Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 6 fashion from yale Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 7 fashionnow Gothic Dark Glamour Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park 2008 192pp. 100 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13694-4 £19.99* From its origins in the eighteenth-century literature of terror to its contemporary manifestations in vampire fiction, cinema and art, the gothic has embraced the powers of horror and the erotic macabre. ‘Gothic’ is an epithet with a strange history—evoking images of death, destruction and decay. Ironically, its negative connotations have made the gothic an ideal symbol of rebellion for a wide range of cultural outsiders. Popularly associated with black-clad teenagers and rock musicians, gothic fashion encompasses not only subcultural styles (from old- school goth to cyber-goth and beyond) but also high fashion by such designers as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano of Christian Dior, Rick Owens, Olivier Theyskens and Yohji Yamamoto. As the text and lavish illustrations in this book suggest, gothic fashion has deep cultural roots that give it an enduring potency. Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Superheroes Fashion and Fantasy Andrew Bolton With an essay by Michael Chabon 2008 160pp. 300 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13670-8 £30.00* From Wonder Woman’s satin stars and golden bracelets to Batman’s brooding cape and mask, the style of superheroes’ dress has influenced both street wear and high fashion. This richly illustrated book explores how radical couture, avant-garde sportswear and state-of-the-art military garments—as seen through the lens of the superhero—can be metaphors for sex, power and politics. Beginning with the origins of the superhero costume, this volume looks at how designers have been influenced by iconographic components such as the cape, mask, boots and unitard. Costumes, such as those worn by Batman and Catwoman, are examined as reflections of sexual and physical prowess, while others, most notably those of Superman and Captain America, are analysed as political propaganda. Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 8 fashionnow Extreme Beauty Wild The Body Transformed Fashion Untamed Harold Koda Andrew Bolton Published in association with Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2004 192pp. 228 colour illus. 2004 180pp. 32 b/w + 65 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10312-0 £19.95* Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10638-1 £14.99* AngloMania Fashion at the Edge Tradition and Transgression Spectacle, Modernity in British Fashion and Deathliness Andrew Bolton Caroline Evans With an essay by Ian Buruma 2007 334pp. 100 b/w + 100 colour illus. Published in association with Pb ISBN 978-0-300-12467-5 £19.99* The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2007 150pp. 81 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11785-1 £18.50* Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 9 fashiondesigners Madame Grès Sphinx of Fashion Patricia Mears 2008 184pp. 90 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13692-0 £35.00* While the classically inspired ‘Grecian’ gown designed by Madame Alix Grès is widely recognised and admired, little else of the brilliant couturier’s life or work has received close attention. This book, by far the most detailed study yet published on this influential fashion designer, carefully analyses Madame Grès’ innovative construction techniques and connects her designs to the art styles and movements that inspired and informed her aesthetic. “Mears brings to her subject a genuine appreciation for the engineering that formed the basis of Grès’s innovation and for her tenacious, obsessive pursuit of custom techniques that were inherently uncommercial, severely curtailing the expansion of her business empire.” —Holly Brubach, New York Times, Style Magazine Poiret Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton With an introduction by Nancy J. Troy Contributions by Caroline Evans, Heather Hess, Jared Goss and Caroline Milbank 2007 224pp. 195 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12029-5 £29.99* In the annals of fashion history, French couturier Paul Poiret is known for liberating women from corsets and introducing pantaloons for women. However, it is Poiret’s innovations in the cut and construction of clothing, made all the more remarkable by the fact that he could not sew, that secures his legacy. This essential book is the first to explore Poiret’s radical modernity from a number of perspectives. Essays by renowned scholars describe the historical context of his work; its relation to the dominant artistic discourses of the early twentieth century; his muse, Denise Poiret, and her influence on his work; and his role in the paradigmatic shift to a new ideal of feminine