EYE: Partying with ▲ RETAIL: Chanel, page 4. Analyzing ▲ FASHION: Wal-Mart’s Donatella China sourcing talks New initiative, NEWS: Leslie York and page 13. Wexner is “feeling politics, good” despite the ▲ page 8. economy, page 5. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 23, 2008 • $2.00 Sportswear Flight of Fancy When it comes to bridal, romance is always in style. Take, for example, this Carolina Herrera gown in silk habotai with swirls cascading from the hip and over one shoulder — a look that is as effortless as it is dreamy. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Palin’s Fashion-Gate: A Big Boost for Style, But Not for the GOP By WWD Staff At least someone is shopping: the Republicans and Sarah Palin. Given the beleaguered state of American retailing in the downward spiraling economy, stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York and Macy’s no doubt welcomed the Republican National Committee’s shopping spree on behalf of Palin with open arms. In some cases, it may even have helped goose their September same-store sales. And in this day and age, anything that boosts the profile of fashion and retailing can only be a good thing. Not that one would know it from the furor Palin’s wardrobe, hair and makeup created on Wednesday — even if the result has turned her into a politician admired for her style and See Palin’s, Page9 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION Designers went in several directions for spring, ™ 6 and the best gowns had special details such as A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based crystal beading, fl ower corsages or prints. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 Sarah Palin went on a shopping spree at stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, SHIFTING TO NEUTRAL: Barneys New York and Macy’s. Lighter Colors and Weights Broaden the Sweater Season 3 Gucci Group has been pulled into Italy’s “spy stories,” stemming from an investigation of illicit A woman stands mulling which sweater to buy: a She said the store carries a wide range of cotton access to the Ministry of Interior’s data bank. heavyweight pullover with an autumn leaf pattern, blended sweaters, including short cropped versions 3 SoCa, St. John’s new contemporary line targeting or a short-sleeve lightweight model with a more from Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent. “There’s a younger customer, launches its fi rst freestand- neutral tone. She is already hesitant to open her a little metallic in them, so they’re good to put over ing store today in South Coast Plaza. wallet. She goes with the piece that could very well a dress. Other sweaters can be belted. You can layer carry her into spring. them…there are a lot of options 3 American Eagle Outfi tters starts selling children’s Michael Stars founder Michael for transitioning from season to wear today with the launch of 77kids.com, joining Cohen understands the mentality. season,” Knell says. an increasingly crowded market. EYE: Resembling a UFO from Planet Chanel, the “In today’s economy, consumers Belk’s newest models include ▲ 4 are looking for ways to minimize a lattice, cable yoke sweater from Zaha Hadid-designed Chanel Mobile Art exhibit spending on a whole new Kim Rogers’ Signature, and a faux opened with a massive party in Central Park. wardrobe,” Cohen says, adding fur, belted crochet cardigan from 8 Brides might scale back on their guest lists and that his company’s styles can help Karen Kane. forego the goody bags, but designers are still on that front. “You can pair an “The Karen Kane sweater banking on them to splurge on wedding gowns. open, shawl cardigan with a tank, just hit, and we’re still waiting shorts and gladiator sandals in for customer reaction. Overall, 8 Since landing in New York late Saturday, Donatella the summer and come fall you consumers are reacting to fashion Versace’s schedule has been so jam-packed she can throw it on with a turtleneck, and to novelty, and have been hasn’t had time to sense economic jitters. skinny jeans and boots, making the especially partial to cardigans in a 13 Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s new plan to step up look completely new and fresh.” variety of shapes,” says Goldstein. Christina Ricci in environmental and social compliance standards Nearly 40% of women are “They’re loving the Kim Rogers Versace Atelier. in China hit a fashion industry nerve. spending less on clothing for Signature lattice yoke sweater. themselves compared to last year, Texture has been an important Classifi ed Advertisements...........................................................................................14-15 according to Cotton Incorporated’s “In general, seasonless yarns influence this year.” TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Lifestyle Monitor™. With and fabrications like cotton and Left on Houston, the [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. grocery and gas prices up, and cotton blends are a plus. She Vancouver-based women’s knit WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 the Dow down, it is no surprise. can wear it now and later.” label, differentiates fall from spring FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Additionally, 82% of female VOLUME 196, NO. 86. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with — Arlene Goldstein with a slightly brighter palette one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and Monitor respondents say they feel Belk Inc. and more lightweight pieces November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division that, in general, clothing prices for early ‘09, although its brand of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. have increased since last year. spokesperson says the pieces could Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice If women believe they can wear a garment beyond be worn in either season. President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post the coldest three weeks of January, they might be “It would seem that consumers are looking for Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B more amenable to making the purchase. Lighter versatility, flexibility and perhaps to move away from 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA weights, short-sleeves, even sleeveless sweaters that a traditional way of thinking around what can and 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. can be worn with a layer underneath, make sense can’t be worn during our seasons.” Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed in this era of warmer climates where the average Left on Houston uses cotton blends in about 80% within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S American goes sans jacket until nearly Halloween. of its fall styles and 60% of its spring collections. “In WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the Add to that temperature-regulated, home-car-work addition to cotton being breathable, versatile and World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened conditions, and these newest of knits simply make durable, when mixed with luxurious yarns such as companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call more sense. cashmere, cotton decreases 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY Sweaters remain a popular pilling and also cost.” OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, item for women, who own Did you spend more, the same, or less Two top cotton-blend PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, an average of 8 sweaters money than last year on the following models for fall include an PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS items (2008 vs. 2007)? SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND each. While 8.3% of women ivory short-sleeve funnel OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. surveyed say they purchased Clothes Gasoline Groceries neck piece with two rows at least one sweater in the More 38.6% 89.3% 78.9% of buttons up the front, past month,25% state that Less 39.3% 2.9% 10.4% and a long-sleeve but DAILY they plan to purchase one in Same 20.5% 1.6% 5.5% short-waisted sweater with You might challenge the coming month.