rainer Gries, Thomas Yan, Piao Knowlton, James Yu, Xiaoxin Kruse, Lothar 29th International Cotton Conference BREMEN April 2 - 5, 2008 Session I: Global View on Cotton • The consumer‘s role in ensuring fair working conditions in the textile Tanja Busse • Update on costs of producing cotton in the world Rafiy Chaudhry • Comparative analysis of cotton sector reforms in Africa and their impact on cotton quality Colin Poulton • Experiences with the relocation of textile production to India Werner Braun • Recent developments in cotton production and cotton processing in China John Cheh • The international year of natural fibres Brian Moir THE CONSUMER’S ROLE IN ENSURING FAIR WORKING CONDITIONS IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY T. BUSSE Author and Journalist, Hamburg, Germany Editor’s Note A written paper was not provided by the author prior to the conference. UPDATE ON COSTS OF PRODUCING COTTON IN THE WORLD M. R. Chaudhry Head, Technical Information Section International Cotton Advisory Committee The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) has been studying the cost of cotton production since the early 1980s. Survey is undertaken every three years and government agencies in the ICAC member government countries are the primary sources of information from most countries. Thirty-one countries that planted 30.1 million hectares, 88% of world cotton area in 2006/07, participated in the survey published in October 2007. The data from all countries are for the crop season 2006/07. WORLD AVERAGE The average of all countries that participated in the survey showed that farmers spent US$717 to produce one hectare of cotton. This does not include cost of land rent but includes all inputs and operations up to the harvesting of seedcotton. The average cost of producing a kilogram of seedcotton came to US$0.34, which is only one cent higher than the cost in 2003/04. The addition of ginning, economic and fixed costs determine the total cost per hectare and per kilogram of lint. The gross cost (including land rent and without excluding seed value) per kilogram of lint in the world averaged US$1.64 in 2006/07. The value of seed sold after ginning may be significantly lower or higher than the cost of ginning. Thus, a net cost has been calculated excluding land rent and seed value from the total cost. The net cost of producing lint per hectare came to US$767/ha. The net cost of producing a kilogram of lint averaged US$1.04 compared to US$1.01 in 2003/04 and US$0.83 in 2000/01 COST OF PRODUCTION BY REGION The thirty-one countries participating in the survey were divided into six groups: North America, South America, Asia, Australia, West Africa and other Africa. The most money was spent in Australia to produce and harvest a hectare of cotton. Three West African countries participated in the survey, and on average, farmers spend US$391 to produce a hectare of cotton. The expenses of producing one hectare of seedcotton were close to double West African costs in Asia, almost three times in Australia and 12% higher in other African countries. However, the average cost of production of seedcotton among regions was close,