beauty. “destined to become a collectors item”—Richard Edmonds, Birmingham Post Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 10 fashiondesigners Chanel Balenciaga Harold Koda and His Legacy and Andrew Bolton With contributions from Haute Couture from the Karl Lagerfeld Texas Fashion Collection Published in association with Myra Walker The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Published in association with 2005 216pp. 166 colour illus. The Meadows Museum, Dallas Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10713-5 £25.00* 2006 225pp. 40 b/w + 112 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12153-7 £30.00* Fashion, Ralph Rucci Italian Style The Art of Weightlessness Valerie Steele Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears and Clare Sauro Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Published in association with The Museum 2003 144pp. 5 b/w +132 colour illus. at the Fashion Institute of Technology Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10014-3 £20.00* 2007 224pp. 150 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12278-7 £29.99* Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 11 fashionaccessories Artistic Luxury Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique Edited by Stephen Harrison Essays by Emmanuel Ducamp and Jeannine Falino January 2009 288pp. approx. 300 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14224-2 £40.00* Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique—these great designers came together only once to display their goods in what was probably the most opulent exhibition ever mounted. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, the three strove to position themselves ahead of their many competitors in the luxury market, each presenting his jewellery and home adornments as high art. Their success is explored in this splendidly illustrated catalogue, which elucidates the prewar pinnacle of European culture. The array of displayed objects was mesmerising: Tiffany glass, Easter eggs to dazzle the Czars, realistic insects created in precious materials as sinister decorations. Many of these bore influences of the advanced art of the time, such as Art Nouveau, Viennese modernism and symbolism and of styles from around the world. Published in association with the Cleveland Museum of Art Bejewelled by Tiffany Georg Jensen 1837–1987 Jewelry Clare Phillips • With contributions Edited by David A. Taylor by Vivienne Becker, Ulysses Grant Published in association with the Dietz, Alice Cooney Frelinghuysen, Bard Graduate Center for Studies in John Loring and Katherine Purcell the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture The Gilbert Collection Trust/Tiffany & Co. 2005 400pp. 70 b/w + 330 colour illus. 2006 320pp. 170 b/w + 300 colour illus. ISBN 978-0-300-10706-7 £35.00* Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11651-9 £45.00* Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 12 fashion&design Marimekko Wearing Propaganda Fabrics, Fashion, Textiles on the Home Front in Japan, Architecture Britain, and the United States 1931–1945 Edited by Marianne Aav Jacqueline M. Atkins 2003 336pp. 85 b/w + 300 colour illus. Published in association with the Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10183-6 £35.00* Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture 2005 400pp. 400 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10925-2 £35.00* Glamour Candace Wheeler Fashion, Industrial Design, The Art and Enterprise of American Architecture Design, 1875–1900 Edited by Joseph Rosa Amelia Peck and Carol Irish Published with the San Francisco Published in association with Museum of Modern Art The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2004 192pp. 25 b/w + 290 colour illus. 2001 288pp. 102 b/w + 86 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10640-4 £25.00* Hb ISBN 978-0-300-09081-9 £17.95* Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 2 fashionhistory The Corset Grace Kelly A Cultural History Icon of Style to Royal Bride Valerie Steele H. Kristina Haugland 2001 208pp. 110 b/w + 30 colour illus. Published with the Pb ISBN 978-0-300-09953-9 £15.00* Philadelphia Museum of Art 2006 80pp. 40 b/w + 20 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-11644-1 £12.99* Fifty Years of Fashion Goddess New Look to Now The Classical Mode Valerie Steele Harold Koda 2000 176pp. 50 b/w + 100 colour illus. Published in association with Pb ISBN 978-0-300-08738-3 £14.00* The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2003 224pp. 28 b/w + 85 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-09882-2 £25.00* Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 3 fashionhistory Plumes Dangerous Liaisons Ostrich Feathers, Jews, Fashion and Furniture in and a Lost World of the Eighteenth Century Global Commerce Harold Koda, Andrew Bolton Sarah Abrevaya Stein and Daniëlle Kisluk-Grosheide January 2009 224pp.