ART & LIFE 3 TRAVEL ALGERIA The building of the now extinct Disco Maghreb label is a shrine for Raï fans Oran is the new black Algeria’s second city is unique for its sights, coastline and fusion flavours with Berber, Arab and European influences. Pack your swimmers and comfortable shoes and make the most of 48 hours in this West Coast Mediterranean hub, taking in the shops, the sounds and the sea PHOTOGRAPHER tart your day with a freshly cinema and plenty of florists. Pick up At seafood restaurant Le Corsaire, squeezed orange juice, a good some Algerian pastries from L’Algéroise dive into the catch of the day or their S café au lait (kahwa halib) and – perhaps some griwech, a sweet local famous paella, a reminder of the Spanish a croissant, either on the terrace of the pastry with honey, the dry biscuit torno influences on the region. End the day Four Points hotel – while gazing out or ghoriba shortbread. Raï fans will def- by climbing up to Santa Cruz, to the across the magnificent sea and inhaling initely want to pay homage at the Disco chapel built in the 16th-century during the fresh Mediterranean air – or, if you Maghreb building; the legendary label the Spanish colonisation. Here you can prefer it strong and to the point, and and record store has now closed down- marvel at the town and sea from above. dirt cheap, at the counter of any café. but you can grab some Cheb Khaled, Next day, with your new playlist on First stop is the Musée National Cheb Hasni and Raina Raï from stores the go, drive along the coastline past Ahmed Zabana, named after the in- in Les Arcades. the beach town of Aïn El Turck, where dependence hero. There’s the scent of lavender flavours the air, to a floor dedicated to Al- Drive along the coast past Madagh beach. Swim or dance on the gerian independence, 20th- sand, then explore the neighbouring century Algerian artists in- Aïn El Turck, where the scent hills with their very cute wild donkeys. cluding modernist Azouaou of lavender flavours the air Back at Aïn El Turck, enjoy a drink Mammeri, mosaics, an- on the terrace of Eden Palace, a hotel cient sculptures and French Oriental- For a moment of calm, sip a mint tea perched on the sea, then head back to ist paintings. at the majestic Royal Hotel, where you town to La Comète for a kitsch 80s vibe In total contrast, plunge into the can even find a spa downstairs to get the restaurant offering fish soup, tender hustle and bustle of nearby Marché blood flowing during the colder months. lamb, seafood and the local tipple. Medina Jedida, where jewellery, cloth- Refreshed, head into the old town, To end the night, pop up to the Ciel ing, food and bric-à-brac are traded. It’s Sidi El-Houari, where you can visit D’Oran on the roof of the Sheraton the perfect place to try the local chick the 18th-century Pasha’s Mosque, and for a nightcap while watching the city pea snack, karantika. Take a stroll above Place du 1er Novembre with the colo- shimmer. Or, if you’re game, hit Cab- the seafront before hitting Les Arcades nial Théâtre Régional, the Porte de la aret Murdjajo to listen to live Raï music in the centre of town – a shopping area Citadelle, Château Neuf fort and the and dance the night away. ● with boutiques, the large El-Maghreb ruins of the Palais du Bey. Ruby Boukabou THE AFRICA REPORT • N° 84 • OCTOBER 2016.