Spring in Southern Portugal Naturetrek Tour Report 5 - 12 April 2016 Report by Philip Thompson Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Spring in Southern Portugal Tour participants: Philip Thompson and Keith Buchanan (leaders) with 16 Naturetrek clients Day 1 Tuesday 5th April Once the main group flying from Gatwick had met up with the remaining clients we soon had our minibuses collected and loaded up. We drove the short distance north to the quiet town of Sao Bras de Alportel where we stopped to have a light lunch in a café. Whilst relaxing on their terrace we could here the song of a Blue Rock Thrush coming from a nearby rooftop, but it remained out of sight. Once fed and refreshed we continued our journey northwards, with the route rising into the hills of the Serra do Caldeirao. The road became increasingly winding as we passed into this attractive habitat of Cistus and Cork Oak dominated slopes. We stopped at a hilltop viewpoint where we were able to disembark and begin acquainting ourselves with the rich local flora. Among the numerous species present, of which several would become familiar during the trip, a few notable finds included Ornithogalum broteroi and the Portugeuse endemic Helminthotheca comosa subsp. lusitanica (Picris algarbiensis). The windy conditions hampered any birding but we did succeed in picking out a singing male Subalpine Warbler which, after some patience, provided good views as it sang from the top of a nearby Gum Cistus (Cistus ladanifer). After our first introduction to the flora and fauna of Portugal we then completed our journey to the historic town of Mertola where we were to spend the next three nights. We had a pleasant evening meal in a small local restaurant where we had our first taste of the local Alentejo cuisine. Day 2 Wednesday 6th April We began our day with a visit to the beauty spot of Pulo do Lobo. The journey there took us through an attractive landscape of Cistus covered slopes with a colourful array of other flowers mixed in. We paused en route at a small stream that passed under the road through a culvert. Here a couple of pairs of Red-rumped Swallows and Eurasian Crag Martins were hawking for insects and presumably breeding in the cave-like culvert. Whilst looking among the mix of plants we were lucky in having a pair of territorial male Common Nightingales, losing their customary skulking habits, chase each other past our noses. With boundaries re-established one then gave a burst of song, joined by another individual a little further up the shallow valley. Arriving at Pulo do Lobo we drove directly down to the Guardiana River and the narrow pinch-neck in the river as it cut through a band of schist rock and where, over millennia, it had created a striking series of hollows and cataracts. We spent some pleasant time admiring the river and picking out the various birds feeding and breeding in the area. Most notable were the abundant Eurasian Crag Martins and swallows constantly swooping past. Among the rocky river surrounds a couple of Rock Buntings were found, joined by a stunning male Blue Rock Thrush singing from above the gorge and showing its lovely steel-blue colour in the sun. A few plants were in flower, such as Dianthus lusitanus, but of most significance was the presence of numerous examples of the rather visually underwhelming Flueggea tinctoria, an Iberian endemic shrub confined to these rocky riversides. The steep slopes held a mix of Cistus and typical Mediterranean shrubs and herbs. We walked up the access track to a viewpoint overlooking the river. On the inaccessible steep slope beneath us a couple of flowering examples of Cleome violacea were picked out against the stones. This member of the garden Spider Plants is the only native © Naturetrek May 16 1 Spring in Southern Portugal Tour Report representative of the family in Europe and on close examination has an interesting and attractive flower, and somewhat lacks the showiness of the garden forms! We next drove on a short distance to our lunch spot beneath a fine spreading example of evergreen oak Quercus rotundifolia on a small hilltop with fine views all around. Whilst enjoying lunch we were fortunate in spotting our target bird for the area as a splendid Black Stork cruised overhead surveying its territory. Among the surrounding trees a handsome Crested Tit was teased closer for the group to admire. With lunch over we next spent some time among the rich mix of flowers in this single spot. Among the mix of four species of Cistus, a few examples of the white-flowered close relative Halimium umbellatum subsp. viscosum were found and admired. Other notable plant finds included the endemic Campanula lusitanica, Verbascum barnadesii and Linaria spartea. We then returned to Mertola where several of the group took the opportunity to spend the afternoon exploring this historic town. The main group then drove on to explore a couple of areas to the east of Mertola. We stopped first to check out a small lake. As we approached this spot a pair of Black-eared Wheatears were disturbed from the roadside, which were admired more closely by a few of the group once we had stopped and disembarked. We scanned the lake from a distant viewpoint and picked out several pairs of Red-crested Pochard among the more familiar wildfowl. We opted not to make any closer approach and instead drove on to make our next stop at a pleasant riverside spot on the Rio Chanca. We took a slow and pleasant amble in this quiet area. Among the gravel beds by the river a pair of Little Ringed Plovers showed well and were unconcerned by the group. Among the flowers a lovely show of the delicate Omphalodes linifolia made an attractive sight. Our final stop of the day was alongside a dirt farm track overlooking a wide area of open grassy hillsides. From here we picked out our first views of the iconic birds of the region in the shape of both species of bustard. Around 10 Great Bustards were present, with a small number of male Little Bustards picked out in the long grass and unknown numbers of females invisible in the herbage. Joining these impressive birds were several singing Calandra Larks and a healthy colony of Lesser Kestrels in the vicinity of an artificial breeding tower. Day 3 Thursday 7th April Today was spent exploring the open rolling country of the Castro Verde SPA. Our first stop was a quiet roadside junction where we disembarked to have a prolonged view of the mix of Spanish and House Sparrows that breed in the basement of the large White Stork nests found on nearly every available post in the area. Also in the vicinity were several Red-rumped Swallows and Zitting Cisticolas, which were loudly singing their name from the sky above, but due to their diminutive size proved difficult to locate for some. We then drove a short distance to take a short walk in this sensitive area. Sticking closely to the path we walked a farm track to a small hilltop. The surrounding tall crops held several Great Bustards of both sexes, which kept their customary distance. Proving suitably tricky to pick out were a couple of male Little Bustards which were only visible when the raised their heads to call and inflated their black neck feathers. We next drove to the entrance to the LPN reserve at Sao Marcos da Atobeira. Whilst we soon picked out a couple of male Great Bustards striding across the grasslands our attention was diverted to the sight of three immature Spanish Imperial Eagles competing over what appeared to be a bustard carcass! One bird seemed to prove dominant and spent some time plucking feathers whilst the two others spent time in aerial jostling with 2 © Naturetrek May 16 Spring in Southern Portugal Tour Report each other. A single Griffon Vulture drifted low overhead no doubt keeping a watchful eye on the proceedings. Another short drive further along the main road brought us to a convenient lay-by where we stopped once more to scan the surrounding area. Several more impressive male Great Bustards were immediately found, this time a little closer with little heat haze. This time a Cinereous (Black) Vulture passed low overhead and provided an unbeatable view as it drifted across the fields. To put this in the shade, a large flock of 50+ Great Bustards then rose into the air and crossed the road to settle on the crest of the opposite slope. It was a stunning sight and within 400 metres of where we had parked. Great fortune indeed! With time beginning to run short we had just enough time to take a quick stop at a small river where we could admire the local species of Daffodil, Narcissus jonquilla and bulbocodium. A few Pond Terrapins where spotted in the river whilst we relaxed and photographed the flowers. We then needed to move on to Castro Verde for our lunch date at a local café. After a little confusion over the new location of said premises we sat down to an epic meal of local meats and cheeses accompanied by plentiful wine and followed by an array of delicious desserts, and finally a coffee! Whilst a siesta may have proved tempting for some, we said our thank-you’s and headed on for further birding.